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payodpanda
958
May 23, 2017
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KTO1
113
May 23, 2017
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payodpandaThat polish work looks amazing! The shoe looks 10x better IMO. Is there any chance you could write brief instructions for some one who has only every polished all areas of a shoe evenly lol? Like which spots you hit with the dark, what you did with the lighter areas, and maybe what specific polishes you used? If it's not too much trouble =) Also, the guide says these fit true, but I really want to be sure before buying. Did you find that these were exactly like your brannock sizing, or was there slight variation? Thank you!!
payodpanda
958
May 24, 2017
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KTO1Thank you! Basically I looked at a lot of shoe patina photos, and looked at how my own leather goods have distressed over time. I simply tried to mimic how leather ages.
Leather darkens over time. The edges get much more darkening than the center does. With the shoes, I wanted the burnishing to be visible but not be super extreme.
I selected the following creams and waxes for the pair: (conditioner) Saphir Renovateur (cream) Saphir Pommadier #05 Dark brown (cream) Saphir Pommadier #01 Black (wax) Saphir Pate de Luxe #01 Black (wax) Saphir Pate de Luxe #02 Clear
Now the basic idea was to burnish the edges and leave the interiors untouched. - So start with applying Renovateur to the whole shoe, this will start you off with a decent sheen and the leather will look good as is. This is the only thing I did to the right shoe, and you can see there is definitely a sheen to it. - Then decide if you want to darken the overall color of the shoe or not. I did not want to. One thing to keep in mind is that generally you want to get gradients going in each continuous piece of leather (eg on the toe cap there is a gradient from tip to toe cap edge, on the vamp there is a gradient from toe cap edge to the facing stitches etc).
- Then start applying the darker brown cream on the uppers just above the soles, throughout the shoe, and spread it upwards. Where there are edges and seams, like near the toe cap, feather it up along the piece of leather that you want to be darker. - In my case, I want the tip of the shoe to be darker, so I feather up from the tip inwards on the toe cap. On the toe cap/vamp edge, I feather up along the vamp only because I want a dark->light gradient on the vamp. - The other major edge that's exposed is the neck, that goes down the facing (the V shape on the lacing). So start applying the dark brown cream there and feather it down towards the shoe. Make sure you brush the shoes regularly while applying the creams. Brush them HARD to make sure nothing is being caked on.
- Just like you did with the dark brown, repeat with an even darker shade. I used black cream cause that was the next darkest shade I had. Go easy on the creams, btw, don't put on too much at once. Now apply less black than you did the dark brown, and feather it down less. Your goal is to obtain a nice original color -> dark brown -> very dark brown / almost black color gradient.
- Once you're done with the creams, you can start applying waxes. You can definitely be more generous with the black wax since it'll just sit on top of the leather rather than permeate it. You can also use the black wax to act as a gradient between the parts with black cream and the parts with dark brown. Waxes have less pigments than creams so they can be used effectively to smooth out gradients along with giving you a nice shine. - When you're happy with the overall color, apply a layer or two of neutral wax throughout the shoe to give a nice shine overall. Otherwise simply apply to the toes and heels. This is your preference.
I think that's it! Let me see if I can add some photos to explain what I mean by each step.
If the shoe were my own, I would've lightened the shoe overall a little by using Saphir Reno Mat, brushing it on rather than applying with a cloth to give a lightly brushed-on look that I like with patina shoes. Then I would've repeated the steps above.
As for your sizing question, unfortunately these shoes are not my size, they'll be going to another person after me. Generally speaking, my feet are FAR from "standard" true to size. What I CAN do is compare with other typical lasts that people usually compare to. Carmina Rain last (same as this shoe, standard width): UK 8.0 // I wish the instep were a little lower Carmina Simpson last: UK 8.5 // Almost perfect. Maybe 8.25 would be good for me Allen Edmonds 65 / 5 last: US 10.5B // this is my Brannock size Yanko 915 last: UK 8.0 // VERY similar to Carmina's Rain. I think Rain is basically the Yanko 915 changed a little here and there Enzo Bonafe 946 last: UK 8.0 // Shorter in length than Rain, higher instep than Rain
I hope this was helpful! Sorry I can't help too much with sizing.
Leather darkens over time. The edges get much more darkening than the center does. With the shoes, I wanted the burnishing to be visible but not be super extreme.
I selected the following creams and waxes for the pair: (conditioner) Saphir Renovateur (cream) Saphir Pommadier #05 Dark brown (cream) Saphir Pommadier #01 Black (wax) Saphir Pate de Luxe #01 Black (wax) Saphir Pate de Luxe #02 Clear
Now the basic idea was to burnish the edges and leave the interiors untouched. - So start with applying Renovateur to the whole shoe, this will start you off with a decent sheen and the leather will look good as is. This is the only thing I did to the right shoe, and you can see there is definitely a sheen to it. - Then decide if you want to darken the overall color of the shoe or not. I did not want to. One thing to keep in mind is that generally you want to get gradients going in each continuous piece of leather (eg on the toe cap there is a gradient from tip to toe cap edge, on the vamp there is a gradient from toe cap edge to the facing stitches etc).
- Then start applying the darker brown cream on the uppers just above the soles, throughout the shoe, and spread it upwards. Where there are edges and seams, like near the toe cap, feather it up along the piece of leather that you want to be darker. - In my case, I want the tip of the shoe to be darker, so I feather up from the tip inwards on the toe cap. On the toe cap/vamp edge, I feather up along the vamp only because I want a dark->light gradient on the vamp. - The other major edge that's exposed is the neck, that goes down the facing (the V shape on the lacing). So start applying the dark brown cream there and feather it down towards the shoe. Make sure you brush the shoes regularly while applying the creams. Brush them HARD to make sure nothing is being caked on.
- Just like you did with the dark brown, repeat with an even darker shade. I used black cream cause that was the next darkest shade I had. Go easy on the creams, btw, don't put on too much at once. Now apply less black than you did the dark brown, and feather it down less. Your goal is to obtain a nice original color -> dark brown -> very dark brown / almost black color gradient.
- Once you're done with the creams, you can start applying waxes. You can definitely be more generous with the black wax since it'll just sit on top of the leather rather than permeate it. You can also use the black wax to act as a gradient between the parts with black cream and the parts with dark brown. Waxes have less pigments than creams so they can be used effectively to smooth out gradients along with giving you a nice shine. - When you're happy with the overall color, apply a layer or two of neutral wax throughout the shoe to give a nice shine overall. Otherwise simply apply to the toes and heels. This is your preference.
I think that's it! Let me see if I can add some photos to explain what I mean by each step.
If the shoe were my own, I would've lightened the shoe overall a little by using Saphir Reno Mat, brushing it on rather than applying with a cloth to give a lightly brushed-on look that I like with patina shoes. Then I would've repeated the steps above.
As for your sizing question, unfortunately these shoes are not my size, they'll be going to another person after me. Generally speaking, my feet are FAR from "standard" true to size. What I CAN do is compare with other typical lasts that people usually compare to. Carmina Rain last (same as this shoe, standard width): UK 8.0 // I wish the instep were a little lower Carmina Simpson last: UK 8.5 // Almost perfect. Maybe 8.25 would be good for me Allen Edmonds 65 / 5 last: US 10.5B // this is my Brannock size Yanko 915 last: UK 8.0 // VERY similar to Carmina's Rain. I think Rain is basically the Yanko 915 changed a little here and there Enzo Bonafe 946 last: UK 8.0 // Shorter in length than Rain, higher instep than Rain
I hope this was helpful! Sorry I can't help too much with sizing.
DDDA
14
May 24, 2017
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payodpandaSo you can fit both AE 5 last 10.5B and Rain 9D(8UK)? It's odd imho...
payodpanda
958
May 24, 2017
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DDDAHaha, wait till you hear my size in Grenson Dylans--UK 7.0
So I have low volume, narrow feet. So, low width, low instep. I also have relatively shorter toes. Usually, when you go up a width, you have to size down half in the size. So for standard width, my size in the AE 5 last would be US 9.5D. Rain however has a high instep, so 9.5 would be a little too big. Thankfully though I have relatively short toes so I can size down half to fit US 9.0 (UK 8.0).
Now what IS surprising is I wear UK 8.5 on the Simpson, which most people can't even get their feet into cause it's that narrow. I would've assumed my Simpson size would be ~UK 9.0, but no, Panda's gotta have weird feet. The only maker whose shoes fit me PROPERLY is Antonio Meccariello.
So I have low volume, narrow feet. So, low width, low instep. I also have relatively shorter toes. Usually, when you go up a width, you have to size down half in the size. So for standard width, my size in the AE 5 last would be US 9.5D. Rain however has a high instep, so 9.5 would be a little too big. Thankfully though I have relatively short toes so I can size down half to fit US 9.0 (UK 8.0).
Now what IS surprising is I wear UK 8.5 on the Simpson, which most people can't even get their feet into cause it's that narrow. I would've assumed my Simpson size would be ~UK 9.0, but no, Panda's gotta have weird feet. The only maker whose shoes fit me PROPERLY is Antonio Meccariello.
KTO1
113
May 24, 2017
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payodpandaWow, thank you so much for the time you took writing that up. I just took a screen-shot of it lol. I've mostly just been using venetian cream and kiwi waxes, which do allow me to get a mirror polish; but I've never tried antiquing a finish before, and I'd like to. I'll purchase those Saphir products on their next drop, and pretty much try to replicate exactly what you've described. Thanks again! Just out of curiosity, do you know your brannock size?
payodpanda
958
May 25, 2017
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KTO1No worries, I love showing off haha
My Brannock size is US 10.5B. I have weird feet (ie way off the "standard") so I'd advise you to not base your sizing decisions on my experiences.
About the shoe care products, I haven't used anything other than Saphir from the get go but honestly I don't think you need to buy more creams or waxes for this. I feel that Renovateur is a good investment (that's leather conditioner and cleaner) but I think you can keep using your Kiwi / other company creams and polishes.
Above all, don't be afraid to experiment and HAVE FUN. I just made up my mind as I was going through the process. Great thing about creams and waxes is that you can always reverse it. Do get a leather cleaner like the Saphir Renomat though it'll make it easier to experiment cause you can undo your mistakes.
My Brannock size is US 10.5B. I have weird feet (ie way off the "standard") so I'd advise you to not base your sizing decisions on my experiences.
About the shoe care products, I haven't used anything other than Saphir from the get go but honestly I don't think you need to buy more creams or waxes for this. I feel that Renovateur is a good investment (that's leather conditioner and cleaner) but I think you can keep using your Kiwi / other company creams and polishes.
Above all, don't be afraid to experiment and HAVE FUN. I just made up my mind as I was going through the process. Great thing about creams and waxes is that you can always reverse it. Do get a leather cleaner like the Saphir Renomat though it'll make it easier to experiment cause you can undo your mistakes.
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So I did a bit of an experiment with the samples I got. I wanted to see how much of a difference I could create with creams and waxes, so I did an applied patina / fake distressing with what I had. I can definitely say that the shoe looks and feels very different now. So if you're not a fan of a plain brown shoe, this can definitely be made to look more "interesting" if that's your thing. The effects can be more or less subtle than what I'm showing in these photos, just work more or less with darker colored creams depending on your preference. I did not go for a mirror shine, instead opting for a medium-high shine overall with slightly higher shine on the toe box.
Photos follow, taken in different lights--direct sunlight as well as ambient natural light. Straight from phone camera, no filters / post processing.
I would repeat that I feel that not only are these a great value for money, but they are also offered in multiple widths including the narrower width (which I haven't seen in the wild honestly), and that I personally see these as being very versatile. :)