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Cloaca
1906
Mar 2, 2018
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That Ochs und Junior Perpetual Calendar watch is kind of brilliant. It looks opaque, but is really easy to learn to read, and you don't have to have 20-20 vision to do it.
https://www.ochsundjunior.swiss/watches/perpetual-calendar/videos/#Date-displays
The time is the time, and the four dots in a square are the year in the sense of relative position from leap year, with a red dot in the outermost position for leap years. But the whole year indicator rotates, and where it is at indicates the month. There are twelve months, so it just points at one to twelve o'clock and repurposes those indices for months.
Finally, the red dot on the outside perimeter is the day of the month. At first I thought, Oh, another German "approximate time" watch like the einzeiger, since who's going to memorize which dot is what date or who is going to count. But it turns out to be really simple: There are only six hour indices, 12, 2, 4, 6, 8, and 10. Not so uncommon. But 6 into 30 is 5. So all you have to do is look at where the red dot is relative to the hour indices. In the photo it's on the second index, 4 o'clock, so it's 2 times 5 equals the 10th of the month. You just have to be able to multiply by five and add or subtract one or two sometimes.
Apparently this approach cuts the mechanical complexity (and thus the reliability and cost) by an order of magnitude.
There is a customizer on the website where you can specify everything (different colors for hour hand and minute hand even), and from that I learned that there is also a seconds indicator and a power reserve. I'll leave that for homework.
I still haven't figured out the "control dot" at 1:30.
Mar 2, 2018
Cloaca
1906
Mar 2, 2018
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CloacaI simulated up a design, and it quoted me $24,000. It appears I accidentally chose 18 carat gold hour and minute hands.
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Case: Grade 5 titanium Dial: Light green Markers: Green smoke Hour hand: 18-karat gold Minute hand: 18-karat gold Seconds disk: Brass Seconds dot: Black Power reserve disk: German silver Power reserve dot: Black Month disk: Green smoke Leap year gear: Light green Leap year dot: Black Date disk: Green smoke Date dot: Red Control dot: German silver Strap: Coconut / leather CHF 20'370 — export price excluding VAT.
Edit: The gold doesn't make that much difference. This is simply an expensive watch, hand assembled in small quantities by one woman using parts sourced in small, customized materials and coatings. It's a five-person company, the designer, the president who is the salesman you deal with, a web designer, a contact person for suppliers, and the watchmaker.
Mar 2, 2018
Vincent.H
1698
Mar 6, 2018
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CloacaIf I recall correctly, the control dot tells you that the gears are unmeshed and that it is OK to set the perpetual calendar.
Mar 6, 2018
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