Support for Alternative Layouts
This is a summary of how alternative layouts have been supported by kits such as Colevrak and Homing. It is not a discussion of alt layout performance and development, but if that interests you I highly recommend starting with Pascal Getreuer’s A guide to alt keyboard layouts (why, how, which one?). It’s a concise and comprehensive overview with links to some great sites that go deeper. He also has a separate Links about keyboards page. The Keyboard layouts doc he recommends explains layout goals and metrics in detail, summarizing the alt layouts discussed here as well as more than one hundred others. Sculpted-profile The majority of custom keycap sets are sculpted-profile (Cherry, SA, MT3, KAT, etc. - more on profiles generally here) so let’s start there. Because each row has a unique keycap shape, alt layouts require a unique keycap for each legend that moves off its QWERTY row. At first there were two The Dvorak layout was patented in 1936 by August Dvorak & William L....
Apr 23, 2024
First of all, you need to remove the keycaps themselves. I'd also recommend removing the caps in the immediate area around the stabilized keys, just to give you some extra room to work with. Since we're on the subject of removing the stabilized keys, be extra careful with them. Occasionally the stabilizers on a new board can fit into the keycaps somewhat tightly, and applying too much force can break them. Using the included wire puller, simply rock the cap back and forth while gently pulling on it and it will pop loose without issue.
I'm using a tube of silicone grease that I picked up a couple years ago from WASD Keyboards, and wearing gloves because this stuff can be messy.
Now that your caps are off, before the stabilizers can be removed and properly lubed, you'll need to pull the switches. Use the switch removal tool bundled with the board to remove said switches by grabbing them at the top and bottom of the switch with the pullers metal prongs, give it a bit of a squeeze, and gently lift up. You don't want to dig in too much with the puller or you'll risk scratching your plate.
The second area is a little trickier to do unless you want to take apart your stabilizer, but I didn't, because I'm lazy :p Anyway, you need to get the lube between the MX mount (center) and the housing itself (sides), here-
And that's all there is to it! From there simply put your stabilizers back in, clip them down, reseat your switches (you won't need the tool this time), and put your keycaps back on. I do this with all my stabilizers, and while it doesn't eliminate all of the noise, it does cut down on it quite a bit. Enjoy, and I hope this helped! : )