Vorak@chornodid@to1ne@wjanssens@nicodemus <br /><br />Want to organize an MX Brown group buy?<br />So far, that's six of us interested: 76 x 6 = 456 switches <br />If we find one more person or each order a few extra that's over 500 switches. I'm not 100% sure which exact model we need (MX1A-G1xx is the brown type, but the xx specifies other details, and I'm not sure which is ideal). <br /><br />Based on the link posed earlier: http://www.onlinecomponents.com/cherry-electrical-mx1ag1dn.html?p=11075433<br /><br />If that's the right switch, 76 x $0.55 = $41.80 + shipping<br />The only trouble is that we would have to be patient and wait for restocking.
Nikolas@Nikolas thanks thanks for the offer and good on you for being proactive. i'm sure others will join you, but wthe more research i do i think in the end i'll probably just end up getting the Blues. i'm getting this keyboard for grad school papers. :)
NikolasJudging by a hodgepodge of information here's the model number we need.<br /><br />MX1A-G1NW (PCB mounted, not sure whether we need the diode. If so, change the N to a D)<br /><br />For led versions, the 2nd to last letter would be changed as follows:<br />N - No LED, no diode<br />R - Red LED, no diode<br />G - Green LED, no diode<br />Y - Yellow LED, with diode<br />D - No LED, with diode<br />J - W/ Jumper wire, no LED, no diode.
pocketdrummerHaving the diode in the switch is oh so convenient when soldering, but if you go with those you'll have to either flip all the diodes in the switches for the left hand (which you can do, carefully, with a nicely bent paperclip), or change a `#define` option in the firmware and recompile. Also, the diodes will have to be removed from the three switches on the right hand side with indicator LEDs, and those switches will have to have diodes soldered in the normal way (i.e. SMDs or (carefully trimmed!) through hole diodes on the underside).
NikolasI'm puzzled by choosing what is best fit my tired fingers. Especially for right pinky. May be for my non-standart SDFV-NJKL home position :) It was my try to ergonomise regular KB. <br /><br />After reading http://www.overclock.net/t/491752/mechanical-keyboard-guide#post_6009482 it still haven't been clear (not pun detected :)) what to choose. <br /><br />It'll be my first mechanical KB so I can't find out if it matters for my fingers to have 'the reset point & actuation point are close' (true for Browns and Clears and not true for Blues) and 'low actuation force' (low for Browns, higher for Clears and average for Blues). My current KB is Microsoft Natural Ergonomic 4000 and its key travel and 60g actuation force seem hard on long distances.<br /><br />Further rising of cost also matters for me so I can't accept your offer to group for separate Brown switch order.
chornodidGo here: http://www.maxkeyboard.com/max-keyboard-keycap-cherry-mx-switch-o-ring-sampler-kit.html<br /><br />It's a test kit so you can feel the differences between the switches. It's $8 +shipping and it has Red, Black, Blue, and Brown. So, you'll have to test the brown and imagine what it would feel like with a slightly bigger bump and a higher actuation force.<br /><br />Also, you'll probably want to order it immediately so it gets to you in time to decide which switch to get. If all else fails, if you like the browns best you can go for clear and sell/trade for browns later (or try you hand at modding them to ergo-clear or panda-clears).
pocketdrummer@pocketdrummer@benblazak another option might be to start a massdrop for an inexpensive keyboard with the right kindof brown switches - some will buy the keyboard just for its own sake - others will buy to harvest and then desolder the switches...but that depends on whether people would rather work hard and get switches fast or not work hard and wait potentially a long time.