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amb3cog
90
Jan 27, 2018
What's the sound output with this? Is there digital out for sound? Like SPIDIF? Analog?
amb3cog
90
Jan 27, 2018
amb3cogIf anyone cares. Best I can tell there is only a 3/8 in analog out (headphone jack), and HDMI for digital audio. I was thinking this could make a nice streaming device for a HiFi setup going into a DAC, but the HDMI will add cost, and may hurt the sound. At least RP has SPIDIF for audio. But no Windows. I
It also looks like running this with Linux is doable, but there's some issues, like the sound unfortunately.
djt344
0
Jan 29, 2018
amb3cogI have one of these streaming to an external USB to Coax/Opt converter (XMOS U12 based).. works a treat...
Alejandro508
28
Mar 15, 2018
amb3cogI made a similar set up except with an RPI 3 running Volumio for the OS and an external DAC. Sounds fantastic and I can control it on my phone via WiFi.
amb3cog
90
Mar 15, 2018
Alejandro508Thanks for the reply. That's what my original plan was, but figured I would see if this was a good option. I've come to the conclusion that it isn't. I actually just got a Raspberry Pi 3-b last Saturday. I went to an AudioKarma.org event near me, and we were supposed to put them together. But we couldn't get the network going at the hall. And I accidentally stuffed a micro SD in my laptop's SD reader. So it's going to have to wait a bit till I straighten that out, or buy a reader. Then today (Pi day) I find out they're coming out with a new, and better one for the same price. Someone else grabbed mine at Micro Center. So it's kinda hard to take back. Crap luck. smh
But whatever. I'm going to get this going soon. I'm sick of having my laptop tied up when I listen to music. Which is basically all the time. I didn't spend $600 on a sweet laptop with NVME drive, and all. So it could be tethered to a stereo as a high priced, yet poor performing streamer. I recommend you get the sound card add on for yours, and use SPIDF if you don't already. The USB out on the Pi is horrible according to many people that know what they're talking about. I'm getting one myself, and a case that fits both. And a linear power supply will help too. Of course you need good gear to see the difference though.
amb3cog
90
Mar 15, 2018
djt344Thanks man. I appreciate the reply. But I've decided I'm done dealing with Windows for my HiFi. Trying to get it to work with a DAC is a pain. Every other OS just works. Windows makes it difficult, if not impossible. Depending on what DAC you're using. Raspberry Pi for me. For now anyway.
djt344
0
Mar 15, 2018
amb3cogNot really a Windows fan myself, if you do get Panda working though, it's a good platform. I have tried Pi and the browser is a little slow, but new 3+ may fix that... I also read, and cannot confirm - a quick search may help - that digital audio on Pi is limited - maybe 48kHz - so I got in an Asus Tinkerboard to try and circumvent that - but never got around to it as Panda worked straight away - and which outputs the full 384kHz.
amb3cog
90
Mar 15, 2018
djt344I'm not sure about that, but I know the cheap sound cards I've been looking at. That add coaxial SPIDF digital out are 192khz. I also know that plenty of NOS DAC's that are a lot lower then that sound better then plenty of other DAC's that do 384khz. There's a lot more to this then specs. That's for sure. It's all about the implementation of what you're using. You can't just buy the best DAC chip out there, and even the best of everything else to go with it, and be assured of great sound. Great sound takes talent, experience, and even luck sometimes. I actually like the sound of some older tech stuff, like the NOS DAC's use. When done right by people like Scott Nixon. You won't be wishing you had higher rates at all.
My big issue with Windows is you need drivers to use high bit/sampling rate, because of the restrictions of the stock USB drivers. And if you don't have them. Depending on what you're working with, like streaming Google Play. You might get stuck running the sound through Windows, as opposed to directly. If the company that built your DAC doesn't put out the proper drivers. You can't do those high rates anyway then.
Like I have a DAC right now where the owner of the company died. So you can get it working in certain situations, but not all, and that's not changing ever. And for like streaming with say Tidal. I think it's doing higher rates, but I'm not quite sure, because there's no readout on the DAC to tell me. At least with the Pi I'll know that's not an issue I have to worry about. It should do 192khz if it's called for. And I'll know for sure it's not running my sound through all the Windows BS. It will be running an OS designed strictly for music. Eventually as funds allow. I'll be going with a real streamer designed for HiFi. This is just a cheap holdover so I can use my computer. And a fun experiment. So cheap is best for now.
But on the plus side. At least with Windows you can use basically anything. I can jump from IHeart to internet radio to Google Play to Amazon Music to Tidal to independent radio stations to YouTube to just about anything without much trouble at all. But I will still have my laptop for that. So I think right now anyway. Pi is the winner. But we'll see once I get it going. Thanks for responding. I appreciate it, and I'm going to research the digital out on the Pi some more. I am curious about that.
williamwei
4
Apr 18, 2018
amb3cogCheck out tech specs on https://www.lattepanda.com/ there's a forum for FQA and discussions.
amb3cog
90
Apr 18, 2018
williamweiThank you. I actually have already done that. It seems USB is probably the best solution for me if I bought one. And I may. I had ruled it out, until someone on YouTube showed me this last night.
https://www.daphile.com
It's a Linux based audiophile OS that has some great features. I could output it via USB, directly to my Scott Nixon USB Tube DAC/external linear power supply set. And if it's not great. I could get a USB Reclocker/Regency maybe. And add a linear power supply too obviously. No paying for Windows this way too.
I'm not sure though. As nice as that would be, and as easy as it would be to use. An Allo USBridge kit with a linear power supply would most definitely give better sound quality. Just not sure how better. And there's plenty of good software too. Just not as simple to use, and probably not as stable. Certainly not as powerful. The Allo Sparky that comes with the kit is good, but not great. And needs an external WiFi dongle. Or I'll have to use a powerline network connection to the ethernet.