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Mine came a bit dull. Any advice on sharpening since the edge seems to be convex? I don’t have a strap sharpener, just stones.
I wasnt aware aluminum sr-2 came in sleipnir. I thought all sr-1 and sr-2 were d2
Even at this price point it doesn't seem appealing, the materials are too cheapo.

Very nice knife. A bit small for my ogre mitts but happy none the less. Only thing got me confused. Its not the same red as my sr1.
Opens like hot garbage. The amount of friction is so great that there is like an audible palpability to it. It's disgusting. Not sure if I want to return or attempt to make it better. Only ever felt really, really cheap folders come out of the box with this much internal burring, grinding, scratching and sliding. Totally impossible to open without a really hard flick.

The liner lock screw lock needs to not be so loose and rattly to be anywhere near decent. Hell, it probably needs to be especially difficult to twist, since normal handling will probably often lead to inadvertent locking, even if it didn't spin freely.
merrickx
Yeesh. I have one of the original titanium ones and haven't had that issue, thanks for the heads up.
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Does anyone else really want to see the full size titanium drop?
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If you don't mind carrying a big knife, then I highly recommend the SR-11. It is an ox of a folder.

Go for it my friend, you won't be sorry. 👍🏼
I EDC the ZT0302 sometimes. Hell of a steak knife. :-D
I have the full version of this blade and love everything about it except the stupid, stupid lock. I can't believe they stick with it or how anyone can say with a straight face that it is even a *good* feature. What am I missing? Aside from having to remember which rotation locks it up it rattles around a bit loose for my liking leaving me unsure as to whether is or will stay locked up.... if were to actually like it, which I don't.

If you can get past that? This knife is sweet and is SO solid when it first snaps open. zero movement in any direction.
Finally a good deal. Just hope my average mitts fit the damn thing.
For those curious, Phos-Bronze washers sized .300x.200x.022 , seem to do the trick. A drop of lube/oil in there and things fall in place nicely.

You could also elect the above size, yet choose Nylon. Finally, from what I understand, Lionsteel will send you extra washers in the exact size needed if you write them and request it.
Disassembly:
(Note the handle is made of buttery soft aluminum... don't force anything and be careful not to scratch it. The washers are somewhat soft and delicate too.)

The captive pivot unscrews from the presentation side (not the side with the stop pin screw). There is threadlocker ... you may need to heat the screws (but not so hot that it softens the washers). I heated to a surface temperature of 150°F for about 20-30 seconds... didn't take much.

The easiest way to remove the blade is to remove the stop pin, rotate the blade so it's pointing all the way up, then insert something between the scales to wedge them apart a tiny bit wider than the blade+washers. I used a stack of blank ID cards (they are handy for various wedging/spudging/scraping tasks). Don't use any sharp tools to poke around.

Now you can clean everything. You could measure the washers at this point if you want to swap them. But I'm not sure it's a good idea to put metal washers next to soft aluminum, and the design of the handle puts the blade under constant pressure so it probably wouldn't be much smoother.

Reassembly:

Procure a plastic, teflon, or wooden rod about 5mm in diameter and cut it so it is just slightly taller (0.2mm-0.5mm) than than the washer/blade "sandwich". I used part of an old pinwheel toy.

Lube the washers if you want (I have no idea what lube, if any, is best for Teflon washers, I went with a little silicone lube). Also lube the detent track if you like. Assemble the sandwich on the rod and just slide everything into the knife until the rod falls out of the pivot hole. It'll be pretty snug going in, but that's okay, all the friction should be on the rod and not the washers.

Reassemble with new threadlocker. Put the little rod somewhere (maybe in the knife's box) so you can use it again later.

My knife was full of gunky lube and metal shavings (pieces of metal were even embedded in the washers). I was not able to flick open the knife open until I cleaned it.
awk
There is a Teflon based lubricant available in a spray or as a grease.
PNWNative
Yeah, hindsight I probably should've went with Teflon lube. I have some SuperLube products which are safe to use on pretty much everything.
I would go with a Ganzo G720 for $16.99 shipped free from numerous sites in China. Ganzo dominates the ultra-budget, yet "real knife" sector of the market (plus they are fun to collect). Even with shipping from China, you will get it sooner that this Italian "stud" in this drop.
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Ganzo knives are the best knives in the history of the world. No other knife company even comes close.
o, now I get it...so you really hate ganzo...by trolling, you try to make ganzo looks bad...it is my fault to feed the troll.
From the pictures, there appears to be a screw in the middle of the frame lock. What's that about? I can't figure out from the pictures what that screw is there for.
Sitwon
Seems to be to prevent the lockbar from overtravel.
For when you press the bar too hard it might bend too hard in the wrong direction...

the two little screws at the lockbar top hold a little insert in place to secure the soft aluminum from wearing of from the harder blade steel.
Sitwon
Its actually a second lock. It prevents the lockbar from over travel but it also can lock it close