Benzak Denim Developers BDD-710 14.7oz Denim

It’s all about the details. Nobody knows that better than Benzak Denim Developers, a Holland-based company combining Dutch design and American tradition with Japanese craftsmanship. BDD gives painstaking consideration to every stitch, hem, and pocket that leaves its Okayama factory, home of the Japan Blue Denim Group—the company responsible for some of the world’s most sought-after jeans. And the BDD-710s—based on Levi’s 1967 505 jeans, with their regular fit and tapered legs—are held to this exacting standard.

The BDD-710s begin with green-cast denim, specifically a 14.7-ounce left-hand-twill denim made at Collect, in Kojima, from Zimbabwe cotton. Based on vintage deadstock denim, the green cast becomes more pronounced with each wear and wash (see photo above). And thanks to the left-hand twill—a style of weaving in which the grain runs from top left to bottom right—the jeans will soften with time without degrading the heavy feel of the denim. Expect minimal shrinkage after the first wash, as these jeans are sanforized, essentially meaning they're pre-shrunk.

Each pair of BDD-710s is fitted with a coin pocket styled after the classic Wrangler coin pocket. Opposite the coin pocket is a sixth pocket, which is obscured when the jeans are worn with a belt. Turn the 710s around to find an embossed BDD patch made from Italian-sourced, vegetable-tanned cowhide. Beneath the patch, two asymmetrical back pockets are fully lined with 12-ounce chambray. And the seams? Similar to vintage jeans, the bottom part of the waistband features a chain stitch from end to end, while the inseam combines overlock and lap stitching for equal parts durability and looks. The jeans are also made with three different colors of yarn, lending the 710s a touch of aesthetic depth.