Datamancer Infinity Ergodox Hardwood Case Discussions | Drop

Oct 24, 2016

Has the form factor for this drop changed since the last one this summer?

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YanboWu

8490

Collaborations

Oct 24, 2016

dr_decibelYep, they made a full hand version available as well.

Oct 24, 2016

YanboWuThanks Yanbo! Follow up question: I purchased one from the drop in the summer, but it doesn't appear to fit the latest USB C kit. Can you confirm that this one will work on the latest ergodox drop that shipped in Sept?

jflans

Oct 25, 2016

dr_decibelThis is the crucial question for me as well...

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atetoomuchglue

Oct 25, 2016

dr_decibelSame here!

OverKill

517

Input Club

Oct 25, 2016

dr_decibelWhat doesn't fit exactly? the USB Type C upgrade is in no way related to the full hand. Can you provide pictures?

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Oct 26, 2016

dr_decibelIt should fit! Every case was tested pretty heavily before we shipped them out. What part isn't fitting?

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Oct 26, 2016

atetoomuchglueWhat part of it doesn't fit? It should be entirely compatible with the latest Infinity Ergodox.

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atetoomuchglue

Oct 26, 2016

dr_decibelWe're just trying to confirm that the case will fit the Ergodox Infinity that shipped in September before we order. Sounds like it will?

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Oct 26, 2016

DatamancerI'll clarify: I have a case from the drop over the summer and an ergodox from the batch that went out last month.
To install, I've tried placing the plate/pcb into the top section of the case, then laying the bottom section over it, and inserting the screws. However, when I apply the screws, they cannot grip the holes inside the case. The bottom of the case does not lay flush if you look at it from the side (it's a few mm raised).
I read some comments that implied that the case design for the usb type c ergodoxes changed. I took that to mean that the datamancer cases were compatible with old ergos, but not the latest usb type c's. That's why I asked about the form factor changing for this drop - I was curious if this run had changed to accommodate the lastest ergos.
I can post pictures tomorrow if it would help you. I would love to be wrong and implement this pretty case!

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Oct 26, 2016

dr_decibelYeah pictures will help, but as far as I know the case really should function with any of the Infinity Ergodox revs, so something is probably wrong. Can you post a picture of the bottom of your PCBs as well?

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Oct 26, 2016

atetoomuchglueYes it definitely will.

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Oct 26, 2016

DatamancerAttaching pics.

FWIW, I have 2 ergos and have tried this with 2 boards getting the same result. If I apply a little pressure to one side it seems to raise/pivot on top of the circuits near the thumb cluster. If you want more pics just let me know. Ty for the assistance!

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Oct 27, 2016

dr_decibelHmm, you definitely have an Ergodox that should work with the case. It's a bit hard to tell from the pictures, but I think I can see something that might fix the problem; it looks like some of your switches are not sunk all the way into the PCB. I know that when I soldered together our test keyboards, I ran into the same issue, but ultimately was able to get them pushed closer together. If you can, try to re-seat the switches and PCB so that the plate and PCB have a smaller gap between them. (It's probably a good idea anyways since you might have some contacts that are barely touching. If that doesn't work, go ahead and email me at marketing@datamancer.com and I will see what I can do about it!

Oct 28, 2016

dr_decibel @Datamancer I've run into this as well. While assembling my USB-C Infinity ErgoDox I tried to keep my solder spots as low as possible but I definitely have to push a bit harder than I'd care to in order to get the small screws into the back of the case. I was able to get it assembled, but the "SIP socket mod" I performed had some of the switches popping out of the plate after I fully assembled it. I think I would have trouble even without the SIP sockets though, as they only stick through a small amount from the back of the PCB.

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Oct 28, 2016

Datamancer @Datamancer I've been able to confirm that all of the switches are mounted correctly. In the process though, I was able to ascertain the issue - SIP Sockets. I used them on both of my builds, and the stems stick up a few mm from the board - approx the same height as the chips near the thumb cluster. This wasn't an issue with the vanilla case because it has a uniform depth. However the socket points touch the wood, which explain why it's raised.
I'm brainstorming ways to work around this. I could use longer screws, but the two halves would not be touching. I don't know if this is a bad idea structurally. Also, I could use one acryllic layer as a buffer. This would widen the distance between the two sections, but would add more support. This would also required longer screws. Any thoughts? I'd love your input. If you'd rather move to email let me know. I wanted to post this reply here for anyone else who's used sip sockets.
Thanks!

Oct 31, 2016

dr_decibelHey sorry it took me a bit to respond. Do the sip sockets add space between the PCB and plate? If they don't, then your case should work without any problems. I added some thickness to the design of the case for the next batch, so it's possible sending you a case from the new batch might help. From the pictures you provided it seems like the base is sticking out too much for that to help. Longer screws would probably let you assemble the case but doesn't solve the problem of the base sticking out. Let me know, here or email works fine, I just check email more often. Another question: Does the bottom sink into the top cover of the case without the keyboard in it, or does it sit flush? It should sink into the top cover when there is no keyboard in it.

Nov 2, 2016

dr_decibel @dr_decibel Are your SIP sockets soldered in such a way that you could clip off a portion of the length to get the case assembled? I'm in the same boat and not relishing the thought of clipping 2x pins per switch, but since I've soldered all the switches but not the SIP sockets themselves I could probably do it. I managed to partially pop out a few of my switches while assembling due to the length of the SIP pins sticking out the back of the board and pushing hard on the Datamancer back.

Nov 2, 2016

Datamancer @Datamancer All good! Sorry for my own delay getting back to you. The SIP sockets do not add space between the PCB and plate. They do stick out below the PCB in the same manner as the chips in the thumb cluster. This additional height underneath the PCB prevents the case from closing fully. But the distance between the PCB and the plate is no different. I will take some pics of the sips up close.
I checked the case without the keyboard, and it sinks in a few mm. So it's (I believe) working as expected. Does the new batch have a uniform bottom, or is it cut out similar to the current set up? I'd definitely be interested in joining the current drop if it fits with sips. Cheers!

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Nov 2, 2016

dragon788 @dragon788 Debated this but there are a few issues. The biggest is the tedium of clipping a couple of mm off of a tiny socket roughly 150 times. I'm not even sure what tool would be appropriate for the job. The bigger issue would be cutting a hole in the bottom of the SIP. This would allow solder to leak in when you attach them, which could potentially fill the socket preventing an LED from sitting properly. Second, cutting a hole would compromise the structure of the tiny socket, making it more prone to tearing/cracking. In theory, you could pinch the bottom of the cut socket. Obviously this adds a whole other level to the process...
I think the proper approach is to make the case work with sockets, not make the sockets work with the case.

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Nov 2, 2016

dr_decibelI think you'd only want to clip the leg and not the socket side. I got these, https://zealpc.net/collections/accessories/products/sipsockets and since they are "long leg" I'm thinking there probably exist short leg versions, the challenge is making sure you have enough sticking through the board to actually hit with solder.
I definitely agree having a different back plate with more room for the SIP legs since they aren't much different in height than the thumb cluster chips makes a lot more sense as long as it doesn't cause severe weakness in the back plate (flex/cracking/etc).

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Nov 2, 2016

dr_decibelIf you can get me some measurements I could tell you if the newest iteration (with a taller back) will work with the sip sockets. I'll need a few dimensions: Distance from top of plate to bottom of PCB(not including solder), Height of sip socket legs, distance between plate and PCB, height from lowest point to top of plate. Also if you could take a close up picture of the area between the plate and PCB that will help. If I can make it work with, I will send you out a case with this batch!

Nov 2, 2016

dragon788I'll ask you the same thing I just asked Dr_Decibel. If I can get it to work I will send out a case with this batch.

Nov 4, 2016

Datamancer @Datamancer Wow! Ty! I will grab dimensions this weekend and reply on here with some pics. I'll need to swing by a hardware store and grab a ruler with millimeter units that are legible. Expect a response soon, happy friday and thanks again!

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Nov 13, 2016

dr_decibelIf I can find my digital micrometer I'll post my measurements as well.

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