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Showing 1 of 38 conversations about:
Cloaca
1906
Dec 14, 2017
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At this price, these would seem to validate the rumor that Glycine makes some of their stuff in China and only supplies Swiss-made rotors in order to meet the 60 percent Swiss Made standard.
Maltman
102
Dec 15, 2017
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CloacaDo you think that has been happening since the Invicta takeover?
Cloaca
1906
Dec 15, 2017
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MaltmanNo, this was written a year and a half before that:
http://www.asian-watches.com/2015/02/the-great-chinese-swiss-watch-paradox.html
And it's not just Glycine, although Glycine is specifically named in the post.
http://www.asian-watches.com/2015/02/the-great-chinese-swiss-watch-paradox.html
And it's not just Glycine, although Glycine is specifically named in the post.
Maltman
102
Dec 15, 2017
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CloacaYikes. I had no idea. That is some very interesting reading. Many thanks.
CMSgt_Bo
16
Feb 17, 2018
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CloacaThe standards for 'Swissness' have become substantially tougher starting January 2017. See here: https://www.ablogtowatch.com/watches-swiss-made-2017/
The article you cite has some obvious errors. One of those errors applies to your comment regarding rotors. The author states: "The movement to the right above (made with high quality components) would cost you $50 and it's manufactured in China. The engraved rotor in the photo to the left costs about $25 made in Switzerland. The single part - the engraved rotor equals 50% of the parts of the watch movement."
I guess math is hard; when a $25 rotor is added to a $50 movement the combined value of the movement is $75...that makes the ébauche worth roughly 66% of the movements value and the rotor only 33%. The problem is the 'Swissness' goes beyond movement value. For a watch to be considered Swiss made at least 60% of the production costs of a watch taken as a whole must be Swiss-based. The movement must contain at least 50% Swiss-made components in value (not in quantity) and at least 60% of the movement's production must be generated in Switzerland. And last but not least, the technical development of a "Swiss Made" watch and movement must be carried out in Switzerland.
The article you cite has some obvious errors. One of those errors applies to your comment regarding rotors. The author states: "The movement to the right above (made with high quality components) would cost you $50 and it's manufactured in China. The engraved rotor in the photo to the left costs about $25 made in Switzerland. The single part - the engraved rotor equals 50% of the parts of the watch movement."
I guess math is hard; when a $25 rotor is added to a $50 movement the combined value of the movement is $75...that makes the ébauche worth roughly 66% of the movements value and the rotor only 33%. The problem is the 'Swissness' goes beyond movement value. For a watch to be considered Swiss made at least 60% of the production costs of a watch taken as a whole must be Swiss-based. The movement must contain at least 50% Swiss-made components in value (not in quantity) and at least 60% of the movement's production must be generated in Switzerland. And last but not least, the technical development of a "Swiss Made" watch and movement must be carried out in Switzerland.
Cloaca
1906
Feb 18, 2018
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CMSgt_BoThe effect of the 2017 is hard to determine for people outside of the Swiss watch industry. Publicly the watch industry is portraying it as toughening of standards, but here is some indication that high-end watchmakers think that they were bamboozled, by the majority of the industry that wants to make watches in China.
The percentage was raised from 50 percent to 60 percent and was applied not only to the movement, but also to the cased movement, which would discourage the used of Chinese cases, since to compensate, the movement would need to have more Swiss value. But at the same time the law allowed R&D and certification costs to be added to the value of the watch. How much are these? Is certification only for things like chronometers or for any watch? And R&D seems especially vulnerable to abuse.
Also, large watches like Glycine's Combat Sub Aquarius do not fall within the definition of a watch at all under the law due to a thickness exceeding 14 mm. This would mean, for instance, that the Oris men's depth gauge diver watches recently dropped here do not have to comply with the law. I don't know if this means that such watches can use SWISS MADE at will, without complying with the law's standards, but both the Glycine and the Oris do say SWISS MADE on the dial.
The percentage was raised from 50 percent to 60 percent and was applied not only to the movement, but also to the cased movement, which would discourage the used of Chinese cases, since to compensate, the movement would need to have more Swiss value. But at the same time the law allowed R&D and certification costs to be added to the value of the watch. How much are these? Is certification only for things like chronometers or for any watch? And R&D seems especially vulnerable to abuse.
Also, large watches like Glycine's Combat Sub Aquarius do not fall within the definition of a watch at all under the law due to a thickness exceeding 14 mm. This would mean, for instance, that the Oris men's depth gauge diver watches recently dropped here do not have to comply with the law. I don't know if this means that such watches can use SWISS MADE at will, without complying with the law's standards, but both the Glycine and the Oris do say SWISS MADE on the dial.
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