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Bflying
1105
Mar 6, 2018
Ano technique test number......Ah, who am I kidding, I lost count long ago. 😂
Tried something new again today. Both the solution, and process. Gives kind of a grain look. Could have stayed within a color band, but wanted to push it for the "test" effect.
So, here's an EDC package.

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YabosMcGee
338
Mar 13, 2018
BflyingDo you have any walkthroughs on your various anodizing tests? I'm thinking of trying it out myself.
Bflying
1105
Mar 13, 2018
YabosMcGeeUnfortunately I don't. Wish I would have video'd some of them. I did take still shots on a few peices at random intervals from 5 to 110 volts. Makes for a boatload of pics with small variations. But the colors are sometimes skewed when the item spends more overall time in the fluid, rather than taking a clean peice right to the final voltage. Usually makes a more dull overall color.
But the grained effect above was done by cranking the amperage on the machine (mine is only 3 amps). Dip a very small section. You can sometimes hear a little sizzle. Then back out, adjust the voltage slightly, and re-dipped just past the last spot. If you are staying in a color band, you will just move the voltage up and down randomly. The items above were taken through the full scale. The clip on the Kizer below (in the middle) was done between 90-100 volts, somewhat randomly.

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Bflying
1105
Mar 13, 2018
YabosMcGeeThere is a thread over on bladeforums.com that I started to chronicle my bare bones ano beginnings. And attempt an ongoing discussion to help crazy people like me, that are willing to sacrifice good knives, just to get a little cosmetic tweak.
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/anodizing-ti-diy-at-home.1457216/
Dhill21
181
Mar 16, 2018
BflyingDid you have to do any prep on the surface of the FF Falcon before anodizing, like sanding or dipping it in rust remover, or is it good to go as is?
Bflying
1105
Mar 16, 2018
Dhill21Yes. Sanded off the original bead blast (of the Falcon). Then dipped in Whink Rust Remover to etch a bit. Then into the electrolyte with voltage to hit desired color.
Dhill21
181
Mar 16, 2018
BflyingHey thanks for the reply! I already ordered the supplies; thinking I'll only do the backspacer and clip for now, the rest when I feel comfortable, but should be a cool contrast
Bflying
1105
Mar 17, 2018
Dhill21That's pretty much how I started. Play around with the accessory parts. Try doing the spacer as is. Take a pic so you remember what it looked like. Then next time sand down the finish, and re etch for a little texture.
Then take the clip off, and sand it smooth or buff polish it. If you sand it out to 2000-3000, or buff, you will get a completely different result. Say you get a medium to dark bronze on the original or etched surface using 1-2 9volt batteries on the spacer. Then use the same settings with the polished clip. You may end up with a bright gold or polished brass look.
In the end, just have fun with it. Cosmetic modifications are all about making the item "yours".
Dhill21
181
Mar 17, 2018
BflyingThanks, I literally watched a bunch of you tube videos and I see young kids anodizing, so it can't be too difficult. Seems getting the blue spectrum is pretty easy, so that's what I'll shoot for. So many techniques out there but I'm thinking of going with 9 volts and TSP or Distilled white vinegar.
Referring to your comment, are you saying you can get some sort of color change without sanding the piece down? Thanks.
Bflying
1105
Mar 17, 2018
Dhill21Pretty sure. But I hated the original texture so bad that I sanded almost immediately. I do however have a new one just land. I'll do some more testing as-is this time. I'm betting that I'll see the color spectrum morph the same way, but with very dark (muted) colors.
Dhill21
181
Mar 17, 2018
BflyingAhh cool to hear. I don't mind the chalky texture, but as it's been said many times, it does mark up easily.
Bflying
1105
Mar 17, 2018
Dhill21Ok, I took an au-nat-u-ral clip down to the shop for a little swim. Fresh out of the box, with only an alcohol wipedown. Full bead blast in place. Ran it from 8-100, then stripped bare. The strip in Whink not only eats the color, but also eats into the Ti a bit, giving an etch in prep for color. Then re-dipped mid voltage (50v), to see the difference after light etch.
As suspected, the color took, but was not brilliant. Some looked better than others. Also as I thought, the color from second pass at 50v after a little clean up etch was brighter than the first pass at 50v.
Interesting point of reference, check out the titanium wire hook in each pic. It is closer in color to what would be expected of a peice properly prepped and etched.

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Bflying
1105
Mar 17, 2018
BflyingAdditional pics.

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Bflying
1105
Mar 17, 2018
BflyingFinal pics.

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Dhill21
181
Mar 17, 2018
BflyingAwesome thanks for sharing, it is hard to tell the difference on some of the pictures but the blue on the 21.9 and the last green One look really cool
Bflying
1105
Mar 17, 2018
Dhill21Yeah, the colors just didn't pop. Were difficult to see in person too. What should have been done, would be to knock the bead blast down to some extent ( whether sandpaper, or even just a new Scotchbrite pad), then etch in Whink. This should give a bit more color depth. Remember, the color is not a coating of color, but rather light refraction seen through the crystalline growth on the surface. So the surface finish is a big part of the end result.
Dhill21
181
Mar 18, 2018
Bflyingright on thanks