*Help* Screw in stabilizers not fitting in Dropshift V2 keyboard
I'm trying to build a mechanical keyboard with screw in stabilizers, I've build some mechanical keyboards with click-in stabilizers, never with screw in. Somehow one of the pins of the metal top-part collides with the screw in stabilizer of the numpad "enter key". I already tried grinding of a bit of the pin that collides with the stabilizer, but unfortunately I can't make it fit/close properly. You can see that the pin of the toppart leaves a mark on the bottompart of the stabilizer, see picture 2. What am I missing? Using Durock V2 in a Dropshift fullsize V2. See pictures below, thanks in advance!
Apr 23, 2024
the keycaps are thin, but it's really no different from other stock LED shine through caps (i replaced mine with the pulse SA set). the lighting modes all worked for me and typing is fine (gateron browns) with no chattering. i kind of wished they didn't stagger the function keys just so they could fit a dedicated print screen button in, but it's not a big deal and the current layout is definitely more muscle memory friendly for people who are used to standard full sized or tkl layouts.
as a heads up, the cherry-style stabilizers are unfortunately quite rattly and it will be pretty tough to lube without opening up the keyboard. makes me wonder how tomoko is able to make such a cheap keyboard without the rattling stabilizers (or my tomoko 87 doesn't have any rattle). i guess some might consider it part of the charm of a mechanical keyboard.
anyways, quick pics of the neat manual, stabilizer, and board with pulse caps. i've also linked a video of the rattle for those who are interested.
it's really too bad; all the keyboards i've owned with costar style stabilizers came with pre-lubed stabilizers and inserts (and of course no rattle).