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Trending Posts in Mechanical Keyboards
dvorcol
Support for Alternative Layouts
This is a summary of how alternative layouts have been supported by kits such as Colevrak and Homing. It is not a discussion of alt layout performance and development, but if that interests you I highly recommend starting with Pascal Getreuer’s A guide to alt keyboard layouts (why, how, which one?). It’s a concise and comprehensive overview with links to some great sites that go deeper. He also has a separate Links about keyboards page. The Keyboard layouts doc he recommends explains layout goals and metrics in detail, summarizing the alt layouts discussed here as well as more than one hundred others. Sculpted-profile The majority of custom keycap sets are sculpted-profile (Cherry, SA, MT3, KAT, etc. - more on profiles generally here) so let’s start there. Because each row has a unique keycap shape, alt layouts require a unique keycap for each legend that moves off its QWERTY row. At first there were two The Dvorak layout was patented in 1936 by August Dvorak & William L....
Apr 23, 2024
CousinTimmy
Promo codes for stack Macropad v2
is there any promo codes right now that work with the STACK OVERFLOW THE KEY V2 MACROPAD? link:https://drop.com/buy/stack-overflow-the-key-v2-macropad?searchId=ead314359856d5486d35f4713cff32e9
Apr 23, 2024
Robbedoes
*Help* Screw in stabilizers not fitting in Dropshift V2 keyboard
I'm trying to build a mechanical keyboard with screw in stabilizers, I've build some mechanical keyboards with click-in stabilizers, never with screw in. Somehow one of the pins of the metal top-part collides with the screw in stabilizer of the numpad "enter key". I already tried grinding of a bit of the pin that collides with the stabilizer, but unfortunately I can't make it fit/close properly. You can see that the pin of the toppart leaves a mark on the bottompart of the stabilizer, see picture 2. What am I missing? Using Durock V2 in a Dropshift fullsize V2. See pictures below, thanks in advance!
Apr 23, 2024
Fukyachickennuggets
Polymer clay
Don't drop crazy cash on custom wood builds! Instead go buy polymer clay and paint. Then you can spend a ridiculous amount of time trying to make it look like you can afford to drop crazy cash on...
Apr 22, 2024
GrEEdYY
HELP PLEASE!
HELP PLEASE! I put noise insulation in the keyboard and after that it stopped working, the only sign of life is 5 blinks of orange light.can do something about it? model:DROP ALTv1
Apr 22, 2024
Durazell
Want to build a Clicky Mech Keyboard. Where to begin?
Hello all. Am brand new to the idea of building my own keyboard. Have not a clue where to begin this process. I am a Sim Game enthusiast. American Truck Sim, DCS Flight Sim and goes from there. Need some real help on where to start for making my own Full Size, Clickey Mechanical KB. I want each key to have its own backlighting. Are there keys that are better than others for this? Is there a great spot on site for a person who has never even taken a keyboard apart? Let alone fixed or built one? I would like it to fit my theme of Red and Black. Yet maybe have the option of changing things up a bit. Any help at all would be greatly appreciated. Thank you all kindly, Durazell
Apr 20, 2024
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Seems like I lucked out, as I didn't have many issues that others are seeing. All my switches (Cherry MX White) fit fine, and all of them function fine when soldered. One side of my top plate had serious scratch and burn marks, but the other side was almost perfect (didn't realize the top plate finish would be brushed metal either, but whatever). My only fitting issue was the PCB stabilizers not fitting without some resistance to the top plate. I ending up pushed down with force and scratched off some plastic off the stabilizers. Not that big a deal for me, but it was a bit worrying when I was trying initially to test fit and couldn't get it to work.
The keyboard is heavier than expected, and I also didn't realize the bottom was supposed to be anodized when it honestly feels powdercoated. Not even a good powdercoat, since the finish on mine feels really rough, and a portion of the inner part where the PCB lies didn't get evenly coated. It doesn't affect the look, but it was disappointing to see that QC wasn't exactly applied (unlike my Ergodox kit which I was very satisfied with).
The finish of the bottom case looks nowhere near as nice as it does on the picture during the drop. Also, whoever milled the K's on the lettering on the bottom never bothered to clean them up, as there's clearly excess aluminum that was milled on the right side of the letter that pushed over to the left side and was never cleaned up. I'd remove it myself, but I'm afraid if I do then I'd also remove the powdercoated section of the letter, and I definitely don't want a half silver/half painted letter.
Have still yet to figure out what the default layout is, and how to reprogram the thing. I've read a few guides, but I don't exactly have coding experience, and can't find the ATMega32U4 driver anywhere to properly install on Windows.
Overall satisfied with the build, it took me less than an hour to unpack and fully solder/assemble the keyboard which was nice. I now want a Planck for myself too, but I don't think I could go with another drop unless the QC/finer details are sorted and hammered out. Only then would I consider joining another Planck drop.