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RayF
22214
Apr 8, 2018
Not total crap, but pretty close to it. Bought the blue one with the balanced connector upgrade to pair with a Schitt Jotunheim. First off, I hear no difference between the stock single-ended Sennheiser cable and the balanced Van Damme cable--zip, nada, nothing. If there is a measurable difference of some kind that my analog ears can't hear, I still claim that difference isn't worth $70. Next point: I have the same problem described by others, the terminations on the "R" and "L" connections were done fast and sloppy--there is a noticeable gap between the heat shrink and the plug, revealing exposed conductor. Additionally, the connectors are too difficult to connect to the headphones. Evidently there is a polarity requirement (makes sense) but there is no visual indicator to guide you as you attempt to plug them in. Assuming you figure out the direction, in my case there is an annoying twist to the right channel cable (in other words, the two sides weren't lying flat and parallel when the heat shrink was applied at the spilt). I suppose that can be "worked" out, but for the price, I would have expected better. Another point: the connectors do not fit securely; there is no perceivable "click", no way to know you've made a positive connection--and half the time I didn't--the connector just slipped out of the headphone. By contrast, the stock Sennheiser connectors have directional indicators, and plug right in smoothly and securely--first time, every time. Not sure why the Van Damme connectors can't do the same thing? Last point: the cable is long and heavy--as in very heavy. The weight is similar to those outdoor extension cables you might use for a leaf blower. That may be a "feature" for some, but it's uncomfortable lying across your body/neck/shoulders and exerts a lot of downward force on those feeble connectors I mentioned above. By the way, it's worth adding that I have no issues with the other end of the cable, the male XLR connects easily and securely to the corresponding connector on the Jot--no problem there. So, closing thoughts: as to the Snake Oil qualities associated with balanced cables, I'll leave that determination for another day (but I will say, to my eye (ear), the emperor is clearly butt-naked). In terms of overall value, I'd say save your money. Seventy bucks isn't the end of the world, but I'd rather have spent it on better source material, where the sound quality (and value) are much easier to hear.

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What we got (above), what the drop showed (below)
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(Edited)
RockyMountains
478
Apr 24, 2018
RayFHuh, functionally not a big deal, but that sure shouldn't have passed QC for cosmetics alone.
RayF
22214
Apr 24, 2018
RockyMountainsOr the "ugly" test either! Actually, there was a function issue--they were tough to plug in and weren't that secure once I got them in. Fortunately, MD took 'em back without question.
kenwstr
121
May 26, 2018
RayFIt isn't really a balanced cable. To do a balanced stereo cable, requires a separate XLR for each channel. For each channel, you connect the sig and inverse sig to each side of the cup's inducer coil. The shield is connected to ground at the XLR end only. If the cup had a metal body, you could connect shield to the cup body as well, not to the coil but I have never seen such a cup. Balanced cabling is specifically about eliminating induced noise on the cable over long runs. As the noise is the same phase and strength on both sig and inverse sig lines, it doesn't represent a potential difference so doesn't excite the coil so it's effect is cancelled/eliminated. The Sig and inverse sig lines do represent a potential difference so the only thing your hear is the pure unadulterated (noise free) signal. All things being equal, if an unbalanced cable doesn't pick up noticeable noise, then a balanced cable won't make any noticeable difference. You can generally run unbalanced about 3-5m with no disadvantage unless the environment has exceptional RF and/or induced magnetic noise. Having said that, balanced pro cable usually has heavier conductors than cheap domestic unbalanced cable. You can get hum etc if the cable conductors are too thin for their length which is often the case with domestic headphone extension leads which is why I make my own.
(Edited)
RayF
22214
May 26, 2018
kenwstrI’ve been thinking of going that way too. Thanks for the tips!
kenwstr
121
May 26, 2018
RayFIf your making your own unbalanced extension leads, I use high quality balanced microphone cable as it has 2 conductors. You can get cable where each conductor is inside it's own braid. This is probably theoretically better at reducing channel cross talk than the cable that has both conductors in the same braid. It is hard to find good in line TRS sockets. My local electronic supplier only stocks plastic body ones. I am in Australia where element14 is a good online source for connectors in various quality levels. I generally go for nickel plated connectors as they match most gear and are robust. Gold is not as wonderful as some think and can react badly with some dissimilar metals that you may be plugging to. In any case, Deoxit is a good contact maintenance product.
RayF
22214
May 26, 2018
kenwstrSounds like you've made a few sets in your time! Appreciate the info--I may hit you up for help when get started on my first set.
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