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eksuen
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Sep 1, 2018
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Your list covers the basics. Regarding a USB cable, you should be able to find plenty of options on Amazon. There are many vendors (Donut Cables, Mimic Cables, WASD Keyboards, etc.) that sell custom cables as well, if that's what you want for your build.
I think any PCB that has an accompanying GUI for programming is a good place to start (e.g. Bootmapper client, NerDy GUI, or any of the preset QMK layouts on https://kbfirmware.com/).
Yes, it's possible to modify off-the-shelf keyboards. It's just a matter of desoldering the switches and LEDs (if there are any) and replacing them with what you want. It's tedious, but feasible. This approach can be cheaper, but it really depends on what layout and features you are after. Keep in mind, however, that it's unlikely that you'll be able program an off-the-shelf keyboard to your liking. So if you go this route, pick a keyboard with a layout you like.

Tools and materials that I use:
- temperature controlled soldering iron This doesn't have to be super fancy. Mine cost <$50 and all that mattered to me is that it went above 400F because I use SAC305 lead-free solder.
- solder Your pick. Lots of people still use Tin-Lead solder. I use lead-free because I choose to be RoHS compliant. Lead-free solder has its issues and disadvantages compared to Tin-Lead, but this is a nonissue because through-hole joints are very robust and keyboards are not meant to be used in extreme environments. If you plan to eventually hand solder all the SMDs yourself, then I recommend you read up on this. If all you are doing is soldering in switches and LEDs, lead-free is fine. Regardless of what you use, make sure you solder in a well ventilated room. Solder fumes are not good for you.
- soldering iron tip cleaner (https://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Iron-Tip-Cleaner-Black/dp/B00J66FSY2)
- solder sucker for desoldering/rework You may want to invest in a heated solder sucker or dedicated desoldering station eventually if you foresee yourself doing lots of mods or rework. I use a cheap one and simply replace it when it breaks (https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Solder-Sucker-Desoldering-Removal/dp/B074ZDCTLV/). It works fine for me, but it took a little practice to get my technique down.
- voltmeter For testing PCBs and LEDs prior to assembly. I usually don't test everything before a build, but it's useful to have.
- flush cutters For snipping LED and/or switch leads. Also useful for converting PCB mount switches to plate mount by snipping off the two plastic legs.
- headlamp Extra illumination for your work area and small spaces. Depending on your room and lighting conditions, there could be shadowing that makes it hard to see exactly what you're doing.
- toothpicks and small paintbrush For applying lube to stabilizers and switches.
- tweezers
- thimble Useful for installing PCB mount switches with a plate. Otherwise your thumbs may feel a bit sore/tender after pushing in lots of switches.
- screwdrivers Phillips for screws, flathead for prying (opening snap-closure cases, removing switches, etc.).
- switch top removal tool For opening switches. https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1363
Sep 1, 2018
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