Support for Alternative Layouts
This is a summary of how alternative layouts have been supported by kits such as Colevrak and Homing. It is not a discussion of alt layout performance and development, but if that interests you I highly recommend starting with Pascal Getreuer’s A guide to alt keyboard layouts (why, how, which one?). It’s a concise and comprehensive overview with links to some great sites that go deeper. He also has a separate Links about keyboards page. The Keyboard layouts doc he recommends explains layout goals and metrics in detail, summarizing the alt layouts discussed here as well as more than one hundred others. Sculpted-profile The majority of custom keycap sets are sculpted-profile (Cherry, SA, MT3, KAT, etc. - more on profiles generally here) so let’s start there. Because each row has a unique keycap shape, alt layouts require a unique keycap for each legend that moves off its QWERTY row. At first there were two The Dvorak layout was patented in 1936 by August Dvorak & William L....
Apr 23, 2024
Other than that the sound is kinda meh, the aluminum case is not what I expected and together with not so soft anti slip feet contribute to the noise amplification and transmits it into the desk. In this regard the KBD75 case feels much nicer and of higher quality and the silicone feet while cheaper are much more effective at noise absorption. Also the case is somewhat lighter and thinner than what I expected and in comparison with the KBD75. If you consider taxes (19% VAT, $5 fee for the post office handling customs) , I actually paid less for the KBD75 with aluminium case, original Cherry stabilizers and Zealios 67g.
The firmware/configurator part is decent, considering it's a WIP but I would expect better support for the RGB part since it's one of the selling points of this KB. At this point it is behind QMK.
The caps are what you would expect from TaiHao, nothing to write home about but also better than what you get with most KBs out there. USB cable is average quality, nothing special.
The Halo Clear switches feel nice, like a crossover between MX Black, somewhat heavier MX Clears and a little touch of Topre Rubbreh Domeh.
All in all a mixed experience, will attempt to fix the stabs with lube tomorrow.
Had that on two boards: a KBP V80 with Costar stabilizers that was completely unlubed and a Pok3r RGB I got from MD a few months ago. In both cases lube helped, on the KBP V80 a little bit on every stabilizer fixed the issue but on the Pok3r I had to add a lot on the spacebar stabilizers as they were driving me insane with the squeaking. Of course it won't help with the rattling but at least it will eliminate the squeaking and reduce the noise a little.
PS Add one more issue to this KB: coil whine!
At least with some 10-15 Euros thrown into Cherry stabilizers I will be able to salvage this KB.
https://deskthority.net/for-sale-f55/cherry-stabilizer-sets-t16806.html
ps i'm still holding out and waiting on MD to solve this if they don't it's the last expensive perhaps even my last buy from them al together ..
Cheers!
1) does the high pitch noise stay there even when in single color so no wave or RGB ? ; yes. 2) does it go away when you dimm the light ? as far as i can tell no , i would have to lower the light to it's absolute min and all the way down i can hear the sound. 3) does connecting your keyboard to a different port help? Currently it's connected true my 30-inch dell monitor build in hub. i tried connecting directly to my macbook pro and the sound still persists. 4) does the sound go away when you connect it to a different machine. i connected it to a Lenovo laptop directly no hub running windows not that that matters but the sound was still there.
btw looking at picks online i have determined that the sound is coming from one of the chips (IC's) on the right side below the home/end keys. as the sound sounds way way louder there..
But that's a minor problem compared to the fact that yesterday, all of a sudden, the KB started repeating the last keypress. I removed the USB plug, put it back in, the KB was no longer working. Removed plug again, waited a little bit, plugged it back in and it started working. Then after a little while (10-20 minutes) it disconnected and re-connected by itself, with the USB firmly plugged in. I suspected that it's a problem with the backlight and turned it down towards the minimum, also reducing coil whine. It worked for an hour or so without further issues.
Today I managed to actually reproduce a few issues (no longer accepting input, flashing backlight) by simply pushing the backlight to the highest level. It seems that a white static backlight and a two tone fingerprint animation are somehow too much for this board. I suspect it might run out of power despite being connected to an USB 2.0 port. Will try a 3.1 one next.
LE Nope, same thing with USB 3.1. I would assume that white is an edge case since all the three junctions of the LEDs are pushing maximum currents.
Don't misunderstand i so much wanted to love this keyboard it's a present from my wife for my birthday . For years she couldn't buy me a present something special to me because i want nothing and i am very picky about what i do get and get it when i need / want it.. i have bin following Haata and this keyboard for over 2yrs now and was so happy to get it and payed the high admission fee living in EU .. in total $267,37 just to get it .. but i never in my wildest dreams expected to have to open it.. get new stabs lube those and all the time it takes. remember i never opened up a keyboard that's the whole point of this getting a perfect keyboard for a relative good price... So now i also have to except the high pitch noise it makes no thanks but that's as far as i'm willing to go.. i love the switch but that doesn't mean i'm willing to take all this crap . i do have other keyboard that cost me more but they are near perfect as you can get.. And btw so is the switch on this keyboard except when i come near does bloody stabs