Support for Alternative Layouts
This is a summary of how alternative layouts have been supported by kits such as Colevrak and Homing. It is not a discussion of alt layout performance and development, but if that interests you I highly recommend starting with Pascal Getreuer’s A guide to alt keyboard layouts (why, how, which one?). It’s a concise and comprehensive overview with links to some great sites that go deeper. He also has a separate Links about keyboards page. The Keyboard layouts doc he recommends explains layout goals and metrics in detail, summarizing the alt layouts discussed here as well as more than one hundred others. Sculpted-profile The majority of custom keycap sets are sculpted-profile (Cherry, SA, MT3, KAT, etc. - more on profiles generally here) so let’s start there. Because each row has a unique keycap shape, alt layouts require a unique keycap for each legend that moves off its QWERTY row. At first there were two The Dvorak layout was patented in 1936 by August Dvorak & William L....
Apr 23, 2024
I've actually just begun my journey to collect them as my first was the "Deal with it Jack" Binge cap on my Realforce Numpad, #2 is going to be my Vader cap but due to weather it might not arrive until Monday, it was scheduled for Saturday but Storm Jonas isn't giving the East coast a break.
Did you grease the stabilizers and clips on your board yet? Do it man. It's worth the little bit of effort.
So glad this board finally came in. I think I'll finally install the software. You said it's in English now. So that makes it easy.
So i had to dig all over just to find my external dvd drive lol... this digital age!
+ I don't know to much about these boards to even know where to begin about the greasing and stuff yet.
Remove the SHIFT, ENTER, BACKSPACE and CAPS keys slowly and with a steady hand pull them directly up until they can't, but not forcibly. There are 2 plastic hook mounts under each cap in the female stem underneath that are attached to a hard metal wire. This is the stabilizer bar. Push the cap to the right side until the left hook comes out from the metal wire. Once all caps are removed you can grease.
Take a toothpick and small plate, put a drop of grease down. Dip the pick and get a very small amount on the end. Apply the grease to the joint areas that are attached to the bar on the actual keyboard and rotate the wire forward and back until it is properly greased. Do not use too much, just smoother it a bit. Apply grease to the plastic hook stems under the cap in the gap that the bar slides through.Reattach the caps by hooking one side first and then the other side, be careful and take your time. Once you learn how, it becomes natural. WIth this grease you may need to only reapply it once a year but I don't know.
Google it if you're unsure about anything.
But I definitely see what you mean now.