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Is a stabiliser included/needed? It's not included, nor is it needed! I recommend not using one.
What USB cord does it take? It uses USB Mini, and comes with a white cable.
Can I get exclude/just get part x? I have the older milled bottoms, older plates, and PCBs on sale on the store: https://olkb.com - we're also looking at doing a drop for just the cases in the future.
Can I get this pre-built? Not yet! This drop is only for the kit, but we're looking into offering assembled versions next time.
How do I choose MIT or Grid? All options (plate, keycaps, keyswitches, PCB) are compatible with both the MIT and Grid layout, so you don't have to choose that before building it.
What's the sleeve look like? Something like this! We may change the velcro to black.
Will RGB LEDs work with this? Not with the in-switch LEDs, but you can wire an RGB strip underneath as an ambient light if you like (there are pads for those, and it's supported by the firmware)!
When's the Preonic/Subatomic drop? The Preonic (5x12) drop is up next, but we'll need to finalise the details for the Planck first. The Subatomic (5x14) is after that, but it's still being designed.
I don't suppose there's even a hint of an expected timeline on the subatomic, @jackhumbert ? ;-)
The Subatomic to drop this soon as well? And I was only eyeing a Planck and Preonic. Doesn't make senses to stop at two right when you can have all three.
Rip wallet....
http://www.switchtop.com/product/2x3x4mm-leds
I got the green ones. I also used the sip sockets from ther Switch Top.
Back to the in switch LEDs. If you have a clear housing like Gaterons you can mount the LED inside the switch housing. You can remove the switch top with this option, but have to desolder to change the LEDs out. I have Cherry MX Ergo Clears (black switch housing) so surface mount was my only option. This is why I used SIP sockets. They allow you to remove the LEDs without desoldering so the top can be removed. Not that I really expect to need to, but I can also change the LED color if it suits me. If you go with SIP sockets make sure they are of the long leg variety (Switch Top's are). The short ones are hard to solder in. Cheers!
Edit: I should add that RGB strips don't really work with the milled aluminum bottom only a sandwich style case kinda like this: http://www.40percent.club/2016_09_01_archive.html (Not a planck. couldn't find one in short order)
If you go the Holtite route and you are using switch mounted LEDs, you will need Holtites for your switches and for your LEDs which are not the same size. You would not be able to use SIP sockets. I have not tried Holtites myself on any projects, but I read a post of someone that did. I seem to remember him saying that he had to "tack" the Holtite on the PCB because the holes on the PCB are little big. The trick is to solder the holtite on without getting solder inside it. It was either on the OLKB subreddit or mechanical keyboards subreddit.
Before the goods arrived I looked for a way to set up 'planck layers(key mapping)' on your homepage. But it seems to be too difficult because it is explained only in writing. I think it would be nice to have a picture or a video.
https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/3ad258/a_complete_noobs_guide_to_programming_your_planck/
Haven't seen a drop for it.