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atari.super.nes
137
Jul 31, 2016
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Got mine some days ago and upon opening the box and feeling it I thought to myself "what the heck did I buy!"
KB looks are "cheap" but true to be told it was a bit cheap still I was expecting something similar to KBParadise V60 mini which I got from here too, which looks and feels so much better. The "pictures" on the product description here in Massdrop not always match.
This is my configuration:
Switch Type: Gateron Yellow Case Color: White Keycaps: PBT with Purple Dye Sublimated (+$12.00) LED Option: White LED
And I think I got what I ordered, still if somebody can enlighten me if I got the right PBT Purple Dye Sublimated keycaps which don't fell that great they also do not look that good (again like in the product description) had to clean them because they were dusty after that they looked better.
Used to Cherry and Gretch blues this Gateron yellows are a surprise to me, very buttery to the touch at first I missed the "click-clack" but been working with it and although is not loud it has some noise so far I like it.
As for the issues, I feel you brothers & sisters! The keyboard came with the infamous "backspase" key which makes me laugh every time I remember of it also as other have stated all the keys using stabilizers are down by 2-4 millimeters not a good thing if you are a bit OCD, I saw the solution from @Wodan but not sure if I want to cut something... yet (https://www.massdrop.com/buy/kc60-mechanical-keyboard/talk/482178) probably will do it.
Some photos (I tried to change the keycaps almost immediately after opening the package):
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Jul 31, 2016
Ictinike
80
Jul 31, 2016
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atari.super.nesI caved and 3 modifiers on right are already done and working well now and moving on to the left side next. A sharp X-Acto works wonders and just have to be slow and cautious but I'm telling you if your modifiers with Gateron are sticky or not coming all the way up.. This seems the easiest solution. Things are now working as they should. Cheers.
[Edit] Left side now done. What a *MASSIVE* improvent in my case. The issues I stated above with the keys being 1-2mm below the rest of the profile, the modifiers who use the stabilizers, and even blowing on my enter key which would make it row return; are now over.
Trimming off that little bit so the Costar stabilizer bar can actually hit the plate, instead of teh top of the switch; make everything work as it should for me. Your mileage may vary and certainly DO NOT modify if you aren't sure of your skills or ability to deal with an outcome not intended.
Cheers, ~Icky
Jul 31, 2016
alpo
22
Aug 2, 2016
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IctinikeI'd really appreciate it if you could describe in a bit more detail what you've been doing? (I've googled X-Acto and based on that I figured you've been cutting/peeling something, but that's all I could deduce). Thanks
Aug 2, 2016
Ictinike
80
Aug 2, 2016
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alpo@alpo
Sure.. So before I got mine in another member here mentioned that his modifier keys with stabilizers were not coming up fully.
Once I got mine I noticed the same and found that he had trimmed the plastic of the key switches that had modifiers so I took my sharp X-Acto blade (a handheld near surgical blade) and took some of the material off the key as well on where the stabilizer wouldn't fully flush with the plate. Because of this issue, the stabilizers wouldn't let the key stem come completely up and as such any slight touch would depress the key and get extras. As well the keycaps were not right because of the key not coming fully up.
Here is a Gateron switch and what I've highlighted in red had a bit more material than some we've seen. Because of this extra material, the stabilizer would sit on TOP of that material instead of down on the plate. Because they were sitting on top, the keys would never fully come back up so with that blade I trimmed off the black part that is highlighted. I started small bits and found that I could get close up to the switch top and trim that off. Now, because these were mounted with the LED's on the topside of each switch, not the bottom may be possibly why this has occurred.
Once I was able to trim off that extra 1-2mm of material, which caused no noticeable difference in the switch itself, the stabilizer lay flat against the plate and had enough range of motion to allow the key to fully extend upwards. I did this with the 'Backspace', 'Enter' and both 'Shift' keys and now they are working as intended and I have to do more than blow on them to get them to trigger, lol.
Hope it helps and if not I can describe more or possibly try to get a macro shot in there.
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Aug 2, 2016
alpo
22
Aug 2, 2016
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IctinikeThanks a lot @Ictinike! Now I understand what you did there and I can confirm I'm seeing the same on mine.
As I don't have the needed utensils, I'm wondering what would happen if I just remove the stabilizers? Would there be a risk of damaging the switch?
Aug 2, 2016
Ictinike
80
Aug 2, 2016
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alpo@alpo That I cannot say but the reason stabilizers are utilized are for keys that have a wider 'stature' so that when you don't hit the key, directly over the switch stem, the stabilizer's 'stabilize​' the keypress and those sides of the keys don't go above or below what the center gives you.
May not be the greatest explanation but in my experience without stabilizers, if you hit the key on the edge then the keycap edge will not be supported and it sometimes pops off the stem. You CAN run without stabilizers but you will likely not like it unless you hit each key, 100% on the center over stem :)
Aug 2, 2016
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