Massdrop x Sennheiser HD 6XX Headphones Discussions | Drop

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Massdrop x Sennheiser HD 6XX Headphones

Audiophile

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sh1sh1

Dec 23, 2016

Any recommendations for a replacement cable? The supplied one's kind of noisy. And short.

Dec 23, 2016

dlbsyst

Dec 23, 2016

sh1sh1I agree that the cable is too short. What kind of noise are you hearing? This is the oem cable for the HD 650. Its the best price I could find. Sennheiser is out of stock. http://www.ebay.com/itm/331621771972?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Dec 23, 2016

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tessierpg

Dec 23, 2016

sh1sh1Just order the original 3meter cable from Sennheiser or else just buy an extension cable, you won't hear any difference with the extension cable if it's a normal gauge and normal quality cable

Dec 23, 2016

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iCeOL8TRAmnesia

132

Dec 23, 2016

sh1sh1Get a Hakko fx-888(these go on deal for 70 at Fry's every few months)(its already on deal again https://slickdeals.net/f/9583596-hakko-fx-888d-soldering-iron-station-69-w-fs-frys-emailed-code-req-d?v=1) and tip cleaner machine(Hakko FT-700) with brass brushes(used on ebay) and tip cleaner paste(Hakko FS-100-01). Get 5% silver solder audiophile grade off ebay or Cardas Tri or Quad Eutectic Tri is probably better sounding Quad is easier to work with you can get some windings off a spool on ebay for cheap or you can buy a whole spool but will be a chunk of change. Get 10M of .75mm2 OCC Silver Plated copper wire. I dont know where to get the Sennheiser Headphone connectors I haven't sourced them yet(they are different on the 6XXs than I have ever seen before they look like trs but they are just indented pins. Metro sourced(no these are only made by CARDAS I think so there probably is no cheaper option than parts connexion):http://www.partsconnexion.com/CARDAS-71677.html Get a Pailiccs TRS jack they have a large assortment check their website and selection on ebay. Anyone got TRS jack suggestions or wire suggestions? ALLOT OF THIS EBAY STUFF COMES FROM CHINA OR ASIA AND WILL TAKE 2 WEEKS TO GET TO YOU BUT ITS THE BEST QUALITY AND CHEAPEST WAY TO MAKE MANY CABLES. IF YOU WANT CHEAP SPEAKER WIRE YOU WILL HAVE TO GET INTO TAOBAO AND TAOBAO AGENTS(UNLESS THEY ADDED CHEAP US SHIPPING WHICH IS COMING BUT I DOUBT THEY HAVE IT YET) Solder the connections; there are diagrams, Google Image search Pailiccs and find the trs soldering guide pics or test for continuity with any continuity tester or get this https://www.amazon.com/Extech-TK430-Piece-Electric-Test/dp/B000BF39XY Has the best bang for the buck meter the Extech 430 and has a clamp ammeter so you can fix your airconditioner and a voltage tester for when you need to install wiring or replace a ceiling fan(which these are the number one home uses for a meter and kit and its better to get the whole kit at once and cheaper then buying the meter and deciding you wanted to fix other things around your house later). Clamp ammeter is the best way to check a high voltage or power wire or motor lead to see if the motor(blower, condenser fan, sprinkler pump, pool pump motors etc etc etc) is running in power spec for troubleshooting. Solder the first connector then braid the 4wires with 2 ground wires you will have to braid a Y yoke where each headphone splits you can also decide if you want balanced(if you have a balanced amp using the connectors it has(often xlr)) after the 4 wires split into the y for the yolk you only have 2 wires for each branch with 75mm2 OCC Silver Plated copper wire it has a semi(pretty) stiff teflon jacket its slightly uncomfortable but it sounds great but a benefit of it is when you are left with the 2 branches you can just gently grip and clamp the ends with a power drill chuck and then twist them and if you twist enough(not too much) they will hold the twist as its not economical to braid 2 wires you just twist them make sure each side has the same twist density and realise they will spring back a bit . As you braid(the main trunk section) make sure the braid is tight by always bringing the 3 wires at right angles to each other after you cross over so one wire should be pointing down one should be pointing straight left and one straight right all 90 degrees from each other every time between every wire cross in the braid(there are braiding image guides on google images or audiophile forums like Head-Fi) this makes it easier to keep the braiding more uniform you may have to undo your braid several times until you get good at it. This is the most time consuming and hardest part. Soldering is not about sticking metal on metal its about applying flux to parts. Its good to have a big jar of jelly or liquid flux with a brush or in a needle bottle. You apply the flux to the parts that are to be soldered then you heat the soldering iron put solder on it when its new then apply solder to the tip then put the solder on the parts and the solder will replace the flux. Thats the secret to soldering the way to look at is you are not sticking metal hot liquid to metal parts you are replacing flux and it will reflow into the gaps that were slathered in flux. Normally they tell you flux cleans the part but to someone new this creates a misconception in what is happening or the reason you always have to flux. You look at the parts and you say they look clean to me but this is not on the microscopic level that oils and other contaminants can live on a surface or oxidation. Thus yes the flux cleans the part but only while its wet once it dries the part can very quickly become no longer clean or oxidized the same thing can happen if you burn or overheat it. Thus the flux slathers and cleans the metal surfaces allowing the solder to stick in its place now you can understand why they tell you about flux and that it cleans. After you use the soldering iron for the first time it will oxidize with burnt material from the air and the solder flux in the solder. When solder will no longer stick to it or you wish to change solder or you want a very clean uncontaminated joint(like in high quality audio soldering) you will want the hakko tip cleaner paste(Hakko FS-100-01) tin this is hard to find and you will have to order it online as frys is always out of this stuff at the local store. You put the tip in the tip cleaner paste(you only have to do this like once every year or 6 months it lasts a long time) then you put it in the brass rotating brushes of the hakko tip cleaner(Hakko FT-700) and the tip will come out looking like brand new and shiny and solder will stick to it again. After using the paste all you have to do when the tip is dirty again is put it in the brass brushes while still hot and it will clean the tip back to that shiny state there is no need to use paste everytime infact I find I only have to use the paste once and then for months all I need are the brass brushes. When soldering it is considered good technique to work very quickly and get it right the first time and you have to heat both parts before you apply solder(well u dont have to but thats the proper technique) but this quickly leads you to the realization that you need 3 or 4 hands to accomplish this in all situations this is where the third hand alligator clip device comes in(these suck) or one of those cheap aluminum chinese articulating head vices off ebay for 15 bucks(I like these better). So you can clamp the connector and then just deal with the wire, iron, and solder. You also want to use an economic application as little solder as possible to coat between the 2 parts without a cold joint(watch soldering instruction online pic courses or google image images of cold joint blobs) which is improper heating/cooling and crystallization of the solder but at first just worry about the 2 parts being connected without shorting to other contacts and without heating the parts forever and causing the plastic dividers within the trs jack to melt. Cheapest Vices if you really tight on money these dont have articulating head http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&LH_BIN=1&_sop=15&_nkw=aluminum+vice&rt=nc Articulating head Vice that I like http://www.ebay.com/itm/Portable-Aluminium-Alloy-Bench-Clamp-Vice-360-Rotate-Electric-Drill-Holder-J8A7-/361476465625?hash=item5429ad23d9:g:AG0AAOSwX~dWpgk~ Cheapest Clear HeatShrink Pack http://www.ebay.com/itm/150PCS-Transparent-Polyolefin-2-1-A-Heat-Shrink-Tubing-Tubes-Sleeving-Wrap-Kits-/231949606072?hash=item3601461cb8:g:VjIAAOSwf05XPB5w 5 second Fix - this stuff stinks when you make it react but its faster and easier to work with and build and fill with than any other glue or superglue its not very strong tho I mainly use it for insulation(wire lead and contact separation) and for filling inside connectors so the wires dont move in there and short to the housing Get the Pen and the refill http://www.ebay.com/itm/Quick-5-Second-Fix-UV-Light-Repair-Tool-Glue-Refill-Liquid-Plastic-Welding-Kit-/272303856163?var=&hash=item3f66931a23:m:mRGTfBCTx1khxROPJWXc48w If you just want refills http://www.ebay.com/itm/Quick-5-Second-Fix-UV-Light-Repair-Tool-Glue-Refill-Liquid-Plastic-Welding-Set-/401136717526?var=&hash=item5d659c8ed6:m:mwnkrefbYN0Vg9x-JFnAQRA Get a clear 2:1 polyolefin heat shrink pack off ebay with assorted sizes find the cheapest one using the sort feature and buy it now auction elimination button. Always put on the heat shrink before soldering the other connector on the wire and test for continuity after construction you may have to redo things also test as you put stress on the connector that its not shorting(from overheating it). Soldering to pailiccs connectors is not easy especially the compact ones but it is also a great way to learn. They will sound amazing there is no need for shielding. Get 5 second fix pens(this stuff only hardens if exposed directly by the ultraviolet led thus it can only glue between translucent or transparent objects or a mass of itself) off ebay and glue cartridges incase you need to make some fast insulation or fill a void somewhere within in a connection or to keep wire leads from contacting each other make sure the connectors dont short when screwing the housings around the wires keep your solder contacts and wires very straight and dont let them protrude in the way of the screw on housing(any contact of a protruding solder blob to the housing will cause a short to the ground wires). Now you can make cables for everything and save yourself allot of money and or have higher quality sound on the cheap.

Dec 23, 2016

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sh1sh1

Dec 23, 2016

dlbsystThe noise is the cable scraping on things like my collar, or tapping on the table. Being so short is actually helpful because it can usually just hang between my amp and my head without touching anything -- unless I lean forward or turn my head too far.

Dec 23, 2016

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dlbsyst

Dec 23, 2016

sh1sh1ok, I understand. I actually thought, when you said "noise" you talking about hiss or crackle, etc. carried through the cable. This is the extension that I picked up. They also have a 25 foot one. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/408058-REG/Hosa_Technology_HPE_310_Stereo_1_4_Female_Phone.html/prm/alsVwDtl

Dec 23, 2016

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Metro

Dec 23, 2016

iCeOL8TRAmnesia"I dont know where to get the Sennheiser Headphone connectors" — they are readily available, just Google search: http://www.partsconnexion.com/CARDAS-71677.html

Dec 23, 2016

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Abbles

Dec 23, 2016

sh1sh1I'm going to be making some longer braided cords myself if anyway wants one. I'm terminating with standard 1/4 inch, or 4 pin XLR, if anyone is interested in that.

Dec 23, 2016

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iCeOL8TRAmnesia

132

Dec 23, 2016

MetroCardas is usually pricey, are these the actual connectors used? I see small differences in the stress relief of the ones on mine and those Cardas(the stress relief pattern looks more rounded on the Cardas).... I bet there is a cheaper option out there but thank you for at least a part from somewhere(also you can depend on Cardas quality).

Dec 23, 2016

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Metro

Dec 23, 2016

iCeOL8TRAmnesiaIf you're asking whether these are the same connectors Sennheiser uses, the answer is no. Sennheiser makes their own and these are aftermarket. For years, people were making DIY cables by buying a Sennheiser cord and cutting off the connectors. Cardas came out with these and I too am surprised at the reasonable price. However, they appear to be standard quality, not an upscale premium product more typical of Cardas. I doubt there is another option — the market is too small to support it.

Dec 23, 2016

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iCeOL8TRAmnesia

132

Dec 24, 2016

MetroYeah I've had more time to read these look like Cardas only connectors which I'm surprised cause I dont think I've ever seen anything made with cardas only connectors. I wonder why Sennheiser likes them... They seem to snap together ok but usually there is some kind electricity or sonic thinking to all of Cardas' products watched a bunch of his sites videos right when he made that site. He got me into researching hydraulic crimping as well and now blue jeans has sonic welding I was thinking about doing microwelding with pure silver instead of soldering.

Dec 24, 2016

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sh1sh1

Dec 24, 2016

iCeOL8TRAmnesiaI think this is probably the direction I'm going, since I already own most of that... only, I don't fancy braiding my own cable, and I don't really like the look of it. Although I do have a good collection of 20AWG silicone hookup wire I could use. Very flexible and seems to damp mechanical noise OK. Really want to find something similar but mult-conductor. Will probably go Neutrik for the TRS (like my Ultrasones!), and found a $5 pair of Sennheiser connectors on aliexpress, but I'm not having much luck with multi-conductor cable. Nobody seems to rate the mechanical noise transmission properties of cables, so all I can do is stick religiously with silicone or hope someone makes a recommendation.

Dec 24, 2016

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