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SsButerbal
Ringing in PC38X's
I recently got this headset, and wow is it good. My only issue is when certain people talk on discord, I can hear a really high pitched ringing. I fiddled with a bunch of settings, computer audio and discord, and nothing seems to solve the issue. It is primarily if not all in my right ear only. Is there something wrong with my headset, or was that ringing always there I can just hear it cause the headset is THAT good? I haven't had any issues with any other application, though I have yet to test if I can hear the ringing on a different version of discord, say on my xbox instead of my pc. Only other issue I've had is occasional static, but I can't tell if it's from the headset or the show/game/etc.
Apr 24, 2024
itsamepe
Sennheiser PC37X randomly goes bad after disconnecting the cable ?
Greetings, Yesterday I was using my headset like normal with my macbook, just listening to music and on a call with people like usual, and the headset was perfectly fine. The stock wire that came with the headset is extremely long and yesterday it annoyed me very much that it kept getting tangled with itself, so I decided to see if the cable is replaceable. I pulled out the cable from the headset and saw the adapter, and looked online for a replacement. Upon plugging it back in, the audio sounded extremely muffled and washed out. Im not sure what I did wrong to make it mess up like that as I've always taken good care of it, ive had it for about 2 years and its always just been chilling on my desk, but anywho I thought the cable just went bad and ordered a replacement. The replacement came, and the issue is still persistant, so I am not sure what the issue is I've tried multiple different headsets and the issue is not with the port, and I also tried it with my windows laptop and...
Apr 23, 2024
MrChiSox
Big changes coming to my tiny little music room, I've recently purchased a new stack. Currently figuring out where to locate it all and ordering up the necessary cables, it won't be too long before I'm up and running. I am now the proud owner of a brand new stack. It's a European brand called Earmen. Amp, DAC, Streamer & Linear Power Supply. It won't be long!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MB15yM4UptQ
Apr 23, 2024
Briankan
Recommendation for my next headphone set? I have Koss 95x
Hey all, What would you recommend I get next and why? I have Koss ESP-95x electrostatic massdrop headphones. These are my first and only audiophile set. I love them. I think my only real requirements is $500 or less for the headphones and that they have a little more low end. I don’t need thump but these are really light on lows…but the experience is still awesome. Also any recommendations on an amp? I only have my electrostatic thingy. I am using the Topping D50 DAC. thx!!
Apr 22, 2024
Simthaniel
Rigs
Modded headphones with qudelix at the core
When I received the Qudelix 5K, I had already modified a pair of Superlux HD-681 headphones. I previously soldered my own balanced connections to the drivers, providing multiple ways to connect and...
Apr 14, 2024
brothamike
A decent set of IEMs
I am in the midst of a 300 hour burn-in but, I will say I am enjoying how this set sounds so far. Before I received these which was btw late by a few weeks, I purchased a Sony/Kimber Kable MMCX...
Apr 12, 2024
merrick97
Should I exchange the PC38X for better headphones?
I bought the PC38X headphones FOR GAMING and they are great, but I have NO use for a Microphone since I don't do competitive gaming and I was wondering if there were better headphone options at a similar price without a headphone, where (presumably) more of the cost was put into making it sound better. I also find that my PC38X don't get quite as loud as I would like and I was wondering if a cheap amp like the iFi Go link would draw a little more volume out of my phones. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BN6MM822?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details I went with the PC38X since it was considered the best bang for buck headphones. I care most about using spatial apps like DOlby Atmos and DTS Headphone:X. Suggestions are welcome.
Apr 11, 2024
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Just be sure to amp them with something good. That's the real hidden cost of these headphones. O2 or Magni will get the job done, but you will be amazed at how much detail these things can pull out of a good amplifier. It's really quite stunning.
Otherwise, I'd look at Schiit (Valhalla 2 or Jotunheim) and audio-GD's NFB DAC/amp combo lineup.
Now as for Crack mods, they're all described in far greater detail in the Bottlehead Crack forum. But I've had enough coffee to give a breakdown of what I've done:
1. The stepped attenuator upgrade is very simple and worth it cause the stock pot is BAD, I can measure differences in resistance with my multimeter across channels and they are not small. Wherever you buy the stepped pot from should indicate clearly which leads go where (input, output, ground). I really like the stepped pot I got from lasercollection on ebay, but sometimes I feel like there aren't enough steps to hit the right volume, so I'm planning on adding a 3 way gain switch as well.
2. The output capacitor mod is a little more complicated only because polypropylene film capacitors are huge and need to be mounted to the chassis somehow. Be creative. These replace the blue 100 uF capacitors that go on the terminals between the tube sockets; just wire it into whatever terminals those capacitors sit in now. Note that film caps are non-polar and so you don't need to pay attention to which lead goes where like you do with electrolytic caps that have a positive and negative. This improves resolution, clarity, dynamics, basically everything across the board, since those crappy electrolytics are directly in the signal path. I used Dayton polypropylene caps from partsexpress.
3. Tube upgrades are critical. I highly recommend picking up a 6SN7 adapter from Garage1217 and using a 6SN7 tube to replace the stock 12AU7. 6SN7 are more linear (read: superior) tubes and the difference in soundstaging, separation and imaging is quite notable. They're also a drop-in so you don't need to change out resistors to get the proper biasing. I've had great results with the Raytheon 6SN7/VT231. As for the power tube, there are a lot of options out there, but the Tung-Sol 5998 is a clear step above the rest across the board. It also has a lower output impedance than most 6080 tubes. For budget options I highly recommend the Sylvania Winged-C 6H13C or RCA 6AS7G.
4. Power supply fuckery. The Triad C-7X inductor replaces one of the ceramic resistors in the power supply (doesn't so much matter which iirc). Mounting it requires some creativity, but once it's in you'll never look back. This also improves the efficiency of the power supply (since we've removed a resistor), making it possible to replace the last 220uF electrolytic cap in the power supply with a 100uF polypropylene film cap similar to the output coupling capacitors. I went for a panasonic cap here vs the audio-grade Dayton caps, as this one isn't directly in the signal path. I did both of these upgrades at once after all the above and to be honest the difference is NOT small. It sounds like a different amplifier, in that I am hearing new details, textures, sounds presented in ways that I've never heard before. Yuge improvement.
Now, don't ask me for more info on Crack mods. All of this and more is available on the Crack forums.