Mar 26, 20183784 views

[Ongoing] Pro Photo Gear Discussion

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On Massdrop, whether you’re a beginner just starting out or a seasoned expert, you should always be able to find answers to your questions within the community.
PRO PHOTOGRAPHY Capturing the right moments requires the right skill, but those moments are made all the better when you have the right gear. And that’s just the beginning. Editing your photography is a journey all on its own, and learning about the hardware, software, and equipment you can incorporate into your process can improve your work from start to finish.
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Why does my phone do 4k 60fps, but Eos R only has 4k 30?
Other than it obviously cropping the picture, are there any disadvantages of a cropped sensor over a full frame if they have the same specs
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What's your point about 85mm on crop - is it good or bad for portrait?
dkokalanov
An 85mm lens will simply behave differently on a crop sensor. The crop factor varies, but generally it's going to end up around 115mm-125 equivalent. So it's going to be more tele and less wide. Also FF sensor cameras give you a shallower depth of field. This is part of the magic of 85mm. When you are just far enough away to get the head and shoulders in frame, in most cases the 85's DOF only covers from the tip of the nose to the eyes. The sides of the head will start to subtly blur out, which gives a nice flattering look. (especially on us 40+ folks) On a crop sensor you'll almost always have the whole head in focus, other settings being generally equivalent. I experienced this first hand as I went from crop sensor bodies to a full frame. My lens collection was limited to a 35, 40 and 85mm. On my APSC camera the 85 was really good, but I often went to the 35 or 40mm lenses for their compact size. Also the 85 was just a touch too tele. Making it awkwardly long when doing street photography. I had to keep stepping back! On the full frame 6D the 35 was suddenly very wide to my eyes. The 40 was almost indistinguishable from the 35, and the 85 was much more fun and practical to use! That all said, the classic 85 portrait thing is a wide open (or close to it) shot. Which of course isn't always practical. And not the only stylistic choice for portraits. It will still do that cool thing which emphasizes the roundness of peoples heads even when stopped down though.
Favourite travel tripod and/or long exposure tripod?
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Manfrotto is DA BOM.
chikwa
I did an Asia trip with the MeFoto GlobeTrotter Classic Carbon Fiber. Collapses very small (41cm, 1.7kg) , was able to strap it under the Peak Sling 10L. Comes with an Arca ballhead. Was able to ditch the plate and shave off 0.5cm and a few grams since I had a Peak Capture plate attached to the camera. Comes with spiked rubber feet, standard 3/8 16" if you need to attach metal spikes.
Did a 1 hr timelapse of the blood moon over the South China Sea, strapping my bag off the center column hook to stabilize it. Very happy with it.
What lens is best for Canon m5 when it comes to landscape like photography? Mostly mountains or hills, northern countries.
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Thanks you have been a great help! I'm reading about the lenses now I really appreciate the recommendations
eolav
You can often find great wide lenses for canon from third parties like tokina or samyang. They are sharp, have large maximum apertures, and are significantly cheaper.
Has MD ever had a mirrorless lens go on sale? Let's upvote those deals, yo!!
Hey folks. We have a winner of the Peak Design Everyday Bag & Field Pouch. Congrats to @Dr.McCoy! The giveaway has concluded, but if you have any questions (or answers), keep them coming. Thanks y'all.
Duncan
Thanks again, Duncan & Massdrop! Really looking forward to it!
Anyone have any recommendations for a Light Room alternative? I'm looking for something to store and organize my images with tags and light edits on the side.
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DigiKam is great for tagging, and can tag raw images. I used this to add metadata in bulk. It can do bulk renaming based on tags, moving to other folders, etc.. It's open source and it's free.
If you need something for demosaicing and developing in bulk, RawTherapee has a great and fast workflow once you understand and get used to it. DarkTable might be a little easier to learn. Both are perfectly capable of replacing Lightroom.
There's also Affinity Photo if you want to stick it to Adobe by supporting a competitor. It's got an interesting RAW workflow and it works with PortraitProfessional plugins so I could ditch Photoshop. I do the developing in RawTherapee due to its sheer power and bring it in to Affinity Photo for editing.
b9d9ffdad3ac59e7f6f
I have not heard of DigiKim but I've just downloaded it so I'll try it and see what I can do. I love Affinity but it's more a PS competitor than LR. If they make one for LR, I would support them and pay it in a heart beat. RawTherapee I do have but if it supports tagging and related I would be set. Thanks for the recommendations and I'll try it now! Cheers!
Does anyone have recommendations for Adobe Lightroom educatio? I am ok with it but want to get better. Or is there a better app out there for processin?
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Mantequillas
For processing, Capture One is terrific. Its tools for working with curves, levels, color, etc. have spoiled me. I can’t even imagine using Lightroom for working with an image. In comparison, Lightroom seems downright primitive.
It can be expensive, but if you use Sony, they offer a deal that is quite affordable. I haven’t checked in awhile about whether they still have that, though.
My problem with either LR or CO is that organizing collections of digital images is difficult for me. I still mainly shoot film. Huge four drawer filing cabinets full of negatives work a lot better for this old brain.
kingfisher
Thanks I will give that a try!
Does anyone use the Peak Design Everyday Backpack 20L? I've been eyeing it to use as a travel backpack and to hold my Sony A7III with my 35mm and GoPro camera and accessories. I'm 5'5 and weigh about 150 so I'm just wondering if it's going to be too bulky or not? I normally use North face backpacks and I do love it but its just too bulky to use at times.
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kentobeanz
I’m 5’6” and weigh 140. It’s my daily bag and my go-to camera bag. I do not find it bulky at all. I personally find it to be more of a slim design than any other backpack I’ve had. The fabric is a big more rigid because of the water protection so it doesn’t get saggy or bulge out even when full.
I carry heavier gear than you have listed, and still find it to be a slimmer profile even when full to the brim. I’m an NGO photographer and this bag is my go-to for travel, too.
kentobeanz
I have the bag for half a year now. I am of similar build to you and I found it very comfortable. I managed to carry my m43 camera body+ 3 lenses and my Mavic Pro as well as a travel tripod. Very versatile.
I'm primarily a film photographer - but I live with 4 other people and only 1 bathroom. As a result, I can rarely tie it up for a long period of time - leaving me with like 60 rolls of undeveloped 35mm just hanging around.
How do you deal with developing (and drying) your film in an apartment with several roommates? Also, do you have a darkroom printing setup? What's it like?
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Dr.McCoy
I am deeply committed to the darkroom, and have spent a lot of my life in them for more than fifty years. I got tired of building darkrooms, and my wife frequently expresses a desire to move. My solution to this problem has been to repurpose a sixteen foot contractor’s trailer as a darkroom. It is somewhat limited, and comes with some interesting challenges, such as the need for a sewer connection. Insulation is difficult. It is very hard to make prints larger than 11x14.. But otherwise it’s great. I have two enlargers in there, can enlarge all formats up to 4x5, and I have a Wing- Lynch temperature control that keeps my water to within 1/4 degree F.
Dr.McCoy
You may be able to reduce printing time by making proof sheets using a digital scanner. See what the keepers look like on a photo editor. If everything looks good, go for the darkroom for the final printing.
Hey, I'm fairly new to photography and I was wondering about different techniques and tips for getting into street photography since I find it really interesting but don't know where to start. Any ideas or tips?
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PrinceDork
Shoot Shoot Shoot Shoot Shoot.
Try out a few different lenses until you find the one,(or ones), that suits YOUR view. I personally like my 35 for the old classic 35 look. But I will sometimes go with a 45 or a 50... just depends on the day, and whether I am going film or digi. I really like my 45mm "pancake". If I am shooting film, it's most often Efke.
I really like using my iPhone X to shoot up a street/space and see what it tells me about my project before committing to film... there's something you can't take back, you have to do it right because film isn't cheap and it must be pre-meditated.
I agree with anybody here who tells you to check legality and to be courteous about what you are doing. Try to be aware of culture issues where some cultures aren't really keen on you just taking pictures.I know that feels counter to the idea of candid photography that lends a raw quality to your work, but getting into trouble or conflict is too, and respect and offering dignity is just being the decent human.
Here's some books you should get a look at; Any of the collections of the work of Vivian Maier. Try to see the large page format books,(like coffee table books), so that you can really take the images in. She was a phenomenal street photography artist. Kind of amazing stuff. She's a really good eye that you should experience. Caveat here; people didn't always know she was photographing them,and social rules have changed more than a little since she did her art.
PrinceDork
one cool technique I picked up from a rock and roll photographer pal is to use a fast wide angle lens, crank your aperture down as small as you can bear (to broaden the DOF, or in focus sweet spot) and dial up the ISO to compensate. When you get this right you can get photos where just about everything in frame is in focus. The trick is making sure the shutter is fast enough to obviate the handheld shake. And also to clear the frame of anything too close to be in focus. Many wide angle lenses have a short minimum focus distance as well. So if you can keep at least a few feet away from in frame stuff you should be good. The other thing I always find helpful, but often forget, is to mind where the light source is. It makes a huge difference if you can catch that highlight coming off of the subject. It's one thing nailing the focus. It is quite another to nail the focus and get a killer highlight on the edge of the subjects face!
Hello People of Massdrop! I’ve been looking for a tripod and ball head. My problem is I’m not sure where to start. There are so many good brands and the different options of ball head combinations is a bit overwhelming. I would welcome any advice. I will be shooting mainly portraits but have recently been shooting video for a small theatre company. A friend recommended getting a video ball head, a floating head...? I know tripods and ball heads can be expensive but I don’t mind paying for quality gear that will last.
Thoughts anyone?
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You are an awesome teacher.
Shao
Anyone in the group have a take on Arca vs Manfrotto plates?
I see a few people liking Manfrotto tripods, which obviously come with their plates. On the other hand, I've seen that many prefer the Arca plates, which seem to be more compatible with non-tripod accessories like those from Peak Design (I know they have Manfrotto-compatible plates, but they're extra).
New to photography and I'm eying a used a7ii body only for 900$. At first I thought it was a good deal but looking at all the Lenses they cost almost the same amount as the camera used, and some New. Should I just go for the a6000 and a extra lens for the same price as the used a7ii?
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Got it, thanks!
Nice pictures btw
AMDlover
Thanks! Whatever you get, give it time to settle. Shoot every day no matter and don't worry about 'getting the shot.' It's supposed to be fun! If you never leave home without the camera and shoot daily you'll learn more than you ever believed possible in a reasonable amount of time.
I am getting into film cameras and I wanted to get some suggestions on good cameras to start out with. I was looking at the Minolta x-700 and the AE-1 Program. Which one of these would be cheaper to use in the long run (lense wise, aftermarket stuff, etc)? Any suggestions on other ones?
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Logic77
Minolta. I have worked Minolta since forever ago, and both of my Minolta film cameras work very well. The wind mechanisms still function correctly with no jamming, and the lenses available are very good. With proper adaptors, you can even use superior lenses on the Minolta box. You can find Minoltas at very excellent prices on eBay... look for Adorama offerings, as they generally refurb up any used cameras they sell. I also like B&H Photo. Getting a "vintage" film camera that's already been cleaned up and made mechanically sound is more valuable than I can say. Save you a lot of grief and money in the end. Before you get started... make sure you know where you will get film , where you'll get it developed etc. Taking a course at a college or community college might be very valuable to you. Look at the website "I Still Shoot Film". Good forum, good recommends.
Logic77
Older film cameras frequently have problems with lights seals, mirror dampers, shutter speeds, and metering (that's about the whole camera). Some camera stores that sell used will offer a return policy if something isn't working. I guess avoiding frustration is the first step. Lenses can have mold, scratches and gummed up or oily blades. God it's almost like buying a used car. I guess the cheapest to use would be one that works. :)
I want to ask whether you guys prefer using a tripod or a monopod? Can you give me the particular brands and models that you are using? Thanks.
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jhaiz45
I own both. I have a cheap (Amazon Basics) tripod. It actually works pretty well, at least indoors or on relatively level ground without excessive wind. I've seen some much more expensive tripods which I'm sure would be either much lighter, or much sturdier (or both)... but this one is enough for me (as a hobbyist.)
More often than the tripod, I use a Mountainsmith FXpedition monopod. The difference is that while it doesn't let you go completely hands-free, it's quicker to setup and take down, and you can take it places where tripods might not be welcome. In crowds, or events, or some public parks you might be asked to put away your tripod, but nobody complains about a walking stick... that you happen to use to steady your camera. While it's not quite as steady as a tripod, when I'm shooting a vintage telephoto with no stabilization it makes a world of difference.
jhaiz45
I have a Vanguard Alta Pro with a video style head. Very solid professional tripod. I've done some video and portrait stuff with it and it was a trooper. For my own personal use I have a super cheap video style head on one of the cheaper Manfrotto monopods. The whole thing collapses down very small and weighs about a pound. I generally only need it for doing longer exposures, or when shooting a landscape shot that has to be dead on. Most of the time though I do not see a use for either. Proper adjustment of ISO, shutter and iris let me get most things done handheld. It helps to have fast glass!
I‘m pretty new to photography, and am looking for a beginner camera and got a bit confused with all the options. I’ve been using an old Olympus E-520 and I definitely need an upgrade. Maybe a cheaper Canon or Nikon, ~$500 or less. Any ideas?
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InvisibleGhost
The problem is match the camera to your needs. A decent beginner camera at a good price is the Nikon D3400 + 18-55 zoom. You can find a refub kit for $399. Or the next step up a Nikon D5600 + 18-55 or 18-140.
Even if you outgrow the D3400, and upgrade to a D7500 or FX body, keep the D3400 for when you don't want to haul the heavier camera out. For casual stuff, a lighter camera will get used more, giving you pix that you otherwise would not shoot. I speak from experience, and missing a LOT of family pix, cuz I did not want to haul out the big 35mm camera.
InvisibleGhost
My sister recently had the same question. I tried to present her equal reasons to go with a Sony like the 6500 or a Canon like the T7. In the end we went with an SL2, as it was enough cheaper to enable her to get a prime in addition to the kit lens while still being quite small and decent quality. The cheaper Canon lenses are pretty great deals. The cheap plasticy 50mm 1.8 is way better than it should be for a hair over $100. The 40mm 2.8 and 24mm 2.8 are also really good for cheap pancake lenses. (I wish the 24mm wasn't EF-s)
What are some tips for someone who is partially colorblind (red/green) and doesn't have a photo editing monitor. 144hz tn panel asus monitor. I want to be able to confidently edit my photos but I feel like I'm at a big disadvantage unless I'm just doing black and white. How can I set up my monitor to assist me and achieve a truer sense of color?
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Under your camera settings, you should have the ability to display RGB histograms as well. Also, almost all editing software that I know of also allows you to view RGB histograms and backlays on tone curves.
Unpractical
I was gonna type something out but this B&H article is better and more extensive: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/explora/computers/tips-and-solutions/color-management-color-blind
Hi everyone,
I'm looking for a new lens for my Nikon D7200, but i'm not trying to break crazy bank on a new lens. I'm currently using my 18-55mm lens from 2007. (No joke!), but auto focus is LOUDD and CLANKY. I'm mostly interested in doing portraits and architecture.
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That's true, longer exposure doesn't hurt in most cases. I thought the 11-20 wasn't as sharp as the 14-20? I know it was an improvement over the 11-16, which is kind of surprising to me since it's a larger range.
monsieurdivinity
Sounds like the 18-55 has been damaged if the AF is noisy like that.
A GOOD lens is the 16-85 f/2.8-4, but at $1,000 it is likely over your budget.
My GP lens is a 18-140 f/3.5-5.6. The optics is a compromise, not as good as the 16-85, but also not as expensive. But the small aperture won't give you the shallow DoF that a prime would. If you do portrature indoors against a plain background, you do not need to worry about DoF. If you are outdoors or in an environment, then you may.
re: portraits 1) You need to think and define what YOU mean by portraits, because portraits can range from a 25 person 3-generation family picture to a tight head shot. The different kinds of portraits require different focal lengths, just for the different angle of view. 2) Next is how much space do you have? The closer you are to the subject(s), the shorter the focal length you need. The farther you are from the subject, the longer the lens you need.
So depending on the subject and distance, you could be using anything from a 20mm wide lens to a 200mm tele.
re: architecture Similarly architecture can range from a WIDE lens for tight interior shots, to a tele for longer outdoor shots or shots of specific things on the building. This would point to at least 2 lenses, maybe 3: something like the 10-24 for tight interior and a longer lens (16-85, 18-140, 70-200, etc.) And you need a good tripod.
What do you guys think about Moment’s new ANAMORPHIC lens for smartphones ? Is it good to invest money on lens for smartphones rather than point n shoot camera or entry level DSLR ?
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Abhi247
I think phones with a good camera app that lets you change the settings can be really beneficial. Especially since a lot of phones can get down to 2 or 1.8f to give you that professional photography look with the depth of field. I think it's a good idea to invest money into a smart phone lens if it's a good product but having a dedicated dslr or mirrorless will always be my preferred go to for shooting.
Abhi247
It depends on your budget for an entry level DSLR/Point and shoot. If your budget is $200-$300, then your phone + moment is probably your best bet. If your budget is closer to $500 or even more, take a look at Sony A6000 and Sony Alpha series.
A YouTube reviewer says the Panasonic G85‘s sensor can’t take full advantage of the Sigma 16 f1.4, compared to Sony APSC cameras. Any insights into this?
HardGrader
That is technically true, as micro four thirds sensors are a tad smaller than aps-c sensors. This being said, the difference in size between full frame on aps-c and aps-c to micro four-thirds sensors is very different. You will see less quality loss using aps-c lenses on micro-four thirds bodies than you would using full-frame on aps-c bodies. This picture of general surface area differences may assist in this.
search
So, while they are correct that there is some loss of image, it is far less than if you were going from FF to aps-c. Essentially, give it a shot. It's very likely that you'll barely notice it.
HardGrader
What the YouTuber means is that the image circle produced by the lens will be larger than the G85's sensor. In terms of image quality, it really doesn't mean anything.
That said, it is important to note that the field of view provided by the lens mounted on a Sony APS-C camera compared to that provided when on a M4/3 camera (like the G85) will be different. The image from the lens on the G85 will seem more "zoomed in" compared to the image from a Sony APS-C camera. That's due to something known as a crop factor.
You can read more about crop factor here: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/explora/photography/tips-and-solutions/understanding-crop-factor
To me, and for many years, the Capture Clip on the belt, and the Clutch on the camera, are a perfect match to go hands-free and shot instantly when needed!
Has anyone had the chance to use a digital large-format-like system? I'm mostly referring to the ALPA models - but I assume there are others. I'm really interested in getting one at some point but I can't really get a bearing on how much it costs vs regular 4x5 or 6x9 technical cameras. Seems somewhere in the vicinity of $10,000 and a bajillion dollars.
Thoughts? Experiences?
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Dr.McCoy
Look at Gregory Crewdsons work. to purchase one of these it’s very expensive but it’s not impossible. There are websites you can always rent from but it will still be a hefty penny. I recommend sticking to medium format, due to the fact that it’s half the price and you can then afford other options like lenses and flash.
Medatative
Yeah, I'm trying to figure out how expensive though. I wanna move to large format but I'm trying to figure out if shooting film or digital is a better idea. I'd like something with full movements and decent durability so I'm already looking at spending a decent chunk of change as it is.
Optics and specs aside, which camera have you had the most fun shooting with?
Mine is the Fujifilm X30 - it's certainly not a stand out camera when it comes to image quality, sharpness, or resolution, but I have a special place in my heart for this camera. It was amazing to travel with and Fuji's system reminded me how much I love photography. (Owning that camera has actually informed my recent decision to purchase the Fuji X-T2!)
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btimup
Mine is the Nikon D500. As an enthusiast this camera does all I ask of it. Great for sports, great for dripping icicles and maple tree sap drips, portraits and snaps of grandchildren etc. Speed enough to handle anything and IQ that is also terrific in most every lighting situation.
btimup
Mine is hands down the a7sii. With those low light features, it was so much fun to be able to go out and shoot at night with. It is absolutely crazy what that sensor can pick up. Anyone else looking forward to the a7siii?
I'd like to get into landscape and architectural photography. I currently have a Canon 550D and a Sigma 35mm F1.4 DG HSM | A, which has been pretty good for general purpose photography. I'm looking for a recommendation of a midrange lens that I could take when walking around town or hiking, which would provide better flexibility (and much nicer landscape shots).
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Yes. I forgot we were ralking about crop bodies also. I started with used canon 10D with Sigma 17-35mm F2.8-4 EX DG Aspherical 8 years ago. I sold both but wish I had kept that sigma lens. I didn’t event know what I had. It was a marvel of a glass that had good zoom range for full frame At reasonable cost. Wish I could have used it with full frame. Didn’t know about full frame vs crop back then and I moved to 8-16 sigma for wide angle. I aways wanted to use TokIna 11-16 as it was regarded as best for buck wide angle and bright with 2.8F. Sharp from edge to edge. 2.8F at that price range is a bargain. Would be good choice for OP as it can get him introduced to Astro photography if he wanted to.
andypak01
Good point, astro is fun to experiment with for sure. Now he's got to add a nice tripod, a remote, and a two-week vacation to Yellowstone to his list. I swear, we're going to bankrupt the poor guy before we're through!
search
I like my Tokina AT-X 16-28 f2.8. No Yellowstone shots to share, but I was in Niagara Falls for a couple of days last summer.
Hello camera enthusiasts. I have gone on a few websites but would also love feedback from everyday shooters. I am planning to get the a7r ii (hoping it shows up on here in the next few weeks). I wanted to know what people would recommend for my first two lenses. I am getting the camera for an upcoming trip to Australia and New Zealand where I plan to shoot a lot of landscape, some city shots and the occasional portrait (I realize I am probably talking about 3 lenses here but I want to keep my backpack as light as possible). Any thoughts and recommendations are greatly appreciated! Thank you. Also if anyone has seen the a7r ii somewhere (body) for under $2400, that isn't grey market, would really appreciate that as well.
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dktravels85
In case you can't get a good deal in time - have you considered renting the camera from somewhere actually within those countries? Saves on packing space because you only need to bring memory cards.
dktravels85
As someone who's shot NZ NI and SI in FF (but Nikon, not Sony) I realize that, although I had all my lenses along, I mostly used a 20mm fast prime and a variable 70-300 - at 250 or longer, So either pretty wide or isolating a detail / pulling distant mountains closer to the foreground. Even with a FF, if you want to shoot in other than good light (e.g. blue hour) you will need a camera support. If you are backpacking, a decent table tripod will work - and is small and light. Leofoto makes a good one in CF. Under $90 on ebay, or 125-ish with head on amazon. 500g or so, packs down to maybe 200mm long. NZ has a very good backpackers hostel network. You can join the network when you get to NZ. Be sure your backpack has a good raincover. It may not rain, but if it does, it'll be impressive. Also, do not leave your camera gear in a wet - or even damp - backpack overnight.
This is a custom-ROM program for more versatile and capable Canon camera options, There's a lot of awesome features. If you haven't heard of it, I suggest you check it out!
https://www.magiclantern.fm/
Are there any competitors to Think Tank for carry-on/check in luggages that made to be on a plane? I'm looking for something that can hold a 400/2.8 and of course the rest of my small lens.
If you've never used a 400/2.8 or it's longer siblings or even know/see how big it is, I do recommend you look it up before posting anything.
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I love it so, so much. It's pretty much the only bag I carry anymore. I stopped being able to use messenger-style bags due to back pain issues, and it took me quite a long time to take the plunge and spend that much on a bag (cause wow, they're expensive), but it's been totally worth it. I can fit a 6D, 24-105 f4, 70-200 f2.8, 100mm f2.8 macro, and 85 f1.8 in there, and the ability to quickly customize where the dividers are means it doesn't matter which lens is attached, everything will fit, with a little extra room for a light jacket or something in the top if needed. It gets pretty heavy with all of that in there, but it's still surprisingly comfy. I'm 6' even, and about 190, and while I wouldn't say it's a bit small on me, it's fairly slim, so I think you'd be fine for fit.
My only real complaint about the thing is that the backpack shoulder straps slip slowly over the course of the day if you have much weight in the bag. Not a huge deal, it's very easy to re-adjust them, but worth noting, in case that's something that'd drive you up the wall.
Also, travel wise, it easily fits under seats on airplanes, and has one of those luggage handle passthrough things, which is super handy if you spend lots of time in airports.
Kasmir
Ok thanks for the reply! Yes they are definitely pricey but I love the look and design of it. I might end up pulling the trigger soon!
Would buying a used D500 with low shutter count make sense, given that I shoot sport, landscapes and ocassionally portraits? Or would saving up/buying cheaper/switching manufacturers be a better option? (I currently own 3 Nikon lenses so going Nikon would be the best idea)
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You need to tell us WHAT lenses you have. In some cases using FX lens on DX does not work as well as people may think. Example a 70-200 on a DX body does not work as well as on a FX body when shooting on the sidelines of a football or soccer field. This is because a 70-200 on a DX body will have the field of view of a 105-300 on a FX body. The short end is too long when the players get closer to you.
What kind of sports do you shoot, and from what distance? Shooting football from the sidelines is different than from the bleachers.
How much do you shoot sports vs whatever else you shoot? IOW how important is the D500 DX vs say a D850 or 750 FX ?
I agree. the only camera that beats a nikon is a hasselblad, and they are in the $10’s of thousands. However, with the new nikon Z mirrorless, I am confident nikon has now captured that category as well!
Travelers, what is your go-to setup for a 2 week vacation or journey IF you are only going to be bringing 1 backpack or approx 30-40L?
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swimsalot
It really depends on my goals. I'll bring my Pentax K-3 with one to three lenses if I want to take serious photos. I have a wide-angle to tele zoom, but it isn't fast, so a 50 mm 1.4 or 40 mm 2.8 might be added along with a tripod or monopod. I also have a Pentax 50-200 (I think that is the range, have not used it in a while) zoom that is waterproof, like a number of the Pentax lenses, so that can be a bonus for outdoor work. The camera is water resistant and weather sealed. I have other lenses, but they get heavy when hiking or walking, so I will only bring them if there are specific reasons. I do like my wide angle zoom... I usually travel with a laptop because I always have some work to do, so that gives me a chance to backup photos, which are all shot in RAW.
swimsalot
One backpack really limits you. So here are my suggestions in order of bulk 1) P&S, either compact or medium. I would not bring a BIG P&S cuz then you are up at dslr or mirrorless size and might as well go to that system. 2) Small mirrorless and compact lens; like Olympus OM-D E-M10 with the 14-42 pancake lens. A similar Panasonic with the 12-60mm lens is another alternative, better lens, but the lens is longer. 3) Small dslr with small lens; like Nikon D3400 + 18-55 lens. Depending on where you go, you may or may not want a longer lens. But the above is my suggestion for compact/light carry.
New to the photo game. Where should I start? What camera is a good starter camera?
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ttvo
I recommend getting a kit at first, they normally give you everything you need to start off with, along with a lens or two and then some other goodies. Its more practical to then go out and shoot with your kit and see what you then want to buy later for whatever purpose you want. Canon and Nikon sell pretty decently priced kits and even Massdrop tends to have kits from time to time.
ttvo
Sony A6000 is amazing! It will last you a long long time, works awesome in a variety of situations, it is mirrorless, it is very compact, and comes in at around $600 with a nice Meike 35mm f/1.7.