Click to view our Accessibility Statement or contact us with accessibility-related questions
Kavik
5531
Mar 18, 2019
@mike.j @DougFLA123 Figured out my new setup over the weekend 😁 Since the titanium plate I got was too thick to bend into a cylinder, I decided to go for a hexagon with an open gap to adjust for the final size of the interior barrier (still most likely drilled pvc, but I haven't gone out to buy that yet) Cut out a section first using a nibbler, so that 5 panels sit below the surface of the glass jar, and one panel has a tab coming out of the water for the negative clamp. Set up a fence on my drill press and set the depth to roughly half the thickness of the sheet, then got to work drilling a couple hundred dimples to make fold lines. Then clamped a straight edge to the edge of a table and bent by hand to the appropriate angle. The part with the hand held, drill mounted nibbler got a little sloppy, but the rest came out pretty darn good i think 😁
search

search
That tab has been bent down over the edge of the glass so it's out of the way. Just need to finish filing some edges smooth, so there's no risk of snagging the expensive electrical gloves on anything, and make the inner sleeve, and I'll be all set! Did do a couple test pieces, and it does work well. It seems quicker and more consistent than the stainless steel bowl setup...but I can't say if it really is, or if it's in my head. What I CAN say for certain is it takes up a helluva lot less counter space and feels like a more professional setup
(Edited)
Kavik
5531
Mar 18, 2019
KavikAlso updated the wires and clamps from my power supply, using some larger gauge, high quality wire I had laying around from previous engine grounding projects. Resistance from the wires is practically non-existant now. And learned something interesting in regards to the fade effect. Because there's always the slight delay in getting the piece up to the right color, rather than slowly raising the voltage while slowly pulling the piece out, i tried something a little different... With the voltage set to the high end of the fade i wanted, i dipped the piece quickly in and out of the water. So the end that went in first and came out last spent twice as much time submerged and had time to get up to full color, while the rest only got part way there. Maybe not as consistent as having a high and low voltage in mind ahead of time, but worked well if a smooth fade was more important than a precise scale
search

search

search



DougFLA123
1404
Mar 18, 2019
KavikThat setup looks fantastic! Love that 5 panel piece of titanium...it looks perfect!
DougFLA123
1404
Mar 18, 2019
KavikClever...setting the voltage to the high end of the fade you wanted and dipping the piece quickly in and out of the water! Good stuff!
Kavik
5531
Mar 18, 2019
DougFLA123It's pretty terrible for a 5 panel piece of titanium... Awful really. But for a 6 panel piece I'm pretty proud of how it came out 😂🤣😜
DougFLA123
1404
Mar 18, 2019
KavikLooking down into the glass it looks like perfection! Every angle looks to be exactly 120 degrees!
Kavik
5531
Mar 18, 2019
DougFLA123Lol i was just giving you shit, because it's 6 sides and you said 5. Couldn't help myself, I thought it was funny 😁 Close! They were actually bent to 125°, because of that gap. Was going for largest possible diameter that would fit in my glass cylinder, rather then going for a perfect hexagon
DougFLA123
1404
Mar 18, 2019
KavikYes...from up above it looked like a 5 panel piece plus 1. Initially I thought the sixth panel was detached but touching the other piece.
Kavik
5531
Mar 18, 2019
DougFLA123Ahhhhh, i gotcha. (I thought it was just a typo) Nope, 1 solid piece for a solid connection, since titanium can't be welded back together without special equipment Sort of shaped like this when flat:
search

(Edited)
DougFLA123
1404
Mar 18, 2019
KavikAh yes, the blue print helps a lot. I hope Mike.J checks all of this out. He’ll probably be very impressed. Like you said, it takes up much less space too!
Kavik
5531
Mar 18, 2019
DougFLA123I'm hoping he'll share a shot of his big ol' tank of a setup 😁
Bflying
1105
Mar 19, 2019
KavikThis setup looks great. Looking forward to seeing lots of cool stuff. Your fade method is how I did most of mine also. I don't remember if we have the same power supply. But with mine, you can take advantage of the dip dwell time even more by lowering the amp setting. Then it can take just a hair longer to hit the set voltage, giving a little more time to make a smooth dip in and out. I usually run around 0.5-1.0 amp, depending on the part. But for a fade, I may drop it to well under 0.25 amp.
(Edited)
Kavik
5531
Mar 19, 2019
BflyingThanks man 😁 Mine doesn't allow for independent amp and volt settings exactly.... Mine goes from 0-125 volts, but only goes to 1 Amp max I usually run it in Constant Voltage mode, which allows me to set the voltage and the amperage will adjust as needed depending on the resistance of the piece. The only time it won't hit the target is if the resistance is too high and it would need more tham an amp to get there If I switch to Constant Current mode then i can set the amperage that way... But I can't control what the voltage will climb to. It will just keep rising until it hits the target current. Chances are more likely than not that it wouldn't end up being the color I was after. Could probably slow it down with an inline resistor, or lower the mixture in the water to lower the conductivity...but really not sure it's worth the effort. Even at this setup it felt fairly easy to control, and like I was saying in another part of this thread, i don't plan on doing fades all that often.
(Edited)
Bflying
1105
Mar 19, 2019
KavikDoh! Yes meant amps. Now fixed.
Kavik
5531
Mar 19, 2019
BflyingLol thanks. Edited the question out of mine too. Too finicky of a topic, never know when the wrong person is gonna read the wrong thing and do something bad lol
Kavik
5531
Mar 20, 2019
KavikIf I never drill another hole in a PVC pipe again, it'll be too freaking soon lol
search
121 holes drilled and deburred inside and out. Fits great inside the hexagon. 3" internal diameter for the "dunking well"
search
Just need to trim about half an inch or so off the length, and it'll be time to call this project complete 😁
search
(Don't mind the mess. This was just a mock up, not how things are when I'm actually using it) Next up, figuring out some sort of a jig to dunk both scales together, for better consistency, without them bumping into each other and sparking
(Edited)
DougFLA123
1404
Mar 22, 2019
KavikSince I’m part of this thread, I’m surprised that I don’t get notified when people add to it. Anyway, that looks pretty cool!
Kavik
5531
Mar 22, 2019
DougFLA123Ugh, is it being inconsistent with notifications again? So annoying 😒
Kavik
5531
Mar 26, 2019
DougFLA123Just picked up a cheap rotary tumbler from harbor freight, and a couple different types of media to play with 😈
DougFLA123
1404
Mar 26, 2019
KavikMad scientist or evil genius?! 🤔
Bflying
1105
Mar 26, 2019
KavikWhat media? I just have not been successful doing any stonewash look on anything. It either looks beat to hell, or hard to tell anything was done...not much between. I would love to try stainless rods out. I have a Dillon Vibe for reloading. And a small (half quart maybe?) drum tumbler from my kids' rock polishing days. I've tried out yard pickup rocks, polished rocks, and my brass media, crushed walnut shells and corn cob. I even tried tumbling things with coins and random stuff found around my shop. Decided I may just be better off leaving the initial finish on whatever, and just re-ano.
Bflying
1105
Mar 26, 2019
KavikWould also love to know how the finish was done on my WE Tyche (811A). Really cool random chop effect.
(Edited)
Kavik
5531
Mar 26, 2019
DougFLA123Can't I be both? 🤣
Kavik
5531
Mar 26, 2019
BflyingJust grabbed these there at HF Rust cutting resin pyramids https://m.harborfreight.com/520-lbs-rust-cutting-resin-abrasive-tumbler-media-63672.html Medium ceramic three pointed thingies https://m.harborfreight.com/540-lbs-medium-ceramic-abrasive-polishing-tumbler-media-63673.html No clue yet if either will give anything decent, but will definitely share when I have time to test them out I've heard good things about mixing smaller ceramic media and stainless pins in a vibratory tumbler, but don't know if it will turn out as well in a rotary
Kavik
5531
Mar 26, 2019
BflyingI think that might be doable with less time, using the large ceramic ones I linked above? They're an inch across, and shaped to mostly only hit on the points....but I feel like these are probably better suited to a much larger barrel tumbler. Not sure they're going to have much room to move in this little one I got
DougFLA123
1404
Mar 26, 2019
KavikI don’t know anything about anodizing but what about stainless steel BB’s or copper BB’s?
(Edited)
Bflying
1105
Mar 26, 2019
DougFLA123Good call. I've got a bunch of BB's from our "indoor range" days with my boy. Probably not enough to tumble with, but not expensive to add.
Bflying
1105
Mar 26, 2019
KavikThank you. I'm going to check out that HF media. Waiting to see your results. I'll just sit here hitting refresh on my screen until you have finished product to show. 😁
Bflying
1105
Mar 26, 2019
KavikWould love to recreate this marbled look.
search

Kavik
5531
Mar 26, 2019
BflyingOh. That's different from the image I pulled up on Google with the model number you gave. Maybe disregard my last comment about the tri-point ceramic bits I don't know... Is that tumbler, or tight cell sponge work,with voltage right on the edge of where purple turns blue? It almost looks like fades between the two, not distinct scuffs and scratches that have been re-colored
Kavik
5531
Mar 26, 2019
BflyingLol just don't hold your breath while you're at it. It might take me a little time to get to this
Kavik
5531
Mar 26, 2019
DougFLA123I wonder if stainless would be better? Copper is soft, might wear the copper and leave deposits on the titanium?
Bflying
1105
Mar 26, 2019
KavikIt could be a product of anodizing. But didn't think it was because the pattern is also found on the gray version. Here's some stock pics of the 811B from the manufacturer . The final texture of both is glassy smooth. So maybe it is just a finish.
search
search

DougFLA123
1404
Mar 27, 2019
BflyingI’m going to sit here hitting refresh too! Can’t wait! 🥳
Kavik
5531
Mar 27, 2019
BflyingHmmmm....yeah, I'm curious now too... But need to figure out basic stuff first lol
Kavik
5531
Mar 27, 2019
DougFLA123Got antsy and ran the first two tests while doing some other work tonight. Just gonna leave this here for now, will talk about it when I have more insight
search

DougFLA123
1404
Mar 27, 2019
KavikThat looks good!
Kavik
5531
Mar 27, 2019
DougFLA123In some ways yes, in some ways no 😒 The drum on the 3lb harbor freight tumbler is way too small for knife scales it seems. It's short, so the single handle has to sit at an angle in the drum, leaving the ends wedged against the top and bottom of the drum. As a result, most of the tumbling was done in the middle of the handle, with a medium amount done at the end near the top that faced away from the wall of the barrel, and little tumbling done at the opposite end where the face was too close to the wall to allow the large media to get in there much. 
search
(the pivot end was near the top) But then the actual ends....they got no contact with the media at all
search
This was all done with the 1" ceramic media. Drum filled about a quarter of the way with them, and enough water to almost cover the ceramic bits. Two pics above were after an hour tumbling. It worked faster than I expected with the loose load in there, I should've checked it sooner. But after the pics above I anodized the second time at a slightly lower voltage, tumbled again for about half the time, then anodized a third time with a much lower voltage. I don't remember the numbers, but it was like blue, then purple-ish, then bronze
search
Not that it's not an interesting look... But it's not quite what I was aiming for. It worked better on the clip, which was small enough to move freely inside the drum and have all sides and ends make contact. So, I guess the question now is whether I can modify this to work with a larger drum, or if i should've shelled out for a bigger machine to start 😔 Really annoyed that I couldn't just go straight to the large vibratory tumbler, due to the noise it would make in the apartment
(Edited)
Kavik
5531
Mar 27, 2019
KavikSide note : The new anodizing tank is working like a freaking beast though! Between the upgraded wiring and clamps, the tighter tank, the multi-walled titanium anode, and the thicker gauge titanium wire hanger... Everything is working much quicker and more consistently 😁 I can work a piece up to 100v much faster without pushing it over 1 amp, and have it get down to .005-.01 amps in a matter of a few seconds
DougFLA123
1404
Mar 27, 2019
KavikI think you need to shell out for a bigger machine. It would be less frustrating and there would be more potential to do greater things. It’s not just a hobby expense but it also falls under an entertainment expense (anyway I can justify things, I justify them). Plus you have two guys here, maybe more, who are constantly refreshing their computer screens to see what’s coming up next! : )
DougFLA123
1404
Mar 27, 2019
KavikYou could probably market and sell that anodizing tank! But it would mean drilling a lot of holes!
Kavik
5531
Mar 27, 2019
DougFLA123Scrrrrewwwwwwww that lol If that were to be made en masse, it would NOT be made by drilling by hand lol This could be done as a very slick (and maybe affordable) small parts anodizing tank with professional manufacturing, sure. I can think of multiple improvements I would make if i had access to more materials and could've done a custom mold for the inner sleeve, rather than working with off the shelf pvc diameters, and using a random glass jar I already had on hand. As it is, if was a fun DIY project, and I made it work without having a real metal brake, or a clean way of cutting the titanium...but it's too sloppy for sales lol
(Edited)
DougFLA123
1404
Mar 27, 2019
KavikDIY projects are fun and rewarding (when successful) and this project of yours actually produces cool things. It’s the gift that keeps on giving! : )
Kavik
5531
Mar 27, 2019
BflyingMuch less "beat to hell" than my first experiment :
search
Filled the tumbler about a quarter of the way with the aggressive ceramic bits, then threw in a good sized handful of the less abrasive, and smaller, resin pyramids...figured they would act as a buffer, reduce the impact from the cersmics while still not overstuffing it and allowing it to get a good tumble going. Anodized green/teal (95v), tumbled for an hour. Anodized gold (55v) Doesn't show as well in the pics, but I think it came out real nice. The edges are nicely "worn" looking, and the flats have a very subtle mottling pretty evenly throughout
Bflying
1105
Mar 28, 2019
KavikI took a look at the HF tumblers. The dual drum model looks almost exactly like the old one I've got, but blue. And just remembered that my Dillon vibe tumbler went tails up. So I replaced it with a cheap, and smaller, Frankford. I wondered if I just needed more room in the container to get that hard hitting full coverage look. So maybe a minimum of a 15lb capacity or larger. Which is why I was looking for a larger tumbler at one point. Similar to this pic of a 15lb-er I snak'd off Midway. And while I have no experience with these, I can't help but think the flat side walls would also be of some benefit to achieve a look similar to a factory finish. But, still just speculation, as my results with the two polishers I have were less than desirable.
search

Kavik
5531
Mar 28, 2019
BflyingYeah, i had meant to get the dual drum version, but grabbed the wrong box somehow and didn't even realize till I got home. While it still uses 2 drums of the same length, and wouldn't have fixed my current issue with the handle being too long, I at least could've made my own single drum to fit the longer bed. Kicking myself now. I think your right though, a larger diameter drum, with flat sides instead of round, might be better overall for hard hitting, loose loads. Or for more movement in those smoother finished heavier loads. I just don't want to be spending $150+ on a tumbler and buying that much more media to find out that I'm only going to use this half a dozen times 😒
(Edited)
Bflying
1105
Mar 28, 2019
KavikMaybe only used a half dozen times. Or looking way down the road, it may get used 6 times. ;) But on the bright side, your trial 'n error education, becomes our vicarious education. Do it for the good of mankind. :D
Kavik
5531
Mar 28, 2019
BflyingHahaha the good of mankind gets too expensive
Bflying
1105
Mar 29, 2019
KavikThen do it for the children. The Children Kavik, THE C H I L D R E E E E N !! 😂
Kavik
5531
Mar 29, 2019
DougFLA123
1404
Mar 29, 2019
BflyingAh yes, doing it for the kids! 🥺
Kavik
5531
Apr 2, 2019
BflyingWell, i didn't go huge or expensive, but i did trade up to the dual drum from harbor freight, and picked up some supplies to make one big long drum, instead of having 2 separate small ones. So, might not be the answer to aggressive, looser, hard hitting loads, but should solve my problem of not being able to hit the ends of a full size knife handle. While only costing about $25 more and not taking up much more space
search
I imagine the pvc will be a bit louder than the rubber drums though 😒
Bflying
1105
Apr 2, 2019
KavikNice! How do you get that monster tube to spin without sitting down in the machine?
Kavik
5531
Apr 2, 2019
BflyingLol Home Depot only sold it in 2' or 10' lengths. The whole 2 feet isn't being used, it's been cut down to the same length as the 2 original individual tumblers combined.
search
One end was then permanently sealed by gluing in a knock out test plug (i think that's what it was called) It's an end cap that fits inside the pipe, instead of on the outside. I used this because I didn't want anything bumping out on the outside of the pipe. But it's a fragile cap. Intended to be glued in place to test under low pressure, then get knocked out. So i strengthened it first with a thin layer of epoxy on the inside, then i filled the half inch depth of the outside with epoxy. It's now thicker and more solid than the walls of the pipe. For added flare, i dropped a bunch of the corkscrews from the titanium sheet drilling into the outside epoxy just for fun lol
search
The other end of the tube gets a rubber plug that expands inside when you tighten down the wingnut
search
All i have left to do is modify the body of the unit to allow clearance for the wings, and it'll be ready to roll........... 🤣🤣🤣 Pun intended
DougFLA123
1404
Apr 2, 2019
KavikReally nice!
Kavik
5531
Apr 2, 2019
DougFLA123Thanks man. I'm just really hoping it still works as well with the smooth interior, as opposed to the grippy rubber of the original drums. And hopefully the increased noise won't be too ridiculous. I don't have a regular nut on hand here to test it out before cutting the notch for the wingnut though. Maybe I should go pick one up tonight, BEFORE the irreparable alterations to the tumbler unit lol
DougFLA123
1404
Apr 2, 2019
KavikThat’s interesting...if it’s not grippy inside, will the stuff just slide around instead of tumble. Hmmm. I’ll be interested to hear the results.
Kavik
5531
Apr 3, 2019
DougFLA123Can confirm it works, it tumbles, and it is louder than the rubber. But manageable. Wasn't thrilled with my first test piece, but I think that has more to do with me not knowing how much media to use yet, and not the fault of the new drum. It definitely got the ends better. Not as much as the sides of course, because it's a rotary tumbler and not a vibratory one, but much much better. Many more experiments to come 😁
Bflying
1105
Apr 3, 2019
KavikVery nice.
DougFLA123
1404
Apr 3, 2019
KavikExcellent!
Kavik
5531
Apr 3, 2019
BflyingPvc drum test with green resin pyramids only, no ceramic media. Drum about a third full or so, water added to just below the top of the media :
search
Thin edges, only large surfaces showing much wear
search
Softer fade on edges, surfaces showing more wear
search
search
Well defined, yet soft edges. Surface areas showing machine marks pretty clearly at this point Tumbled and re-anodized:
search
EDIT : THAT'S 15V PURPLE, NOT 12V
search
I dig it, very natural looking wear pattern.
(Edited)
DougFLA123
1404
Apr 3, 2019
KavikPretty cool!
Kavik
5531
Apr 3, 2019
DougFLA123Thanks man 😁 I'm eager to hear if this is the less beat up sort of finish that @Bflying was looking for
(Edited)
Bflying
1105
Apr 4, 2019
KavikThat looks great! Pretty much what I would expect for an anodized two tone effect. Though I'd still really like to know what the formula is for a full surface stonewashed look. Like you see on the blades of some of Kershaws current knives such as the basic Natrix, or Bareknucle. Or on my pic below of an HTM Lambert Snap. Is it the media....type? Size? Tumbler type? Size? Or all of the above, but subjective to the size of the part being done? Yeah, my mind goes crazy when I see something I like, but don't know exactly how it was created. I understand that this example is on steel, and I'm looking to mostly affect Ti, but maybe some blades too. May also try some form of jeweling at some point. I think that would be a cool surface effect to ano on. I tried to capture a pic of the Snap edge. I like to add a jeweled look to some of the edges I sharpen. Hard to capture a photo, but looks really neat when seen in daylight. Almost like a little sparkly light show in sunlight.
search
search




Bflying
1105
Apr 4, 2019
KavikThis was an interesting video that I just stumbled into. Sounds like you may have saved yourself a bunch of hastle down the road, by changing out the drum to PVC. https://youtu.be/r48bgw8p3Sg


Kavik
5531
Apr 4, 2019
BflyingLol interesting video, good to know 😁 There are sooooo many variables to explore here Media type, media shape, media size Aggressive media at short times, less aggressive at longer times...non aggressive (like steel balls) with powdered grit suspended in the water...but then you also have to consider if you're abrading the surface, or work hardening the surface... And does work hardening in like a micro hammered pattern change the surface enough to change how the light bounces off? Is that maybe how that one multi colored WE was done? Is it layers of anodizing? Or different surface textures making the anodizing take differently? It's a bit mind boggling.....but i'm the same man, it's more about figuring out the HOW, less about needing the final product
Kavik
5531
Apr 5, 2019
BflyingAnd I was a bit rushed replying earlier, but.... Yes, jeweling is a whole other pre-anodizing finish that could be awesome. Same with masking and sending in different directions or patterns. As for the stonewashed blades, I think to get that consistent finish, with such full coverage, it's just a question of leaving it in a LOT longer. You've got to make sure every little bit of the surface manages to get hit with the media, not just the high points, and not just here and there. Probably talking hours and hours, maybe even a day or more (no actual idea... But look at the size of the individual dings, and think about how long it might take to get them to randomly hit everywhere, while wasting a bunch of time hitting places that have already been hit) I think for that I'd rather set up a small media blasting cabinet, to have more control and speed up the process
Bflying
1105
Apr 15, 2019
KavikAs an FYI. Was discussing my Tyche finish with someone I thought may know how it was done. He thought it could actually be the grain structure composition in the alloy itself. As a possible "happy accident", it may or may not even be repeatable. And if so, certainly not able to install on another piece. But, the more that I think about surface finishes, the more that I would really like to see how jeweled Ti would anodize.
Kavik
5531
Apr 15, 2019
BflyingOddly enough, I just ran across something on this page here just 2 days ago https://www.reactivemetals.com/titanium Take a look at the "Krystal Titanium", and the description for it Also, I'm going to try ordering some of the Multi-Etch from there https://www.reactivemetals.com/patinas-chemicals Take a look at the difference in the colors in the video! 😲 Looks like it'll do way better than Whink for etching, and doesn't immediate eat through polished surfaces
DougFLA123
1404
Apr 16, 2019
KavikInteresting video!
Bflying
1105
Apr 16, 2019
KavikThat Krystal Ti is very close to what I see on my Tyche. Crazy sexy stuff (as far as metal goes 😁). I've also been tempted to try Multi-etch. Looking forward to seeing your side-by-side comparison.
Kavik
5531
Apr 16, 2019
BflyingIt's a little more complicated, requiring heat and proper ventilation. Might be a little bit before I get to it, but I'll certainly share when I do
DougFLA123
1404
Apr 21, 2019
Kavik@Kavik @Bflying Is something like this hard to do? ZT0801TiBlu Sprint run.
search

(Edited)
Kavik
5531
Apr 21, 2019
DougFLA123The description I found of the one said a bead blasted finish on the handle, but parts of it look polished....without seeing it in person, this would be my guess in recreating those pics: Start with a polished titanium, anodize it the higher voltage bright blue. Then mask off the area you want to keep that way (vinyl, or paint on nail polish, or whatever) and etch the piece to remove the color from the exposed areas and give it a slightly matte finish. Remove the mask and dip again at the lower voltage blue That should give the two tone reflective and dull look in the second pic (assuming you don't actually have a blasting cabinet)
(Edited)
DougFLA123
1404
Apr 21, 2019
KavikMost of the pics I’ve seen look like the first/top pic. I have yet to see the knife reviewed which would give a better idea of how it looks while moving it around. Edit: I just watched a Weekly Update (Week 16 - 2019) video by Tyler of GPKnives and he said of the ZT0801TiBlu, that the scale uses blue for the multi-colored laser etched anodization. You probably know better than me what that means. It sounds sophisticated.
(Edited)
Bflying
1105
Apr 21, 2019
DougFLA123I've been intrigued by these a bit. Mostly from the "how's it done" angle. USA Made Blade, and BladesWeLove have added this Fauxmascus stuff to their lineup of added value customization. Right off the bat I noticed that multiple models side by side were absolutely identical in placement. While possible with some form of mask, I have been convinced that it was a laser product.
search
search
search


Kavik
5531
Apr 21, 2019
DougFLA123Yeah, i haven't really looked into the laser etching for patterns (since I don't have a laser engraver lol) I don't know if the heat from the laser actually colors the metal? Or if it's just used to bring it back to bare metal for the second dip
DougFLA123
1404
Apr 21, 2019
KavikNo laser for etching patterns on knife scales?!? I have to say...I’m a little disappointed. 🥺
DougFLA123
1404
Apr 21, 2019
BflyingYes, must be a laser to crank out a lot of them with that precision.
Kavik
5531
Apr 21, 2019
DougFLA123Lol yeah, you and me both
Kavik
5531
Apr 21, 2019
DougFLA123Another fun thought that crosses my mind for randomized patterns is hydro dipping..... Wonder if there a way to do that with negative space 🤔
DougFLA123
1404
Apr 22, 2019
KavikUmmm...my head hurts.
Kavik
5531
Apr 22, 2019
DougFLA123Lol take a break, there's no rush in enjoying your hobbies 😁 That said, i do have a new Megatherium in my possession that I've been debating what to do about anodizing. Your question got me starting the polishing process tonight, though. I'm going to give this two tone, two texture, pattern thing a try
DougFLA123
1404
Apr 22, 2019
KavikWhen you mentioned hydro dipping for randomized patterns and negative space...my brain shut down. I had nothin’ ! 😧. What I do have is a Megatherium and the detent is sooo much better than the Minitherium !
Kavik
5531
Apr 22, 2019
DougFLA123Yes! Detent is sooooo much better on the Mega! However, I think i might hate you for getting the idea of polishing it out in my head lol Do you have any idea the magnitude of machining marks Kizer is capable of concealing beneath their blasted finishes? Holy hell. I lost track of the hours I spent sanding last night, and I'm only just to the point where it's done with the micro mesh pads and ready to polish on one half. The other half isn't even touched yet 😳😫 Edit : requisite crappy cell phone pic of the partial progress
search

(Edited)
DougFLA123
1404
Apr 22, 2019
KavikLol. All I remember is that I asked the ZT Sprint Run question... “Is something like this hard to do?” Then there was talk about lasers and the disappointment that you didn’t have laser etching equipment........Yet! That polished scale does look pretty darn good though!
Kavik
5531
Apr 22, 2019
DougFLA123It's still a ways off from being done, but it's getting there The closer it gets, the more I think i liked the matte finish better though lol But, since I also don't have a media blaster, to return it to the stock finish, I'm kinda committed now 😅
Kavik
5531
Apr 22, 2019
DougFLA123A few minutes on the buffer on my lunch break got it much closer to ready, just a couple hazy spots to go back over later. Don't want to post aimlessly about every step along the way, but wanted to share the difference between the last step with the sanding pads
search
search

DougFLA123
1404
Apr 22, 2019
KavikWow, check out that reflection!
Bflying
1105
Apr 23, 2019
KavikWow!! I've done some two tones with the flats taken out to 5k grit (ZT's 0801, 0808, & 0055), but nothing close to mirror. That looks amazing.
Kavik
5531
Apr 23, 2019
BflyingIn all honesty, I'm not completely proud of the results. The facets on this one aren't flat, despite the hard looking angles. I would've preferred that they were, so that I could've taken this to the stones and really gotten the metal truly flat before polishing. It's mirrored, sure, but with that orange peel look you get when the surface wasn't perfectly smooth before polishing. Short of being able to put it to the stones, the show side went from 500-1k wet/dry paper, then 1,500-12k micro polishing pads. Then white polishing compound on a stitched cotton wheel, then green compound on a loose cotton wheel The opposite scale got the buffing wheels only. I wanted to see what the difference would be for the amount of time spent sanding. I'll figure this one out after playing with the mirrored anodizing first. If I do this again it will be on something with real flats next time, leveled with diamond plates, polished on stones up to 15k. Then through whatever the lapping films are that I have... Forget their highest grit off the top of my head. Then, only onto the wheels of they don't look like a real mirror after that. IF the final product of this experiment inspires me to do another, big if at the moment
(Edited)
Kavik
5531
Apr 23, 2019
KavikFffuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu..... My power supply suddenly won't go over 27.6V 😫 Fuse is good, but with or without load it won't go any higher So, I guess I gotta figure that out now But here's 20v on a polished surface at least
search

search
You can see the orange peel texture i mentioned in the first pic. Colors up to 27 were amazingly vibrant though *sigh*
DougFLA123
1404
Apr 23, 2019
KavikI guess you didn’t smell anything when the power supply stopped going over 27.6V ? Could be a transistor somewhere in the circuitry burned up or opened up. I wonder if the Power Supply customer service or tech department could help out somehow?
Kavik
5531
Apr 23, 2019
DougFLA123Nope, didn't notice any smell or smoke...that was the first thing I did, sniffed it lol Usually when turning up the voltage there's a couple spots along the way where I would hear an internal click, like a relay switch or something...not hearing that now, but can't say for certain if that happened around 2 before I'm going to call them on my lunch break in a few minutes to see what they say. It should still be under warranty Edit: yup... I gotta pay to ship it back to Cali, and wait 2-3 weeks to get it back 😔 Guess everything's on hold for a bit
(Edited)
DougFLA123
1404
Apr 23, 2019
KavikThat’s interesting and suspicious not hearing the ‘possible relay’ click anymore while turning it up.
Bflying
1105
Apr 23, 2019
KavikJust spit ballin' here. Not sure how your machine works, but is it possible to have been switched from cV to cA? Mine is triggered simply by which knob is set first. I turn up the Amp to my Max allowable, then set the voltage number. If I do it the other way around, I think the lights show a switch to Constant Amps. I could have sworn something happened to my power supply within the first week of use. I thought that my early tests on constant voltage would throw whatever amperage needed to hit the voltage setting almost instantly. But all of a sudden it seemed to just crawl up the amp scale until the V was hit. Could just be my imagination, as it was a new toy at the time. But sure seemed to act differently. Fortunately it will still climb the full scale. Just need to give it plenty of time now if going to higher volts.
Kavik
5531
Apr 23, 2019
BflyingAnd that was my second thought, after sniffing for any burning smells lol This one is a single knob control, with a push button switch to go between CC and CV. By default it starts in CV, but with this new problem it's switching itself over to CC mode at the point where the voltage stops rising, and clicking the button will do nothing more to switch it back. Seems like it might be a failsafe function so it can't try to draw more than it can safely put out (which is also why I tried a new fuse as step 3, thinking it was in a forced safety mode)
Kavik
5531
Apr 23, 2019
KavikI'm not fixing it myself, but curiosity DID get the better of me. Exploratory ONLY 'peek under the hood' Don't think the 200v capacitor is supposed to look like this 🙄
search
Frustrating that it could very well be a simple as replacing that part, but to get to that board would require dismantling 90% of the internals
DougFLA123
1404
Apr 23, 2019
KavikYes, that capacitor does not look good. What a pain in the butt! The least they could do is pay for shipping.
Bflying
1105
Apr 23, 2019
KavikSweet. Playing with capacitors is fun. Be sure to touch it to your tongue when you get it out. 😁😜
Kavik
5531
Apr 23, 2019
DougFLA123Yeah...when he said "let me set up an RMA, i assumed he was going to send me a shipping label...but then he just gave me the address to ship it to. @Bflying lol sure thing, I'll get right on that The annoying part is I just found this exact capacitor on ebay.....$6 for a pair. Gonna cost me 3x that to ship this thing 🙄 But with my luck I'd do the work, void the warranty, then find out it also melted a pathway on the board or something
(Edited)
DougFLA123
1404
Apr 23, 2019
KavikVery true. It could be multiple things. It’s a good thing you’re sending it in.
Bflying
1105
May 8, 2019
Kavik
5531
May 8, 2019
BflyingHoly shit..... So it DOES do the coloring in one shot! With, I assume, varying the intensity of the laser? (heat)
DougFLA123
1404
May 8, 2019
BflyingWow, Incredible!
reswright
3850
May 22, 2019
Kavik Was a surprise the first time it happened to me too (discovering what hides beneath stonewash.) It is the popcorn ceiling of knife finishes.
(Edited)
Kavik
5531
May 22, 2019
reswrightThe popcorn ceiling 🤣🤣🤣 Well put
DougFLA123
1404
May 22, 2019
KavikHave you received your power supply back yet?
Kavik
5531
May 22, 2019
DougFLA123😪 I haven't sent it in... I got it boxed up, got shipping quotes, then i was out of town for a bit, then life got hectic and I couldn't decide if it was really worth it. Damn thing is going to cost me close to $50 to ship, and I have issues paying a third of the cost of an item for "free" warranty covered repairs (especially for what is probably just that $3 capacitor) I think I'm going to end up buying another unit, and just try replacing that capacitor myself later on
(Edited)
DougFLA123
1404
May 22, 2019
KavikI can’t blame. I wouldn’t want to pay 1/3 the cost of the item either. I’d probably buy a new one and see if I could fix the old one too. Would you buy the same one or look a different makes and models?
Kavik
5531
May 22, 2019
DougFLA123I'll look around a bit, but wouldn't rule out looking at the same one if nothing else is within a reasonable price range I've accidentally shorted this thing multiple times, i can't say it was purely just a bad unit...could be i put extra strain on the capacitor while working out the kinks in my safety barriers
(Edited)
Bflying
1105
May 22, 2019
KavikThis is the model I'm using. Searching the model, I see prices from $60-$130. I paid the higher end, but came with express shipping. Got it from China in 6 days. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F263168440086

Kavik
5531
May 22, 2019
BflyingThanks, I'll add it to the list to look at 👍
DougFLA123
1404
May 31, 2019
KavikHmmm, Gravity knives are now legal in NY!
Kavik
5531
May 31, 2019
DougFLA123Source??!!??
reswright
3850
May 31, 2019
KavikI see it in the Post. Cuomo signed the bill.
DougFLA123
1404
May 31, 2019
Kavik
5531
May 31, 2019
DougFLA123Hot damn. It's about freaking time!! Thanks for the link, i was swamped at work and saw this right before going back from a break, didn't have time to search. This is awesome. I just hope it isn't followed by more ridiculous, and more specific / better worded laws to make up the gap. It was SUCH an abused law. Basically a guaranteed arrest for almost anyone with a pocket knife, or folding box cutter even 🙄
Bflying
1105
Jun 1, 2019
KavikHere's Doug Ritter's post on BladeForums... https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/freedom-wins-in-new-york-da-vance-cuomo-finally-capitulate.1664748/ Sounds like a great step forward in today's crazy world. But, as we all probably already know, there are still a few thousand other ways current laws can be "interpreted", or just plain abused, to compromise an otherwise law abiding citizen. Though still a pretty amazing and hard earned baby step.
Kavik
5531
Jun 2, 2019
BflyingYeah, it's pretty incredible. Time to revisit the idea of visiting the KnifeRights site and looking at the contribution/donation forms. That cost them a shit ton of money to fight for us!
reswright
3850
Jun 2, 2019
KavikDoug Ritter has a nice looking preorder at Knifeworks. I’ve been thinking of putting my name on for one. Prolly will now. Not my state but it is my fight. https://www.knifeworks.com/knives/rskmk1g2.html


Kavik
5531
Jun 2, 2019
reswrightThanks for sharing that too, definitely interested after doing a bit of reading there tonight
reswright
3850
Jan 4, 2020
KavikIf you tool that piece of titanium out, put copper in its place, took your titanium scale, coated it in wax or something nonconductive, then carved it to expose parts of the titanium - say, the grooves in a milled Ti scale — and got a new power source and ran your rig, could you copperplate those Ti grooves with your rig?
Kavik
5531
Jan 6, 2020
reswrightIn theory, electrplating is very similar, yes. I say in theory only because I've never attempted it myself, and have never seen anyone plate titanium. But yes, a low voltage is all that's needed Then you need a copper cathode (the negatively charged plate). Also, hang your piece from a copper wire as well, instead of titanium, so you aren't plating your titanium anode. Then you need copper suspended in your solution, either by disolving some copper wire, or by adding copper sulfate. The copper held in suspension is what will attract and bond with your positively charged piece That said, some metals bond better with others, and some react with each other. A quick Google search lead me to this site : https://www.sharrettsplating.com/base-materials/titanium Which says they first plate titanium with Nickel, then go over the Nickel with gold/silver/copper There's also a link in the to another article about issues with plating over titanium that may be worth a read Edit : just saw in that link a section that reads "Heat-treat in an inert-gas atmosphere at 480°C for two hours to promote adhesion", while discussing titanium's tendancy for rapid oxidization as being one of the challenges with plating this particular metal......there may be a reason I haven't seen it done as a diy on YouTube lol
(Edited)
reswright
3850
Jan 6, 2020
KavikPlate nickel first, eh? Interesting. I do remember from my p-chemistry classes that titanium has some quirks, but still, the whole 'inert gas for 48 hours' thing suggests that the PITA factor on this would be.... a little more than I figured, lol.
Kavik
5531
Jan 6, 2020
reswrightWell, bearing in mind that you'd be doing it for looks, while others would be doing it for functional purposes where physical wear resistance might be more of an actual concern.....could always give it a shot and see if it works well enough for your needs. Worst case scenario is to just sand it back down, right? 😁
PRODUCTS YOU MAY LIKE
Trending Posts in More Community Picks