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Trending Posts in Mechanical Keyboards
Robbedoes
*Help* Screw in stabilizers not fitting in Dropshift V2 keyboard
I'm trying to build a mechanical keyboard with screw in stabilizers, I've build some mechanical keyboards with click-in stabilizers, never with screw in. Somehow one of the pins of the metal top-part collides with the screw in stabilizer of the numpad "enter key". I already tried grinding of a bit of the pin that collides with the stabilizer, but unfortunately I can't make it fit/close properly. You can see that the pin of the toppart leaves a mark on the bottompart of the stabilizer, see picture 2. What am I missing? Using Durock V2 in a Dropshift fullsize V2. See pictures below, thanks in advance!
Apr 23, 2024
Fukyachickennuggets
Polymer clay
Don't drop crazy cash on custom wood builds! Instead go buy polymer clay and paint. Then you can spend a ridiculous amount of time trying to make it look like you can afford to drop crazy cash on...
Apr 22, 2024
GrEEdYY
HELP PLEASE!
HELP PLEASE! I put noise insulation in the keyboard and after that it stopped working, the only sign of life is 5 blinks of orange light.can do something about it? model:DROP ALTv1
Apr 22, 2024
Durazell
Want to build a Clicky Mech Keyboard. Where to begin?
Hello all. Am brand new to the idea of building my own keyboard. Have not a clue where to begin this process. I am a Sim Game enthusiast. American Truck Sim, DCS Flight Sim and goes from there. Need some real help on where to start for making my own Full Size, Clickey Mechanical KB. I want each key to have its own backlighting. Are there keys that are better than others for this? Is there a great spot on site for a person who has never even taken a keyboard apart? Let alone fixed or built one? I would like it to fit my theme of Red and Black. Yet maybe have the option of changing things up a bit. Any help at all would be greatly appreciated. Thank you all kindly, Durazell
Apr 20, 2024
CaptainYoghurt
Does the ALT v2 PCBA support USB-C e-marked cables?
Currently my ALT v1 does not work with e-marked USB-C cables. I was wondering if the v2 PCBA does support these types of cables (thunderbolt 4 cable for example)?
Apr 20, 2024
AiheyStudio
Favorite Artisans
Dragon Pillar Artisan Keycaps Creative Resin Keycaps for 6.25u and 7u Space Bars
Discover the allure of our Dragon Pillar Artisan Keycaps – unique resin keycaps designed to adorn your 6.25u and 7u space bars. Crafted with creativity and precision, each keycap features an...
Apr 18, 2024
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• Tenkeyless 87-key ANSI layout • Outemu blue switches • Aluminum top plate (silver) with white plastic body • White backlighting • White doubleshot ABS keycaps (OEM profile) • 21-key rollover with USB, N-key rollover with PS/2 (converter not included) • Standard bottom row layout, ideal for replacing keycaps unlike the Razer Blackwidow or Corsair Strafe Pros:
• Sufficiently solid build quality. I tried twisting the keyboard with both hands but couldn't make it flex. • Simple and clean rectangular design, does not have weird corners & edges like the Redragon K6 and is not obnoxiously branded like the Armageddon MKA-3. • Aluminum top plate has a nice brushed finish and reflects the backlight well. It's a pleasure to use in the dark. • ABS keycaps are grippier compared to Razer's or Corsair's soft-touch satin caps. They don't trap fingerprints either. • 9 different lighting modes (scanning, breathing, reactive), plus 8 preset backlight modes, plus another 2 slots for user presets. That's a lot. • Remembers your last-used lighting preset/mode upon restart. • Beginner-friendly and quite easy to use. Just plug and play, no need to mess around with software. Cons:
• Non-detachable USB cord. • Ugly keycap legends. • The LEDs on my F9 & F11 keys are slightly dimmer than the other LEDs. Seems like a quality control issue. • Some of the backlight presets are redundant. • The stabilizers used are really horrible and prevent the Backspace, Enter, RShift, LShift and Spacebar keys from bottoming out properly. In other words, the key travel is somewhat shortened and ends in a muffled thunk instead of a clack. I will look into getting the stabs clipped, but 2mm O-rings should help for the short term (so all the keys will at least feel consistent). • Some might feel that the asking price is quite high given that other backlit Chinese mechanical keyboards of similar quality can be found on Taobao or Alibaba for below $50. Outemu Blue Switches:
• The Outemu blue switches here are made in China and have a nice transparent top housing. • They have a noticeably louder click than Cherry's blues. This is a definite plus for me, but other people might dislike it. • The pitch of the click (in the musical sense) seems lower than Cherry's blues. • They seem to have a higher click/actuation point than Cherry's blues, although I am not 100% sure about this observation. • If you place your finger on a key and gently rock it from side to side, you'd notice the stem wobbling more compared to a stock Cherry switch. This is a good example of how German manufacturing still reigns superior. Anyway, the flaw can be rectified by stickering the switches, but it might not be worth the effort given the entry-level position of the product. • On a positive note, I did not notice any inconsistencies in terms of switch feel across the keyboard. Conclusions:
• This E-Element TKL board would be a great choice for beginners looking for their first mech, assuming they do not have the budget for a Filco or Rapid-i. • Experienced users looking for a cheap secondary/backup keyboard might want to consider this as well, especially if you manage to find a used unit for under $50. In fact, there's one on Reddit right now for $45. • Having said that, I cannot get used to the poor stabilizers which are affecting my typing rhythm. It's just like driving at 90km/h and encountering a speed bump - not only does your WPM drop, you lose concentration as well. I intend to get this sorted out ASAP.