Little Dot I+ Headphone Ampsearch

Little Dot I+ Headphone Amp

Little Dot I+ Headphone Amp

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(9 reviews)
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Does anybody know exactly the output impedance?
If anyone is interest, I'm selling my Little Dot I+ w/ GE JAN 5654W or Voshkod 6ZH1P-EV w/ OPA2107 for $130. If you want a DAC with that I'm also selling my DFB v1.5 (have original package and updated with latest firmware to support MQA). $50. Comes with required audio cable 3.5mm to RCA (6ft). Let me know. I'll sell you the whole package for $175 shipped CONUS.
I moved on to better things, running Schiit Bifrost and Asgard 2...
MannyAkim
Will you send it out side of US?
Im a noob with this tube amp thing. How would my smsl idea dac connect too this if it only has rcas?
I'm curious how this amp compares to an xDuoo TA-01 given that I can plug this Little Dot I+ into my HiFime UAE23HD USB DAC (ESS SABRE9018K2M+SA9023)?
Essentially this is a comparison between 2 x CS4398 DACs and 1 x ESS SABRE 9018K2M + the tube section of both headphone amps.
Is the little dot Tube Amp section better than the xDuoo TA-01? Also how do the 6JI tubes compare to 12AU7/ECC82 in terms of sound quality?
I have both a V3 and a V4 and they just have too much interference in my house. There is almost no shielding on the metal, and while I don't do this on purpose, I once dropped my phone while I was giving the LD1+ time to warm up and there was a noticeable interference buzz when my phone landed near my LD1+. Occassionally it can get quiet enough or I can turn up the volume enough to not notice the background noise, but even after changing the jumpers to get the best sound for the tubes and still getting occasional loud pops and clicks after playing for an hour, I'm done fighting it.
Idk if the higher models have any shielding, but the xDuoo TA tube amps/hybrid amps seem to not have any interference like the LD1+ does. Kind of a bummer since when it was working better it was kind of fun to try to pick up differences between tubes.
Brosefstalin42
I had this issue too but I came to find out it was because of my router. The tubes themselves will pick up the frequency and create annoying interferences, so I placed my router in a different room and everything was fine after that. You can also swap tubes that are more resistant to interference and that'll help too. Tubes can also pick up vibrating sounds which explains the buzzing sound when you drop your phone. If you lightly tap on the tubes while listening to music, you'll hear the vibration and your finger tapping on the glass for each channel.
But yeah... Tube amps can be annoying
Brosefstalin42
Its the tubes themselves that pick up the RFI, not the circuit. This is pretty common with pentodes I am finding, and why the triple mica tubes seem to be the highest rated tubes in class. I had this issue for a bit, but I cabled everything properly, and moved the amp far away from the computer and the noise goes away.
It's hard to see the value in the Little Dot 1+ when there's a boatload of B-stock Vali 2s available for $119.
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RF95349
B-stock Vali 2s have dropped down to $99 with 150+ in stock.
RF95349
i got b stock vali 2 $99 plus b stock modi 2 $79, should be here monday, cant wait!
If you ever feel at a loss for words to describe your audio experience, you're not alone. But this excerpt from the Truly Gadgets review of the LD i+ is an example of why some thoughts are better left unsaid: "We’re used to a transistor-based world, with most of our audio gear relying on ever-smaller pathways. But the fact is that they are over-loaded, like trying to cram a boatload of water into a thin tube. With high-definition audio sources especially, the result are music that sounds thinner and flatter than it has too."
Would this drive the Fostex T-X0 to anywhere near their full potential?
Sintek
Yes, depending on the tube used, and the Mu value for that tube type, And because of the Fostex low resistance and high sensitivity, I can’t turn the volume up past 2/10 on this little amp. Way more than enough to power those cans...
Anyone willing to purchase this amplifier with the upgrade tubes of WE408 for $110 splitting the shipping. This price is negotiable, email me at afeng288@gmail.com.
When I'm switching tube types, when I have a 6J1 tube like 5654, where is the cap and where are the open prongs? The guide I have (fairly old) doesn't make it clear to me so I'm a bit worried about switching out to different current tubes like the 408 or the EF91/92.
I have pointers for people making guides - mark what the different colors mean on the reference page. I assume the larger white rectangle is the jumper and the small black square is the open peg, but I don't want to fry my little dot.
EDIT: I have the v3.0 board. v4.0 has better instructions
EDIT2: I was wrong, the open pins are the tube setting. had some hum and switched the jumps and boom, silent.
Did anyone else buy the upgraded Western Electric tubes and receive the inferior and not even as good as the 6JI Northern Electric 408a tubes in their box? I'm pretty furious about this. That is a misrepresentation at best and a real deal bait and switch at worst. I just got my drop today with these inferior tubes in it.
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Tompetz
I was in the same situation and question raised?
Tompetz
Exact same tube. One made in Canada, one made in the USA. Are you saying that Canadian manufacturing is lesser quality than the US, like Mullards made in india? I think not... I have both WE and NE anf they sound identical, so not inferior at all. However, price and availability wise, there is a massive difference.
so anyone received ship confirmation yet?
hold on, i just realized it doesn't mention a warranty on the product page. does this come with a warranty?
Wait, what? It’s not going to ship for another month? Wtf is this?
Tompetz
It's called Massdrop. Your fault for not looking.
I have had my Little Dot +I for some months now, and I have noticed that it has started to develop a super strong electrical buzzing sound. The fist couple of months I had this amp there were no noise at all with the amp (that I noticed at least), but lately it has started to develop a buzzing sound, which I could removed by pressing down slightly on the frame or by moving the amp around a little. However, the issue has grown more persistent, meaning that the noise is only removed as long as I apply pressure on the frame of the amp, or if I adjust on one of the tubes (the one over the volume dial). Do anybody know how to fix this issue? I should note that this buzzing is strong enough that it is an issue even if I were to listen to music on 80% volume.
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Maybe you got a defective socket, if you can't contact Little Dot you could try changing it, it's an easy desolder-solder work. Or you could have a ground loop, did you tested it? An easy way to check: unplug the RCA cables when you hear the electrical buzz, and if it goes away, you know where the problem is. Good luck mate!
I was able to eliminate my right channel hum with a ground loop isolator and turning my source down, turning down my source also gave me cleaner low end and for some reason more sub bass. I also noticed something like my phone does not have the hum and plugging it into an A/B switch gave it hum on both channels regardless of having a ground loop on the input or not... so far it has been a difficult amp to keep happy. Goodluck
I requested this amp a while back to go with my 6XX's, but than the LD MK2 showed up and i went with that... I assume the MK2 is the better way to go and i shouldnt be bummed out about this, right?
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Welho
Yeah, I own the LD I+ and it lacks a bit of "tubey-ness" for my taste, MK2 seems the way to go for Sennheisers. BTW I strongly suggest you to get better driver tubes, specially if you got the stock 6J1. I suggest you to get a matched pair of Voskhod 6ZH1P-EV, best price-performance and great match for the HD6XX/HD650. More info about tubes here: https://www.head-fi.org/threads/little-dot-tube-amps-vacuum-tube-rolling-guide.563884/
Welho
MK2 are a far better match for 6xx headphones than the 1+. This is not a tube amp, it is a solid state amp with some tubes for the "preamp". It is debatable how much the tubes actually benefit the sound... certainly it doesn't influence the sound as much as an actual tube amp where the tubes are the amplification (and they actually get hot, changing the sound quite a bit). You can touch tubes on a preamp without getting burned, you would be advised to NOT touch tubes that are part of the amplification process.
Solid state amps are the newer technology designed for efficiency. They provide more current with less voltage. Low impedance headphones are better matched with this amp, since they too are designed to need more current and less voltage. This efficiency allows a small device like an ipod to power nice headphones, since it doesn't need a lot of voltage.
A tube amp will provide a lot of voltage (it still needs current, but because of the impedance, it needs more voltage to get the adequate amount of current to drive the device). Your 6xx headphones need more voltage than a current amp provides, so the MK2 will suitably amp them giving you the better pairing to let your phones shine.
Again, this is not an issue of which is better, low or high impedance. It is an issue of pairing what your headphones need with an amp that provides the right benefit. If you have planars (4xx), they need additional consideration since they need a lot of juice even on low impedance. At that, they are still suited for solid state amps, but solid state amps that can provide significant current/flow.
Hi. Im having some trouble. To start off I have my Little Dot 1+ hooked up to the topping dac d30 to my computer via usb. I have the Sennheiser hd 579s. When i turn the amp up to 25 at the desktop i start hearing buzzing noises, which i assume is normal for tube amps. But the issue is when im in games there is a background noise that is louder than the normal buzz and gets really loud when i go into pvp. I can hear it on the right side of the headphones but if i turn the amp all the way down it switches to the left. The sennheisers work fine when i plug into the mobo. I have also switched out the stock tubes for https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BFJDTW0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Any suggestions? Sorry for being a noob and bringing my problems here. I just don't know were to troubleshoot from this point.
Joseph13
Hi Joseph, I have exactly your same dac/amp setup, great choice hehehe. My LD using Mullard M8161 (EF92) produces almost no buzz at all, and with Voskhod 6ZH1P-EV just a liiitle bit, barely audible, so you shouldn't have almost any buzz if everything works fine. There could be many things causing this buzz, I had some problems until finding the optimal results from this setup, so these are my ideas: - first of all, check your LD jumpers. You're using EF95 family tubes, so your LD should have the jumpers exactly as seen on this picture:
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- keep your amp away from any source of electromagnetic fields: smartphones, PC, monitor, routers, printers... Try moving it around your desk and check if the noise goes away. You can stack your LD on top of the D30, no problem with that, since the D30 doesn't leak any electromagnetic field outside of the metallic case (like most DACs & amps in the market).
- make sure you don't have a ground loop caused by plugging the DAC and amp or PC on different power sources. You shouldn't have it, since the D30 doesn't have ground connection, but checking this is pretty easy so I'll explain how: turn on the DAC, then the amp, and when you can hear this buzz, unplug the RCA inputs from the amp. If the buzz goes away when you unplug the RCA and comes back when you plug them, you have a ground loop. To prevent the loop, try plugging your DAC, amp and PC on the same plug splitter, as close as possible. If it does not work, well, you always can supress one of the grounds and pray for the best (risky) or make some further research. I did first when using my PC as source before getting the D30, don't blame me, I swear I tried to fix it by any means.
- use another source to test if the problem is on your DAC or amp, for example connect your phone to the DAC using a 3.5mm to RCA cable. If it sounds fine, you know the problem is on your DAC or PC, or the connection between them.
- since you said the buzz is more audible when you're playing games, I bet there might be some electric noise on the USB port that connects the DAC to the PC. Try using other USB port, both front & rear, maybe you find a less noisy one.
- if nothing works, try with other tubes and/or opamps. Check the internal components, soldering, caps, volume pot... If everything looks fine, contact support.
Some other free tips: - when turning on, first turn on the DAC and a few seconds after the amp; when turning off, do the opposite (first amp, then DAC). - before tube rolling (changing tubes), turn off and let the amp cool down and discharge for a few minutes. Unplug it from everything, and remove the tubes before moving jumpers. Same when changing gain switches, and always move both. - double-check your jumpers when switching between different tube families. If you misplace jumpers, you could damage tubes or even blow the amp, so make sure everything's ok before turning on the amp. - always use "matched pairs" of tubes, and if you suspect one of your tubes sounds different (louder, noisy, or whatever) swap the tubes and test if it goes to the other channel. If it does, you know there might be a problem with one of your tubes, or a mismatch. - set the gain switches according to your headphones. If you don't use any high impedance or low sensitivity cans, you can leave it at the "low" gain. Mine is "high", you can see it in the picture. - this kind of amps usually suffer some channel imbalance when the volume knob is very low (let's say under 15%), so try keeping the volume knob above that level to prevent it. You can always play with the software volume, so not a big deal. But also keep in mind running the amp at max volume all the time it's not good, so find a "sweet spot" for the volume knob where you can have the software volume at a reasonable 60-80% at your desired volume, so you don't have to constantly play around with the knob. - don't let the amp running for more than 8 hours or so before cooling down for a while, this thing gets pretty hot and it might damage the internal circuits or even cause a fire if something goes really really bad (not common). But don't turn it on and off too often, it also shortens the life of the tubes. As a rule of thumb, if you're considering turning off the amp for a while, if you'll turn it on again in under 15 minutes, keep it on (unless it has been on for too long, in that case turn it off and let it cool down for at least 10-15 minutes). - try to avoid plugging-unplugging headphones while the amp is on, it's not a big deal but it causes small shorts that might damage the amp in the long term. If you want to make a quick A-B test it's ok, but don't abuse it if you want your amp to last for years.
Hi guys, I've been researching about this amp for a while now and pretty excited on how it will sound with my setup. Is it a week before the "drop" will be ready after we've requested to be notified about it? Also, just wondering if you guys know.. I dislike hiss a lot - I'm hoping this will not have any. I have a little dot 1 (the battery operated solid state one, which I've misplaced) that I got years ago and it hissed - my previous setup was 16bit FLACs > Clip+ > little dot 1 > Grado sr80 = hiss.. I've recently upgraded a bit and now running 24bit FLACs > iBasso DX80 > Grado sr325is.. so I'm hoping the 1+ will be a really good addition. I also pre-emptively ordered the voshkod tubes. And now thinking about ordering the muses02 opamp. :D
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Alright I'm sold, ordered the alps blue velvet 100k pot! I'll keep the knob stock for now. It will be a sleeper, modified innards with an unsuspecting exterior. Sure no problem I'll update again when I get the caps haha.
fredisyoga
Replacing the pot will require some tinkering, but I'm sure you'll find the way. Look for some info on internet, there's plenty of people that did it before.
Is this worth for my HE-4xx? Im currently using e10k
DasKey
I've been rocking that setup with them and love the sound and dynamics personally..that said, you may want to find a properly suitable external DAC to go with this if you don't already have one but I personally enjoy the sound even straight from my phone/computer onboard electronics.
YMMV..
ChumbWumba
I was thinking of using E10K as DAC and this little dot as AMP.
Hi I am new into the audio market and have just purchased a pair of HD 6XX's and was wondering if I should be purchasing this tube AMP for them and if I do will it be ok to run it without a DAC just from my motherboard. Thanks Dan
DanielYates
You can certainly use this amp with just your mobo’s DAC but I would still recommend you to buy a dedicated DAC like a Dragonfly black to remove EMI and reaps you with a cleaner, better sound.
SegWhey
^^This! I listen this exact way when not employing my NFB-11 for use. He4xx, HD6xx, k7xx, and tx-0 and others all sound at a minimum, decent (and quite nice in certain applications) with just my little dot 1+ alone. Its quite worthy of its retail asking price, and I think an absolute steal at Massdrop pricing! I bought at full retail and would again. Get yourself a few pairs of matched tubes to roll to experiment with for a significant upgrade over stock tubes. I landed on these Voshkod's after a few different pairs and I find them to be well worth the price of admission ($20 shipped to the USA)! https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=voshkod+6zh1p-ev&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8
Best wishes on an incredible audio journey!
For anyone whose interested in buying the i+ for a better price from Canada, see my comment a little further down! $85 plus shipping, details below.
We interesting companion to my magni 3. Littledot1 with voskod tubes and Burson opamp with rich soun and deep bass, but less detailed and smaller soundstage than the magni 3. Both are great with my HD6XX
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The sonic differences between the stock tubes and Voshkod’s are apparent to me. The Voshkod has a mellower, smoother, and more detailed sound than the stock tubes. They also resist outside noise a LOT better.
SephHaley
Oh thanks for the feedback on that buddy but I do already have the matched Voshkod's installed and haven't looked back ever since I was rolling tubes and put them in shortly after purchasing the 1+...I was actually asking how much of a difference switching the op-amp out makes...I have the same Burson unit purchased but never bothered swapping it for whatever reason. I was curious how much of a difference the op-amp makes to the overall sound and dynamics etc.
This one or DarkVoice for Sennheiser hd 6XX?
TextureMan
....exactly
TextureMan
DV
How are the op-amps to change? Simple pull out and stick in the new? Thank you!
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Thank you
Just made it a little further down...good to know its worth swapping out, thanks!
Does anyone have problem with when touching the little dot 1+ it makes noise
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Thanks
I just use a Lyr 2 right now and only have tube experience in the 6dj8/6922/7308 family. Nearly all the tubes you buy on ebay at a "good price" end up having those darn microphonics, it can be aggravating.
Just thought I'd throw it out there, I'm selling my Little Dot (I+) that I bought right here on Massdrop about a year ago. I've since upgraded, If anyone's interested, $80 CAD, $25 CAD shipping within Canada. For anyone looking to avoid import fees, and wants a quicker method, let me know! johnstorey2413@gmail.com
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Yeah, I thought that may be the case, I guess it’s a lot cheaper when you‘re a corporation! Enjoy the amp!
I’m not sure if you’re referring to me? I already sell the amp elsewhere though...
What tubes do you guys recommend to tube roll these?
I have the meze 99 classics, does anyone recommend this? I like the original sound but I heard using an amp would make it louder and more pronounced. I'm looking for an amp under $100 should I get this or a different amp
Would anyone recommend this amp with the Massdrop Sennheiser 6XXs?
This amp good for gaming or just music?