Benzak Denim Developers BDD-006 SP1 ALT BP Denim

It’s all about the details. Nobody knows that better than Benzak Denim Developers, a Holland-based company that combines Dutch design and American tradition with Japanese craftsmanship. BDD gives painstaking consideration to every stitch, hem, and pocket that leaves its Okayama factory—home of the Japan Blue Denim Group, the company responsible for some of the world’s most sought-after jeans. And this pair, available exclusively on Massdrop, is held to this exacting standard.

Dubbed the BDD-006 Special #1 ALT BP x Massdrop, these jeans combine elements from two different models. They feature the 14-ounce Japanese selvage denim of the BDD-006 cut in the pattern of the BDD-016, with tapered legs and slightly smaller back pockets. Made at Collect Mills in Kojima, Japan, the denim is a low-tension right-hand twill with a yellow and green selvage color ID. This represents the first stages of indigo, before it becomes the distinctive dark blue color. At 14 ounces, it’s an ideal midweight denim whose slightly looser construction allows for an uneven weaving pattern and small slubs. Expect minimal shrinkage after the first wash, as these jeans are sanforized, essentially meaning they're pre-shrunk.

Each pair is fitted with a coin pocket styled after the classic Lee coin pocket. Opposite the coin pocket is a sixth pocket, which is obscured when the jeans are worn with a belt. Turn the 006s around to find a goat leather patch with a lasered bull logo, BDD’s indicator for its low-tension fabric. Beneath the patch, two asymmetrical back pockets are fully lined with 12-ounce chambray. And the seams? Similar to vintage jeans, the bottom part of the waistband features a chain stitch from end to end, while the inseam combines overlock and lap stitching for equal parts durability and looks.