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ElectronicVices
2937
Jun 2, 2016
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ktyme
12
Jun 5, 2016
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ElectronicVicesThree weeks ago I would have totally agreed with everything you said. Since then I have purchased a new solid-state headphone amp (Gustard H10) which sounded awful out of the box. After burning in overnight it sounded exceptional. Some users have said it requires 100+ hours of burn in, but after the first night I could not tell the difference.
Again, I have no scientific basis to derive this opinion but before I got this amp I thought everyone was on crack regarding solid-state "burn-in". I stand corrected.
I am hoping someone can comment on these usb power cleaners. (i.e. the Shiit Wyrd and Audioquest Jitterbug etc.). I can understand that the power coming off of the USB port on your computer can be "dirty", but what if your DAC gets its power from a wall wart? Is there any added benefit to these devices?
Along the same lines what about higher-end USB cables that claim to be "low-jitter". Are these just snake oil?
Again, I have no scientific basis to derive this opinion but before I got this amp I thought everyone was on crack regarding solid-state "burn-in". I stand corrected.
I am hoping someone can comment on these usb power cleaners. (i.e. the Shiit Wyrd and Audioquest Jitterbug etc.). I can understand that the power coming off of the USB port on your computer can be "dirty", but what if your DAC gets its power from a wall wart? Is there any added benefit to these devices?
Along the same lines what about higher-end USB cables that claim to be "low-jitter". Are these just snake oil?
iamlilysdad
99
Jun 5, 2016
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ktymeI think the USB "decrappifiers" are supposed to fix the data stream and not so much the power delivery. Since USB is not designed to send data in a constant stream these devices will probably "buffer" a bit more instead of relying on real-time bursts of data from the PC.
ElectronicVices
2937
Jun 7, 2016
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ktymeOh I fully believe in warm up time for solid state... just not "extended burn in". I too have a Gustard from a drop or two back. As I can sometimes be found with headphones for hours it didn't take until the next day... just about hour 3. Day One Recap: Open box, plug in>T1 sounds bad>HE-500 was meh>TH-X00 not bad, portable like>HD650 Pretty Good>HE-500 now we're talking>T1 Ah there it is!, inky black background, good punch with a touch of rolloff in the highest frequency... just touch.
Socratease
191
Jun 7, 2016
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ElectronicVicesWhen I received my H10 I hooked it up and started burn-in. I didn't listen continuously, but would check it a few times a day to see how it was sounding, so I don't think there was a significant psychological factor. At first it sounded good -- not great, but decent. Half a day later it got worse, sort of scratchy and distorted. It did this for quite some time, getting so bad I thought it was defective. Then at about 70 hours of continuous running it cleared up and started sounding great. I don't think warm-up would adequately explain what I was hearing, but I also think it depends on the particular gear. Most DACs I couldn't tell the difference over the first few hours, but one other speaker amplifier sounded very cold and flat until it had been running for about 4 hours, then it opened up and that initial sound quality hasn't ever returned.
ElectronicVices
2937
Jun 9, 2016
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iamlilysdadAt least on the Schiit, I believe it's a dual pronged approach to the signal and the power supply. Unlike some of the other USB "solutions" the Schiit has a wallwart for power. This could have some minor benefits on the power delivery if the Wyrd's power is being utilized instead of a passthrough from the source. The specs state "Over 500mA" for current, giving weight to the possibility of reliance on the Wyrd's linear power supply.
bikeman
0
Dec 21, 2016
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ktymeMany DACs, even if they don't run off USB power, require USB power to run the USB input board. So, the theory is that such DACs may benefit from clean power from a USB cleaner. Of course, your mileage may vary.
I believe high end USB cables are snake oil. Just for kicks I did a true ABX blind test (my daughter was helping me switch the cables) between copper and silver coated copper USB cables. I could not do better than 50% at identifying which cable was in use, so I might as well have been guessing.
I believe high end USB cables are snake oil. Just for kicks I did a true ABX blind test (my daughter was helping me switch the cables) between copper and silver coated copper USB cables. I could not do better than 50% at identifying which cable was in use, so I might as well have been guessing.
Rapha
17
Jun 14, 2018
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ElectronicVicesI think its quite obvious that pads swapping will make a big change/improvement to the sound (after all your changing the way the signal is being transfer to your ears).
I have always lean over the thought that cables do make a difference (the better the materials the better the wave will be transferred to the headphones).
I had the chance to check it couple of times (and did the same tests with some friends, without them knowing what the difference will be),it worked every time..
Now im not saying that the difference is huge or you cant have a proper listening with put it, all im saying is that there is improvement in sound and in Frq.
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Tubes - "Burn In" - noticed drastic changes with some tubes, personally don't think this one is really up for much of a debate.
Speakers - "Break in" - my outlook pretty much mirrors Zeos there
Headphones - see above, except BA-only designs... never noticed it there. Never noticed much of a change in my HE-500's despite reports of drastic changes by some.
Solid State Amps/Pre-amps/Sources - never noticed any changes myself and don't really see many logic based arguments here either.
Methodology - nothing specific... my music collection is extremely varied and I listen a lot... coming back to tracks I know well during the first few weeks of a new purchase and see if any of my concerns/impressions have changed.
New Myth:
Speaker/Interconnect/Headphone Cable Upgrades-
My .02 here:
Speaker Cable - A cable should be of adequate gauge for the length of run and power requirements (long run, high wattage requiring thicker cables than short run low wattage). A cable should also have well constructed and securely fitted terminations. The copper should be of decent quality but nothing ridiculous (looking at you Cardas Grade-1) and I don't believe other metals give enough benefit to warrant the price that is charged for them. I've seen WAY too many blind tests where Home Depot zip cord scored the same/better than cables costing thousands.
Interconnect/Video/Data cable upgrades - again need a solid connector, again don't need anything ridiculous as far as material and balanced cables should be used for extremely long runs or use in an electrically noisy environment.
Headphone - Length, termination type and aesthetics are far more important factors than "this will be an improvement in sound." Changing pad position and/or the pads themselves has always made a much larger difference than a cable swap for me.
*All of these are my opinions, I'm not an EE and do not purport to be. I speak from personal experience with some validation from others experiences and experiments. In the end everyone needs to do what makes them enjoy their music more and put far less weight on others opinions.