Sennheiser PC37X randomly goes bad after disconnecting the cable ?
Greetings, Yesterday I was using my headset like normal with my macbook, just listening to music and on a call with people like usual, and the headset was perfectly fine. The stock wire that came with the headset is extremely long and yesterday it annoyed me very much that it kept getting tangled with itself, so I decided to see if the cable is replaceable. I pulled out the cable from the headset and saw the adapter, and looked online for a replacement. Upon plugging it back in, the audio sounded extremely muffled and washed out. Im not sure what I did wrong to make it mess up like that as I've always taken good care of it, ive had it for about 2 years and its always just been chilling on my desk, but anywho I thought the cable just went bad and ordered a replacement. The replacement came, and the issue is still persistant, so I am not sure what the issue is I've tried multiple different headsets and the issue is not with the port, and I also tried it with my windows laptop and...
Apr 23, 2024
kev
Solution 1. Replace tube sockets with shorter or narrower sockets. Solution 2. Enlarge the holes in the top of the case to allow the tube sockets to stick through. I am probably going with the second solution. P.S. I hope anyone reading this doesn't think I am overly obsessing about the bent PCB, but my background in engineering & R&D sees this as a serious breaking of the rules of quality assembly. PCBs are not generally made to be bent to this degree,or at all! It will likely fail at some point. I hope for everyone else's sake that it doesn't, but mine is going to be made right one way or another. This thing does sound nice though. I have to give the electrical engineer credit here. It's the mechanical engineer that is to blame. BTW I think you should be able to disable the locking phone jack without opening the unit up. Not sure if the wires are long enough. I can elaborate if anyone wants to do it. It's easy. Update: If anyone cares??? I finally enlarged the tube holes in the chassis to accommodate the tube sockets. Used a Dremel, but ended up finishing with a course file. The large holes need to be a bit over 1" & the smaller ones about 3/4". I thought that I could use the brass plate as a guide, but the large holes need to be a bit larger than the holes in the brass cover & the small holes a bit smaller. Anyway, it's all back together & working, with a flat, unbent, PCB. One of the hardest parts is learning how to maneuver the wires to get the board out & then to get it back in. When you get the wires arranged properly, the PCB assy. comes out & goes in smoothly. Glad that's over, as it was bugging me that the unit just wasn't right. The amp is much happier now. I would like to tell you that it sounds much better with an unstressed PCB, but I really can't tell a difference. ;) Also enjoying the non-locking jack.
Regards, kev