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Trending Posts in Mechanical Keyboards
DaveKaretnyk
Mode Tempo with Red Samurai
Mode Tempo (60%) with GMK Red Samurai & Mode Lotus keycaps
Apr 25, 2024
dvorcol
Support for Alternative Layouts
This is a summary of how alternative layouts have been supported by kits such as Colevrak and Homing. It is not a discussion of alt layout performance and development, but if that interests you I highly recommend starting with Pascal Getreuer’s A guide to alt keyboard layouts (why, how, which one?). It’s a concise and comprehensive overview with links to some great sites that go deeper. He also has a separate Links about keyboards page. The Keyboard layouts doc he recommends explains layout goals and metrics in detail, summarizing the alt layouts discussed here as well as more than one hundred others. Sculpted-profile The majority of custom keycap sets are sculpted-profile (Cherry, SA, MT3, KAT, etc. - more on profiles generally here) so let’s start there. Because each row has a unique keycap shape, alt layouts require a unique keycap for each legend that moves off its QWERTY row. At first there were two The Dvorak layout was patented in 1936 by August Dvorak & William L....
Apr 23, 2024
CousinTimmy
Promo codes for stack Macropad v2
is there any promo codes right now that work with the STACK OVERFLOW THE KEY V2 MACROPAD? link:https://drop.com/buy/stack-overflow-the-key-v2-macropad?searchId=ead314359856d5486d35f4713cff32e9
Apr 23, 2024
Robbedoes
*Help* Screw in stabilizers not fitting in Dropshift V2 keyboard
I'm trying to build a mechanical keyboard with screw in stabilizers, I've build some mechanical keyboards with click-in stabilizers, never with screw in. Somehow one of the pins of the metal top-part collides with the screw in stabilizer of the numpad "enter key". I already tried grinding of a bit of the pin that collides with the stabilizer, but unfortunately I can't make it fit/close properly. You can see that the pin of the toppart leaves a mark on the bottompart of the stabilizer, see picture 2. What am I missing? Using Durock V2 in a Dropshift fullsize V2. See pictures below, thanks in advance!
Apr 23, 2024
Fukyachickennuggets
Polymer clay
Don't drop crazy cash on custom wood builds! Instead go buy polymer clay and paint. Then you can spend a ridiculous amount of time trying to make it look like you can afford to drop crazy cash on...
Apr 22, 2024
GrEEdYY
HELP PLEASE!
HELP PLEASE! I put noise insulation in the keyboard and after that it stopped working, the only sign of life is 5 blinks of orange light.can do something about it? model:DROP ALTv1
Apr 22, 2024
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But there's more. I don't know how many of you have gotten Gateron switches with their KC60. Well I did. And together with the Costar stabilizers used by the manufacturer collide with the CRAPPY Gateron switches. Once again Gateron is dropping the ball. The lower switch shell is a tiny bit larger than original Cherry MX switches (did a comparison) and the stabilizer wire rests on that tiny bit of overhand the lower shell has:
Still like the keyboard ... wouldn't ever even consider getting these poor excuses for dyesub PBT caps. Last picture also nicely shows the wrong profile "S" keycap. Had to do this with all stabilized keys except for the space bar.
My board arrived this morning and I gave it a pre-installation inspection before connecting it to my computer. Noticed the same stabilizer issue as has been well-documented at this point, so I pulled the keycaps and trimmed the switch housings with an X-Acto knife. Also opened the case and inspected the PCB to make sure I didn't have any missing diodes/resistors or things like that. All was in order.
Gateron Brown switches White case White LEDs White PBT Laser Engraved keycaps
I was getting fairly envious of everybody who went for the dye-sublimated keycaps (they look gorgeous, and I find the "Backspase" rather endearing), but having these I'm actually quite enjoying how they look. I'm kind of a sucker for monochromatic themes and I'm totally pleased with these keycaps. I realize they won't last like dyesubs but I'm okay with that, and the dyesub set is available on both eBay and AliExpress so I can always order them later.
This is my first mechanical keyboard, so I might not be the best person to ask. But I can already tell I'm going to want more boards.
I'm loving all the desk space I have now. I've only ever had fullsize boards (three or four of them), and now I have an extra 8 inches of desk space that I didn't know I was missing. I'm already getting a bit used to the function layer, but I will need some more time with it because I did use all the keys on my fullsize (including the numpad). I'm a frequent user of keyboard shortcuts and I have a history of using things like Ctrl-(Shift-)Left Arrow which are totally muscle memory on a fullsize, but take a bit more mental energy on a 60%.
I've been using just the 60% portion of my TKL as a test before jumping on this drop (a CM QFR/greens with a Frosty Flake programmable replacement controller, good stuff). In my experiment I've set up a mostly complete function layer on my keyboard, based on some of the ideas in Hasu's QMK layouts [https://github.com/jackhumbert/qmk_firmware/blob/master/keyboards/infinity_chibios/keymaps/hasu/keymap.c] and tweaked for my own use.
I know that my own control and shift presses for such "select and navigate" operations always ALWAYS come from holding (and dancing on) the left side keys while navigating with my right, so keeping the cursor control accessible cleanly with ONLY the right hand was a big factor for my own muscle memory. Depending on your own hand posture and easy reach range, it may be more convenient to have something closer to the new arrow cluster assigned as a tap key where held acts as Fn and tapping acts as the natural key--say semicolon. I currently use the .> key but the amount of times I accidentally fire off a Fn combination at the end of a sentence or the middle of a decimal number may convince me to adjust ;) All that remains is to add the few remaining keys like PrSc/ScrLock/Pause, Media controls, etc. and I think I'll be good to go when the KC60 arrives.
A while back I made a layout for the KC60 with the navigation keys on I, O, P, K, L, and Semicolon, then Print Screen, Scroll Lock and Pause were [, ], and \. With vim-style arrows, you could replicate this by moving the nav keys to the left (something like Q W E A S D).
The tap key idea actually seems nicely suited for staying on Caps Lock (if you like having a Caps Lock key). I'd dislike having a dual-mode key on a key that actually inputs text or modifies text when held. As Caps Lock doesn't do either, it seems a good location for that.
Something I love about this keyboard (and the reason I chose it over a Pok3r) is the full programmability. If I don't like something, I can change it. I can customize it to how I use the board.
Especially with a history of gaming and vi-keys etc., I think my brain adapted much smoother to the "oh no, the nav cluster isn't a 2x3 grid plus an inverted T" than I believe it would have to re-learning what fingers to use for shift and control in *specifically* the navigation case vs. the general case. Unlike some forms of typing, I think for me the task-based nature of "jump backward word by word, now switch to fine-location by character" or "go to the end of the line then highlight to the start of the line" gets abstracted away in much the same way that using a keyboard or controller to play a game soon becomes less "PRESS X NOW!" and more just "jump."
Of course if your own typing muscles tell you otherwise then my path to personal discovery stays... personal. :D