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socoolithurts
6
Mar 10, 2015
Here is my short review:
The bad: I was shorted 3 switches.(I paid someone in Europe to ship me keys) mass drop said they would ship me them. But I don't want to wait for several more weeks.
Getting keycaps on and off the matias switches is hard. I broke a switch apart trying to get a key cap off.
Also, pretty much no key cap sets for matias switches.
Overall, the quality isn't that good for the price. If I were to do it again I'd just buy something pre-made with cherry switches.
They i key stops working for some reason and I seem to get into weird function/command modes I can't get out of. It's annoying. I'll try updating the firmware or something.
Also, the usb port is too high and I have to push the port down with the cable to get it in. Or else the top of the opening in the rear of the case blocks it. So, I'll have to modify the cable or the opening to prevent the usb connector from bending.
Why not micro-usb? Mini usb is poorly engineered, which is why they made micro-usb.
No rubber feet on the base. No Carrying case.
The Good:
The aluminum housing thing is nice. Keycaps have a nice feel.
Overall: For the price and multi-month wait, get something pre-made.
Sigmoid
15
Mar 10, 2015
socoolithurtsI think you might be overly malicious. Blaming tight keycaps on the kit's manufacturer is kind of uncalled for.
I sure haven't seen any 60% keyboards that came even close for $100 plus keycaps - all tend to fall short in either flexibility, layout, keycaps, price, etc. I really appreciate the openness and the elegance of this project, the former of which is unparalleled, the latter matched only by the HHKB for three times the price. :)
The "weird command mode" stuff, you obviously haven't read the documentation...
As for the USB port, I agree that mini-USB is a bad decision. I'll look around on Mouser, it shouldn't be too hard to replace the connector with a Micro-B one with comparable footprint. (HaaTa, if this drop isn't manufactured yet, you could look into Micro-B ports that fit on the PCB. Mini has been de-certified.)
About the bending part, that means it "almost" fits. I guess it might be a good idea to plug the cable in during assembly, and solder the PCB on that way... that would make sure it sits so the USB port is accessible. This sort of thing is regular practice in soldering stuff together.
Overall, I guess it might not be what you're looking for, doesn't mean it's bad.
socoolithurtsFYI the plate (both the bent and the flat plate) are stainless steel not aluminum
HaaTa
558
Input Club
Mar 10, 2015
SigmoidSo, we used mini-b usb because it has a lot better strain relief than micro-b usb does (i've destroyed a Matias keyboard due to it being yanked by the cable, and I'm not sure I can fix it with out a reflow oven). Not that I expect people to accidentally pull the keyboard off the couch after tripping over the cable, but it happens :P It's a little tight to change the connector now (unless everyone wants to wait over 8 weeks again). But I may be open to changing it in the future with something that is easy to replace by hand.
Another thing, I'm eying the availability of Type C connectors quite closely.
The tight keycaps...yep. I've broken some of them. Trying to get SP to loosen them for this drop.
SuperBobKing
145
Mar 10, 2015
HaaTaI know that in an FAQ somewhere on SP's site, they mention that DSA keycaps fit tightly because the profile was designed for use in industrial environments and needed to be able to withstand drops from a certain height without coming off. Though that doesn't explain why the alps keycaps fit tighter than cherry.
If you are feeling brave you could try sanding off a very small amount of the stem, since it is rectangular. Just be very careful not to take off too much.
Sigmoid
15
Mar 10, 2015
HaaTaWell, if the Mini-B connectors are the result of extensive research, then I have nothing against it on principle. It's strange though that you had such bad experiences with Micros - they say one of the design goals for the Micro-B was to make sure the device doesn't bear as much burden from the connector as in the Mini-B.
anchelus
2
Mar 11, 2015
socoolithurtsAny idea where to buy the keycaps for matias switches? i was looking for pbt dsa as well but it doesn't fit with costar stabilizer. for some reason i only found smk stabilizer with those keycaps
Muffinbottoms
24
Mar 11, 2015
anchelusRight now Matias is doing a group buy for their 60% click/quiet/linear keyboard and it can potentially come with PBT should it reach a 1000 pre-orders. I'm assuming once this goes into production, PBT Matias caps will begin selling from either them or SP.
Kaan
297
Mar 11, 2015
Muffinbottomslink plx I heard many great things about the matias switches, yet the keycap unavailability is keeping me away, it would be great if massdrop started a diverse switch tester drop, if they are really what they say them to be, I'm sure the keycap availability will increase with increased usage too
Muffinbottoms
24
Mar 11, 2015
Kaanhttp://matias.ca/60/pc/ there you go good sir!
twiseburger
1
Mar 11, 2015
HaaTaDoing hardware and firmware I am always dealing with debug boards. As for SMD USB, Mini seems to stay on better than micro (someone always yanks the micro connectors off, always). That being said, we have decided to always now go with the through hole variations of the connectors (like UX60SC-MB-5S8).
socoolithurts
6
Mar 11, 2015
SigmoidNow that I've used the keyboard for a little bit, it's not as bad. The weird mode was function lock being triggered. The button seems really sensitive. I'm not sure I would have gone with it still for the wait and price. But.... I am going to have to cut the usb cable so it doesn't stress the port.
Kaan
297
Mar 11, 2015
MuffinbottomsWow, thanks, I have to say I really admire the logic and innovation of matias, they certainly deserve to be the next cherry
lucidlynx11
6
Mar 12, 2015
HaaTaFirst off, I'd like to say thanks for all of your informative responses & wonderful support you've provided thus far. I've read through every single post in this thread, as I'm pretty much obsessed with this keyboard & everything about it. However, I hadn't felt the need to actually post anything until I read this; this issue is extremely (& unusually) important to me. (Or, honestly, it just bugs the living hell out of me, as it's the only detail barring the infinity from complete perfection!)
Personally, I agree with sigmoid.. I can't stand the Mini-B USB; it's never used for anything by anyone anymore. I would really hate toting it around, as I have no other use for it.
I know that this late in the game, it's going to ship with the Mini-B's, no matter what. (& if that's not the case, PLEASE put me on the list for the Micro!) But would it be (reasonably) possible to replace the Mini-B with a Micro? More importantly, would it be possible to somehow upgrade the port to the Type C connector when it's finally available? I have been following the Type C closely as well. & if it's possible to upgrade it down the road... well, that would be the greatest news I've heard all year, as it's the only aspect that's making me consider holding out until the next drop.
Again, I really appreciate you & all of your work. I honestly believe this is the greatest keyboard ever - it's everything I've wanted in a keyboard since I first discovered the HHKB. & sorry for the melodramatic rant. I just had to give my $.02 in hopes that it could possibly influence the next Infinity - or maybe even this one. Regardless, I'll probably jump on both!
HaaTa
558
Input Club
Mar 12, 2015
lucidlynx11So, while tricky, it is possible to remove the Mini-B usb connector by hand. If someone can find a Micro-B connector with the same pinout, it might be possible. But, no promises on whether it will fit properly with any cases (this is the big reason why I don't want to change it this late).
As for Type C, that will require a new set of pads. There are 20 pins in a Type C connector. I don't have a timeline on this though. It depends on part availability.
lucidlynx11
6
Mar 12, 2015
HaaTaThanks for the prompt reply. That makes a lot of sense... I'd hate to screw with case compatibility. Now that I think about it, with Type C so close, I guess it doesn't matter whether it's Micro or Mini.
So for Type C, I know we have no way of knowing when they'll be readily available. But even if Type C components were suddenly available tomorrow, it would still be too late to use them, right?
I wouldn't mind installing a Type C by hand if it's possible. But, to be completely honest, I have no idea what that entails... In fact, I don't even know what you meant by a "new set of pads." Do you think there's a chance we could install that ourselves, when it comes out?
HaaTa
558
Input Club
Mar 12, 2015
lucidlynx11Basically, for Type C, the easiest would be a new pcb. Hand wiring something this small...I don't wish on anyone. As soon as I can reliably get the parts, I'll be adding them to keyboards.
Adding support for the connector on the pcb isn't too bad. Most of the work is about making sure there's capability with cases and such. With USB 2.0 it's not an issue, but with 3.0/3.1 there's also electrical things that have to be dealt with as well.
Kaan
297
Mar 12, 2015
lucidlynx11I didn't pay too much attention to connectivity, but after you pointed out, I would also much prefer micro over mini, micro seems very elegant and sturdy, whereas the mini seems old and extremely flimsy, as it doesn't have lockers
It's a good thing that pexon cables exist: http://pexonpcs.co.uk/collections/usb-cables/products/usb-cables I'm going to buy 3-4 mini/micro cables at one point, haven't decided on the colors yet, I'm guessing their "shrink" stands for a plastic enclosed cable, which lowers the profile, and would probably eliminate case issues like the one posted here (the person having to dremel the cable)
SuperBobKing
145
Mar 12, 2015
Kaan"Shrink" refers to heat shrink. Looking at the pictures it looks like it is just put on over the connector, which would make it slightly thicker. It may be possible to take off the plastic cover around the end of the cable and use heatshrink instead of it, but I have never taken one apart before so I don't know what the internal structure is like to know if using heat shrink would work, or if the plastic support is necessary.
Kaan
297
Mar 12, 2015
SuperBobKingmakes sense, on the large-side, it definitely lowers the profile, which is unimportant, it's clear from the pictures that the usb is naked with a shrink on it, yet on the mini/micro's, it's not clear from the pictures whether they shrink over the usb-plastic or not, but I'm guessing, in both cases, it should lower the profile
Sigmoid
15
Mar 12, 2015
KaanThey DO look significantly lower profile than any Mini-B cable I've seen before.
socoolithurts
6
Mar 16, 2015
SigmoidI had to cut most of the plastic around the connector on the top off to get it so it wasn't straining the plug.
Sigmoid
15
Mar 16, 2015
socoolithurtsI have a cable modding idea... it would seem most USB cables, mini and micro alike, are made on a single standard die-cast machinery, which results in those well-known knobby, ridiculously bulky grips.
Unless someone wants to hand-solder a Micro or Mini plug to a cable (a lot less fun than it sounds), here's my idea: let's take a factory-made, bonky cable, and shave the plastic off of it, getting as close to the bare metal as possible without damaging the cable itself.
Then take a heat shrink tube, and shrink it over the result, to give the cable a finished look as opposed to the "I let my pet rabbit run free, and left it on the ground" image.
kittykatmax
140
Mar 27, 2015
lucidlynx11Or you could just buy something like: StarTech.com Micro USB to Mini USB 2.0 Adapter F/M (UUSBMUSBFM). It's tiny and cheap.
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