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ShinyTiff
56
Mar 27, 2017
Can I have multiple layers with this?
Daed
574
Mar 29, 2017
ShinyTiffI'm afraid not. That's the only downside to this macropad, IMO. I've been using mine since the drop last Autumn, and I love it, but I've looked into putting a layerable firmware on it, and come up blank. If you could, this would be an unbelievable deal, instead of just a really good one. The upside is that it's a lot easier to use their firmware editor than it is to edit, compile, and flash QMK!
ShinyTiff
56
Mar 30, 2017
DaedThanks. It'd be the best macropad only if it was layerable, but it's still great. Maybe I should get myself a small pcb and build one to put layers.
Daed
574
Mar 30, 2017
ShinyTiffIf you're comfortable building on a PCB, you might want to try a handwire. Honestly, the most difficult part of handwiring is getting something to handwire ON... the plate to hold the switches. You could get something like the MAX switch tester (basically this without the board, on their website) or the Six Pack from 1upkeyboards, ad DIY it. I jumped in on faith with a generated CAD drawing and a steel plate cut by Lasergist and handwired my first board a couple months ago. It was a great learning experience. Now I'm working on a custom-fitted split-ergo board using steel and acrylic plates.
Or if you'd rather have a PCB, the Six Shooter from 1upkeyboards might be what you're looking for.
No affiliation between me and any of these companies... I'm just a happy customer :)
Daed
574
Mar 30, 2017
ShinyTiffOh, it looks like they haven't taken the Six (pack, shooter, etc.) kits live yet... that's a new product for 1up. I imagine they'll have it up soon.
ShinyTiff
56
Mar 30, 2017
DaedHaven't built any keyboards yet, except just soldering the switches, but I guess I could try. I was thinking of the PJRC, but if there is a sixes kit already, then that might be better option. Or I could use my Cooler Master 6-switch tester. Anyways, thanks you DIY master :) btw, can you tell me more about your split board(size, layout, etc)?
Daed
574
Mar 31, 2017
ShinyTiffMuch more Aspirant than Master ;).
For my custom, I started by putting my hand in a neutral, comfortable position on a piece of paper and tracing my fingertips, then moving them up and down and left and right, and tracing each spot. Scanned the sheet, drafted it up in AutoCAD, measured my comfortable width (18") and rotation (33.5 deg), and started making it work. I had to adjust the positions a little bit from ideal, because they were perfect for switches, but too close for keycaps to fit! Once I had a physical layout, I made it up as close as possible in Keyboard Layout Editor, and ended up with this: http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/#/gists/c2f3bd990419b8d98c87bfa9e10ec41a The numpad and macro clusters are pretty accurate, but the keyboard plates actually look like this: https://www.dropbox.com/s/qy9fm4dgktppzc0/Lasergist%20plates%20Model%20%281%29.pdf?dl=0
Still toying with the layout, and I haven't fleshed out all the macro buttons yet, but those are mostly going to be AutoCAD-oriented.
I drew up the switch plates and sent 'em out to Ponoko for acrylic cutting. Unfortunately, in making it work, I deleted a couple keys which turned out to be important for a QWERTY-esque layout. Didn't spot that before I sent it out for cutting. I made a couple other changes for practicality's sake, which is why the design I linked above is v3 :). Awaiting delivery of the latest iteration in stainless now! This is going to be a little tricky to wire, a lot moreso than an ortholinear, or even a staggered column layout.
I can't use the keyboard switch plates as intended, but I'm thinking about wiring them up still to use as a gamepad or something. I mean, I already have it cut! I broke the numpad plate, though. Failed experiment in thin acrylic switch plate so the switches can snap in, glued to a thick support plate. I didn't have enough support in the middle of the ten-key pad. So it turns out my entire acrylic order was a bust. I'll need to get another numpad plate cut, and probably go with stainless to match the new keyboard plates. I have a feeling I'm going to want to rotate the numpad, too. I don't think my wrist is going to like that angle. Shame, though... the thin-switch-plate-glued-to-a-thick-support-plate thing was working great. I just need a better structural design :).
I haven't designed the case yet... I still need to measure my preferred tenting angle and decide on a format and material... curved, angular, wood, acrylic, steel, etc. This is going to be big, though, so I think I'm going to incorporate a powered USB 3 hub. I'm even toying with the idea of putting a Raspberry Pi in there, so it can flash its own firmware!
ShinyTiff
56
Apr 1, 2017
DaedThanks for the really detailed explanation. Whoa. That's one(or should I say five?) amazing board(s)! This project must have cost you some money, and time.. but worthy, right? Looks, and sounds, very ergonomic :) Only recently I got to think about getting a split keyboard (but a small one) like CaraVan or Let's Split, bc I use the keyboard all day at work, and split boards would do less harm to my wrists. I guess there's no stopping in layout editing. I've been using Infinity keyboard since last summer, and still keep changing the bottom row this way and that, but not any satisfied me 100%. Stainless must be great, but I guess wood housing wood look sick either. What keycaps are you using, if you're interested in the keycaps too? I love the RPi idea, so that you can have a keyboard, which also works as a mini computer! (now you can carry a keyboard and a mini lcd instead of a laptop?) I'm also thinking about what I could do with keyboards and RPi/arduino.
Daed
574
Apr 5, 2017
ShinyTiffYeah, there's a little bit of time and money in this project :). $4o on the blown acrylic, $70 on the steel plates (and another $40 or so, when I get the middle plate done)... $25 for another Teensy++ 2.0. I already have all the wire and solder and connectors and such. Still haven't given any thought to the body, though.
I'm a split addict. My wrists haven't liked standard boards for nearly 20 years now. I thought the ErgoDox would be perfect, because the angle could be whatever I want it to be, but it turns out I just keep sliding them around and ending up off. That's why this project is going to have fixed angles. It's all just a big experiment, really. Hey, maybe if it works out, I'll start charging immoral amounts of money for a bespoke keyboard design service ;)
I've there's an end to layout editing, I haven't found it yet. The only thing holding me back is what a pain it is to flash firmware on a Windows machine. I brought a Raspberry Pi into work for that purpose, because my work system is locked down -- it thinks dev software is malware.
As for caps, I've been lusting after Carbon since I first saw it. I have the Tai Hao knockoff set on order, but rumor has it Signature Plastics will be doing another production run, supposedly going up for pre-order this summer. If at all possible, that's what this board will be wearing :).
ShinyTiff
56
Apr 14, 2017
DaedToo bad that ergodox disappointed you, but in a sense it seems it gave you a chance to start the project :) You should really start a keeb design service if this one works out well... I'm all for new keeb designs. Not that existing keebs are bad but for diversity. Hope I can read the build log or anything similar, if ur gonna post it anywhere.
I am a mini keeb addict. All started from an Infinity, now heading to planck, and probably JD45. Wanted to get a minivan but recently the price roared ;/
P.s. Go Linux lul
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