Click to view our Accessibility Statement or contact us with accessibility-related questions
PRODUCTS YOU MAY LIKE
Trending Posts in Mechanical Keyboards
dvorcol
Support for Alternative Layouts
This is a summary of how alternative layouts have been supported by kits such as Colevrak and Homing. It is not a discussion of alt layout performance and development, but if that interests you I highly recommend starting with Pascal Getreuer’s A guide to alt keyboard layouts (why, how, which one?). It’s a concise and comprehensive overview with links to some great sites that go deeper. He also has a separate Links about keyboards page. The Keyboard layouts doc he recommends explains layout goals and metrics in detail, summarizing the alt layouts discussed here as well as more than one hundred others. Sculpted-profile The majority of custom keycap sets are sculpted-profile (Cherry, SA, MT3, KAT, etc. - more on profiles generally here) so let’s start there. Because each row has a unique keycap shape, alt layouts require a unique keycap for each legend that moves off its QWERTY row. At first there were two The Dvorak layout was patented in 1936 by August Dvorak & William L....
Apr 23, 2024
CousinTimmy
Promo codes for stack Macropad v2
is there any promo codes right now that work with the STACK OVERFLOW THE KEY V2 MACROPAD? link:https://drop.com/buy/stack-overflow-the-key-v2-macropad?searchId=ead314359856d5486d35f4713cff32e9
Apr 23, 2024
Robbedoes
*Help* Screw in stabilizers not fitting in Dropshift V2 keyboard
I'm trying to build a mechanical keyboard with screw in stabilizers, I've build some mechanical keyboards with click-in stabilizers, never with screw in. Somehow one of the pins of the metal top-part collides with the screw in stabilizer of the numpad "enter key". I already tried grinding of a bit of the pin that collides with the stabilizer, but unfortunately I can't make it fit/close properly. You can see that the pin of the toppart leaves a mark on the bottompart of the stabilizer, see picture 2. What am I missing? Using Durock V2 in a Dropshift fullsize V2. See pictures below, thanks in advance!
Apr 23, 2024
Fukyachickennuggets
Polymer clay
Don't drop crazy cash on custom wood builds! Instead go buy polymer clay and paint. Then you can spend a ridiculous amount of time trying to make it look like you can afford to drop crazy cash on...
Apr 22, 2024
GrEEdYY
HELP PLEASE!
HELP PLEASE! I put noise insulation in the keyboard and after that it stopped working, the only sign of life is 5 blinks of orange light.can do something about it? model:DROP ALTv1
Apr 22, 2024
Durazell
Want to build a Clicky Mech Keyboard. Where to begin?
Hello all. Am brand new to the idea of building my own keyboard. Have not a clue where to begin this process. I am a Sim Game enthusiast. American Truck Sim, DCS Flight Sim and goes from there. Need some real help on where to start for making my own Full Size, Clickey Mechanical KB. I want each key to have its own backlighting. Are there keys that are better than others for this? Is there a great spot on site for a person who has never even taken a keyboard apart? Let alone fixed or built one? I would like it to fit my theme of Red and Black. Yet maybe have the option of changing things up a bit. Any help at all would be greatly appreciated. Thank you all kindly, Durazell
Apr 20, 2024
Drop Refurbished
Like-new products you can trustDrop Rewards
Get $5 for every 500 points you earn! Learn more
Drop Keyboard Club
Become a member and expand your keycap collectionCollaborate With Us
For Brands & DesignersFollow Drop
If you have a multimeter (you probably should; you can get a cheap one for $25 and they come in handy for all kinds of things), it's useful to check your diode connections as you make them (after I finished a row, I flipped the PCB over and checked the pads on the opposite side)
A few things about how Massdrop is awesome: spare parts AND the Teensy riser was already soldered on! I got what looks like 2 dozen extra diodes, 2 or 3 extra resistors, 1 extra ceramic capacitor, at least 1 extra LED (I forget if it was 1 or 2), 2 extra Cherry switches, and 1 extra keycap!
I'll be keeping these spares in a little baggy in case I need to fix something in the future.
The most frustrating part was actually cutting the USB cable open with an Xacto knife. Took forever, and I'm actually surprised that I didn't cut myself, since I was tired by that point.
As one YouTube comment points out, you don't HAVE to strip the USB wires before feeding them through the holes in the PCB. You can feed them in with their covers and then solder away, which should melt away the plastic in the process. HOWEVER, I'm not sure if this is "good form" or if it makes the solder joints less likely to work properly (i.e. potentially having bits of melted plastic somewhere in the joint). All I can tell you is that I used "extra" solder to account for this possibility, and it worked first try.
One last word on the Ergodox (since this is turning into a blog post): it takes some getting used to. At least for me, the vertically aligned keys felt very weird. I usually type at 80 WPM and clocked myself at 25 the first time I tried typing on the Ergodox. You get used to it pretty quickly, so don't get too frustrated at first.
Many thanks to Massdrop for the great work and for having patience with a lot of us picky, discriminating technology dorks. I feel like if you can provide good customer service for this demographic (and in my mind you have), you're probably prepared for any other customers you pick up in the future.