There Are Pandas, and Then There Are Pandas.
And this isn't either of them! The Pandas we're talking about here, are watches, not bears. And what got me thinking about them (again) was a link posted this morning by @cm.rook who pointed a few of us to the very attractive (and not terribly priced) Yema "Rallygraph" Panda which, in it's most traditional arrangement, looks like the one on the left, but can also be had in the version on the right: The model on the left is a true Panda, while the model on the right is called a reverse Panda. The reason for that distinction is clear--Panda bears, only come in the first arrangement. Now at this point, everyone should be thinking about the most well-know Panda, The Rolex Panda, which is actually a Daytona, and among Rolex Daytonas, the most famous of which is the Paul Newman Daytona, which was famous first, because it was Paul's, and second because it sold at auction for $17.8 million (US Dollars). The story of that auction is well-known so I'll only...
Nov 8, 2019
So I am a Nikon user and not really qualified to speculate on the wisdom of keeping you 2 kit lenses or replacing them with a single 18-200mm in the Canon world. My first DSLR kit was with a single 18-135mm kit lens. For outdoor landscape and nature subjects like I do often, it was a good lens to use, but suffered from chromatic aberrations badly. If I had followed the 18-55mm and 55-200mm separate lenses path many other people did back then, I suspect I would have had better images overall in the early years as those lenses in Nikon version were known to be better on chromatic stuff than the all-in-one zoom 18-135mm. But out on hikes, it was very nice to just zoom out for a landscape image, then still be able to zoom in on a bird or butterfly on the fly as the opportunity presented itself. If I worked on street subjects or indoors more, I think I would see the 2 lens system as the wiser choice.
One thing I can say for sure is if you are looking to take indoor photos at family gatherings (and people will look to you as that person if you have a good camera), consider a fast normal prime lens as your next lens. The ability to avoid using a flash in that situation just gives more natural poses and your subjects will be more at-ease in general. Next, if your auto-mode is deploying the pop-up flash often, then it may be wise to consider a hot-shoe speedlight that can be tilted to bounce off the ceiling. You may think the built-in speedlight is good enough, until you see how bounced flash looks in the same setting. If your main work is outdoors, then your pop-up flash may be all you need for years to just add fill to a back-light subject.
What do I actually use 10 years after my first DSLR purchase? I bought a Tamron 18-270mm all-in-one zoom which basically retired the 18-135mm Nikon lens. Better range, vibration compensation, and better image quality. I bought a 35mm f1.8 prime lens as the "fast normal". It makes a nice compact package for get-togethers with family and friends. I just this year purchased a Sigma 18-35mm f1.8 zoom, and it may wind up replacing that 35mm prime, but it is quite a bit more bulky. The 35mm prime will continue to earn it's keep I think. I use an older 70-300mm tele-zoom for nature and sports subjects. I have many shots of eagles with that lens. I also have a Tamron 90mm prime lens. Actually I am on my 2nd 90mm as I used an 1990's vintage version for 9 years and upgraded to the most current version this year. I use it as a macro lens, and I like to take portraits of my watch collection with it. Also good for people portraits, but I don't do that very often. I have 2 speedlights, mainly because I realized after buying the SB-400 that I really could use the extra power and flexibility of the SB-600. I don't use a flash in my style of photography enough to justify buying the top-level Nikon speedlight (currently SB-900).
And yes, there really should be a good-quality tripod in your future too. It helps everything.