Do I Need to Lube My Keyboard Switches?
Figure 1: Sometime around here is a good time to ask that question... If you’re new to the mechanical keyboard hobby, I have no doubt that planning your first keyboard build is a bit of a daunting task. To be entirely honest with you, it’s only a tiny bit less daunting for your second or even third keyboard builds should you stay around a little while longer. You’ve got the keyboard itself to worry about, stabilizers, keycaps, and even switches on top of all of the intangible marks you want your dream keyboard to hit. Switches are especially daunting right out of the gate as there’s just so many options out there to pick from – each with their own unique specifications, manufacturers, and more. Yet, in spite of all of these differences between switches, time and time again I find people always asking about lubing switches as one of their chief concerns when it comes to picking some up. With countless numbers of content creators talking about lubing switches, its no...
Apr 17, 2024
ready to go for when my PCB comes some day.
I would love to hear more about it / about the design/process
I also find the costar cutouts better aligned than the swillkb ones, did you align them yourself in the design? (Edit: from the switch cutouts, I'm guessing the entire plate design is custom too)
TMK firmware.
The design did actually vaguely start as a swillkb design but I decided to modify the cutouts as I was doing the Matias switches and that's cleaner + holds them more securely. At that point I just used it as a reference. The costar stabs fit nicely in those holes and it seems to work fine width-wise.
I'm waiting on the PCB and once I have that installed and tested I'm going to try to do a wood (probably walnut) center case - basically, imagine a piece of wood with about an 8mm border on the sides/back, top flush with the plate, and then functioning as a built in wrist rest in front, gently sloping, rounded edges, that jazz. We'll see if I can pull that off as I envision it, though - I have no wood working tools and even less knowledge of how to do shit with wood. Most likely I'll just try to find somebody who knows what they're doing and have them do it.
I will likely use the infinity's for 6 months and in the meantime work on a custom 75% layout myself, and I will likely handwire it too like the Cartesian Longboard did
Looks like my fomo is still at play, going to try sculptured SA keycaps in my next build, if anyone else is interested, the SA Retro only has 14h left: https://ctrlalt.io/buys/sa-retro
The center case seems to be the most challenging part, I might end up with GON-like clear acrylic myself, the wood seems very challenging - or I might just simplify things and throw my money to GON :) - For Cherry MX users, the MX-Mini is too attractive - the custom build costs will likely exceed the GON build anyway
Not that there is anything wrong with the infinity's - I wasn't using right shift, so replacing it with an arrow cluster worked out for me, now that it's gone I'm wondering whether I should've went for a 75% layout that had everything without any compromises Also not finding exact keycaps for my exact usage is bothering me a bit on some level
Anyway, I have 14 hours left to holster myself and settle on my infinities :)
There is only a 6.25 space bar so this will not work with the Hacker layout, only the standard Infinity layout.
For acrylic, I think there's a good number of web laser cutting shops if you don't have one local, as well.
I'm still not sure about DSA vs SA - the sculptured SA seems a bit better typing wise, DSA seems more prone to mis-typing On the other hand, DSA is more available blank-wise, also the non-sculptured nature of the keycaps allow mixing
I want 1.75/1.25 R4 blanks in TBN for my arrow cluster for example, It's unclear whether SP will be willing to mold them at an affordable price, still couldn't decide whether I'm going to join myself or not :)
For the middle/bottom part of a sandwich case, well, whatever you like the looks of works - doing that out of metal would be pretty heavy and probably fairly expensive.
Gonskeyboardworks offers plates that are premade, although they are meant for his inhouse keyboard, the NerD 60(He also has a universial plate, but it doesn't seem to be the same as an infinity plate): http://www.gonskeyboardworks.com/7-housings-and-related-parts
Perhaps the NerD's plate could be modified to fit the Infinity, I'd have to look more in depth. As of now I'm also considering 3d printing the plate from a 3d printer my buddy has, he put it together himself so I'm not sure how accurate it will be.
EDIT: I just sent Gonskeyboardworks a support ticket about the "universal" 60% plate, I'll post results after. It also happens to be much cheaper than any custom plate I could find, so that's a plus. Fingers crossed that it works with the infinity.
You can tell by the big gap in the Enter key. No place to clip anything on the right half.
Victor_L, my remaining clear'd drop shipped last week, yet it ships with UPS Surepost, it still hasn't arrived yet, the ground post takes extremely long, so if you're going to contact massdrop about the delayed matias's, it might make sense to urge them to use a faster post for yours
Here is my current progress: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=72183.0
With vvp's suggestion, I combined the advantages of 1.5mm plates and 5mm plates, this is practically impossible with laser cutting/cnc - the result is an extremely solid and hefty plate
Currently I'm experimenting with different materials/printer settings - I will likely end up using black PLA for all 3 parts and coat the parts with some matte acrylic spray coating to make them ghetto anti bacterial - this is the most practical solution (slicing the plate into 3 parts is to reduce the dimensions, however it also enables matching the color of the modifiers and alphas and get a 2-color plate thing going on :)
The reason I don't like PLA is that it shines too much, comparatively ABS is matte/cool - but I'm guessing with a bit of post-processing I can improve the looks of the PLA
IEATPOLES, I made them 1.52mm's as I like to print -0.2mm-ish into the Z axis, they stick very very well, 10 times better than the cutouts the infinity plate uses, I'm using the square cutouts
The nudges are 1.52mm below the plate, however the plate is 5mm, I'm basically enlarging the plate to be 5mm, and them I'm manually adding small nudges below 1.52mm so that the switches latch on, it's a match made in heaven
My calculations are not very accurate and scientific, I'm going to test various calculations for the plate thickness once I finalize my printing method (the z axis displacement to be specific)
I'm also printing the plate upside down, so the first layer is the top of the plate, this ensures a nice finnish and the bridges are below the nudges, so they don't mess with the switch latching
Z-axis displacement is really minimal, as far as the fitments go, it should fit into cases without issues, in a visually pleasing manner, I really enjoy 5mm plates now that I've tested them, I probably can't easily go back to 1.5mm now (the displacement is <<0.5mm)
I've also finalised my material choice yesterday, it's black PLA with some over-extrusion, when you build into the printer-plate, it creates a really nice looking matter finish (assuming you have blue painter's tape on, the plate adopts the surface characteristics of the tape, which is just beautiful) Also tested ABS but it was soft compared to PLA; also printing with ABS is extremely challenging, so I gave up, with PLA it's easy to get perfect prints, yet with ABS it would likely require many trials
I will let you know when I finalize my calculations, but just by guessing, just enlarging the left side of the swill's 60%/poker output by 1-1.2mm's should make the right/left/bottom gaps equalized in the vortex silver 60% case - otherwise the left gap is the odd one out, I can see the bottom of the case from a meter away
http://imgur.com/ApZLqeC