Support for Alternative Layouts
This is a summary of how alternative layouts have been supported by kits such as Colevrak and Homing. It is not a discussion of alt layout performance and development, but if that interests you I highly recommend starting with Pascal Getreuer’s A guide to alt keyboard layouts (why, how, which one?). It’s a concise and comprehensive overview with links to some great sites that go deeper. He also has a separate Links about keyboards page. The Keyboard layouts doc he recommends explains layout goals and metrics in detail, summarizing the alt layouts discussed here as well as more than one hundred others. Sculpted-profile The majority of custom keycap sets are sculpted-profile (Cherry, SA, MT3, KAT, etc. - more on profiles generally here) so let’s start there. Because each row has a unique keycap shape, alt layouts require a unique keycap for each legend that moves off its QWERTY row. At first there were two The Dvorak layout was patented in 1936 by August Dvorak & William L....
Apr 23, 2024
It’s currently my second-favorite keyboard, after the HHKB Type S that I use as my daily driver. In some ways, I even like it better: the Matias Linear switches feel more responsive, like they actuate higher up the keypress than the Topre 45g switches in the HHKB. I like the light key-feel, and the keyboard is very quiet compared to my Matias Tactile Pro (with the clicky tactile Matias switches). The dip-switches give some good layout options, and with a bit of work in Karabiner, it’s very much like the HHKB now. Also works with a USB adapter on my iPad, which the HHKB doesn’t.
If I have a gripe with this, it’s that some of the keys are a bit squeaky and rattly. The space bar is squeaky, and right shift rattles. Not sure if this is something to do with the stabilizers. I also miss my usual PBT keycaps—my fingers feel sweaty typing on this now. Good value, though, at the USD 89.99 I paid for it, ex. shipping. Would recommend as a way to try Matias Linear switches.
KBParadise support asked me to try a firmware upgrade, but the utility they provided reported an error (“could not connect to chip”). Their remedies suggested were:
- Solder new switches (provided by them) into board (not acceptable as I don’t know how to solder and don’t have the equipment; also doesn’t really make sense for a non-kit product) - Send board back to them at my expense (with palm rest or keychain offered as compensation)
Neither of these are acceptable to me, particularly as I would lose more money (in time lost) in doing these as I have spent on the keyboard. Returning the keyboard to me in Thailand (for example) would likely also incur further costs in customs duties, because of the unfortunate import-tax regime here.
It’s a disappointing outcome, as I really like the keyboard, but it ought to have worked first time, or have been replaced if defective with minimal work and expense on my part.
usually works for me. if this doesn't help try opening the top of the switch with two toothpicks (you can find the method online, search for ALPS top-mod toothpick), then dip a q-tip in isopropyl alcohol and carefully clean the metal contacts. you can even try bending them a little apart from each other, but be extra careful. then re-attach the switch.
had to do this with 2-3 switches but aside from that the board is perfect. of course i also dampener-modded mine, but that's another story.