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dvorcol
Support for Alternative Layouts
This is a summary of how alternative layouts have been supported by kits such as Colevrak and Homing. It is not a discussion of alt layout performance and development, but if that interests you I highly recommend starting with Pascal Getreuer’s A guide to alt keyboard layouts (why, how, which one?). It’s a concise and comprehensive overview with links to some great sites that go deeper. He also has a separate Links about keyboards page. The Keyboard layouts doc he recommends explains layout goals and metrics in detail, summarizing the alt layouts discussed here as well as more than one hundred others. Sculpted-profile The majority of custom keycap sets are sculpted-profile (Cherry, SA, MT3, KAT, etc. - more on profiles generally here) so let’s start there. Because each row has a unique keycap shape, alt layouts require a unique keycap for each legend that moves off its QWERTY row. At first there were two The Dvorak layout was patented in 1936 by August Dvorak & William L....
Apr 23, 2024
CousinTimmy
Promo codes for stack Macropad v2
is there any promo codes right now that work with the STACK OVERFLOW THE KEY V2 MACROPAD? link:https://drop.com/buy/stack-overflow-the-key-v2-macropad?searchId=ead314359856d5486d35f4713cff32e9
Apr 23, 2024
Robbedoes
*Help* Screw in stabilizers not fitting in Dropshift V2 keyboard
I'm trying to build a mechanical keyboard with screw in stabilizers, I've build some mechanical keyboards with click-in stabilizers, never with screw in. Somehow one of the pins of the metal top-part collides with the screw in stabilizer of the numpad "enter key". I already tried grinding of a bit of the pin that collides with the stabilizer, but unfortunately I can't make it fit/close properly. You can see that the pin of the toppart leaves a mark on the bottompart of the stabilizer, see picture 2. What am I missing? Using Durock V2 in a Dropshift fullsize V2. See pictures below, thanks in advance!
Apr 23, 2024
Fukyachickennuggets
Polymer clay
Don't drop crazy cash on custom wood builds! Instead go buy polymer clay and paint. Then you can spend a ridiculous amount of time trying to make it look like you can afford to drop crazy cash on...
Apr 22, 2024
GrEEdYY
HELP PLEASE!
HELP PLEASE! I put noise insulation in the keyboard and after that it stopped working, the only sign of life is 5 blinks of orange light.can do something about it? model:DROP ALTv1
Apr 22, 2024
Durazell
Want to build a Clicky Mech Keyboard. Where to begin?
Hello all. Am brand new to the idea of building my own keyboard. Have not a clue where to begin this process. I am a Sim Game enthusiast. American Truck Sim, DCS Flight Sim and goes from there. Need some real help on where to start for making my own Full Size, Clickey Mechanical KB. I want each key to have its own backlighting. Are there keys that are better than others for this? Is there a great spot on site for a person who has never even taken a keyboard apart? Let alone fixed or built one? I would like it to fit my theme of Red and Black. Yet maybe have the option of changing things up a bit. Any help at all would be greatly appreciated. Thank you all kindly, Durazell
Apr 20, 2024
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What I like: Feels really solid to type on and the TKL lets me put my mouse right where I like it. I use it at work and it isn't much louder than any of their keyboards (I try not to 'bottom out' the keys in most cases). Cherry brown switches feel pretty good to me, really easy to type on (low actuation weight) while still getting that little 'bump' for feedback. If i got another mech keyboard, i'd probably go browns again or maybe clears.
My complaints: my shift and backspace keys are a little creaky (sound and feel), but it's not something I notice unless I'm looking for it. Also, the return key is a smushy (and requires more force) if not pressed directly in the center. Not sure if any of these things are by design, but i don't like them.
Hope this helps.
Specific to your comment, cherry mx whites are MUCH harder to press than browns, to the point where if you're not used to it they may tire out your fingers.
I've found that reds and browns are just too soft, as I grew up learning to type on a Model M, but I still bang straight through blacks and bottom them out. After touching those 6, I still don't know what will finally please me the most (since buckler springs are the anathema of a cube workplace), but I hope that clears get me closer. I had a dream when I first saw that those Gateron Yellows were reported as being >150 cN, that if I could get a board like that I might not bottom out (but from the other recent drop where they disabled yellows as the manufacturer said that high actuation force must have been a fluke). For now I'm going to hope for these getting to the best price point so I can try out clears and hope that someone puts up a board with linear or tactile greys.
I guess I'm just adding that personal preference is such that without actually typing on a board for at least a few minutes if not a few hours, you really won't know how you'll like the switch, and even that can change significantly given the build quality and style from board to board.