Kanetsugu Pro-S Kitchen Knivessearch

Kanetsugu Pro-S Kitchen Knives

Kanetsugu Pro-S Kitchen Knives

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Manufactured in China, I suppose?
rdodev
No, they're made in Japan. You can read a bit more about (and see a larger range of) the Pro-S series here:
https://japanesechefsknife.com/collections/kanetsugu-pro-s-series
And while I'm pointing out errors: just noticed that the product image that is supposed to show the 210mm gyuto seems to be showing a different knife.
Edit: Just realized it's the exact same image as shown for the smaller petty knife (which also seems to be wrong, and is actually the larger petty knife! But hey, at least the image for the santoku is correct...)
They've lowered the drop price a bit compared to previous drops, but someone forgot to edit the additional prices down the bottom where the knife images are. It still shows +$5/$15/$20 instead of +$4/$12/$16.
I'd be tempted if not for the metal handles (just not my thing) and the small size of the gyuto. I know 8 inches is some sort of universally accepted standard size for home consumer knives, but I wish they'd offer a larger option for those that want a more productive full size knife.
Jaggi
I agree about the metal handles. I'd be interested if this was for the Pro-M series with the pakkawood handles. Maybe the grip on the metal handles is just as good when wet, but I don't feel like taking the chance.
again. title of page is knives (plural), item for sale here is knife (singular)
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For real though. :D
david_skye
I always jump to the comments first but just reading the headline and picture from my email I thought it was four knives.
Don't know about the steel handled Pro-S line, but the Pro-M line which has a pakkawood handle but otherwise I think is made to the same spec I've found to be a respectable entry level Japanese knife - ground to decently thin behind the edge, steel somewhat forgiving - a little on the softer and tougher side
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This is how I was thinking of it - if the grind of the knife is really essentially flat until the V primary edge bevel, I would have to cut in some in-between angle between the 2 for any behind the edge work. Hard to hold a consistent-ish angle as there is no existing area of the blade face which has an in-between angle. Fast coarse stone a necessity to cut in quickly, as when freehanding it's somewhat easy to drop the angle too much and smear a flat blade face or basically raise into the edge bevel's angle.. On a blade face that has some convex going into the edge bevel, I have a some mm height of blade face above the edge that I can mash into without it being the entirety of the blade face (as in full flat), thin that area, then restore some of the convex as needed by blending.
sc_fd
I see, thanks I've only thinned a couple times myself, but in both cases on flat grinds. I used a medium stone and just laid the whole thing down but put finger pressure closer to the edge when grinding (then a finer stone and or wet/dry paper to refinish the surface)