*Help* Screw in stabilizers not fitting in Dropshift V2 keyboard
I'm trying to build a mechanical keyboard with screw in stabilizers, I've build some mechanical keyboards with click-in stabilizers, never with screw in. Somehow one of the pins of the metal top-part collides with the screw in stabilizer of the numpad "enter key". I already tried grinding of a bit of the pin that collides with the stabilizer, but unfortunately I can't make it fit/close properly. You can see that the pin of the toppart leaves a mark on the bottompart of the stabilizer, see picture 2. What am I missing? Using Durock V2 in a Dropshift fullsize V2. See pictures below, thanks in advance!
Apr 23, 2024
"They’re still mechanical switches (the Wooting One ships with both Red and Blue switches), but the sensing method is different than Cherry MX and its clones. Instead of two metal contacts touching and triggering a key event, an optical sensor mounted on the PCB detects the switch stem’s depth as it plunges...
Because optical switches don’t have to be soldered, they’re by nature hot-swappable... the caps are ABS plastic. They’re black UV-coated with laser-ablated lettering... You can set the actuation point [with software] anywhere between 1.5-4mm. " (Tom's Hardware)
"The keyboard ships with either Linear55 "Red" or Clicky55 "Blue" switches, which are intended to simulate the feel of Cherry's popular similarly-named switches. Wooting one's keys feel about the same as any other high-end mechanical keyboard, such as Corsair's K70 or Razer's Blackwidow." (TechSpot)
https://www.pcgamesn.com/wooting-analogue-mechanical-gaming-keyboard-review