To negotiate the best possible price for our customers, we agree to hide prices prior to logging in.
401 requests
Product Description
The CC4 whetstone is designed for honing and finishing folders, fixed blades, kitchen knives, and more. It has two sides: one side made of synthetic sapphires (the dark gray side) for initial sharpening and one super-fine ceramic stone (the white side) to finish off the edge Read More
I think it's pretty lame to see that grit rating. Sure, it's copied directly from the Fallkniven specs, but I think anyone who's ever used micron grit ratings even a few times would notice straight away.
Stones below 1.0 micron are very expensive and specialised, like the Shapton 30,000 which costs hundreds of dollars.
Honestly, writing 0.1 micron is as ridiculous as writing that a Toyota Corolla has 2500 horsepower. It makes me think that massdrop doesn't stand behind their product descriptions, and is selling products from manufacturers who don't either. Not to mention it'd be breaking the law, in my country.
JW556Haha, they should just say "teensy weensy"!!!
They make it sound like they craft the ceramics in their own big dark workshop, mixing by hand until it's just right. I wonder if they do manufacture it themselves?
I agree with you, though, they do seem to care. Thanks, I'm glad you posted that, it's different to what I expected.
Corrections to the ad copy here:
1. The grey side is the coarser side, and should be used BEFORE the white side (the ad copy has it backwards).
2. I personally own this stone and can attest to the fact that the grit rating for the white side is NOT 0.1 micron. There's plenty of other people who have observed this as well, google "Fallkniven CC4 Cliff Stamp" to see a much better explanation with photos. I would say it's about the same grit rating as a Spyderco Fine stone.
Nevertheless, it's a great pocket stone to have for touch ups.
An interesting thing has occurred to me recently, while doing some research on old barber hones... I'm curious if the same applies here, in relation to the inability to get a straight answer on the grit rating on these Fallkniven stones?
With the old barber hones, the actual grit particles were WAY too coarse for razor finishing, but these stones were for exactly that. How?
The answer was in the prep and finish of the surface of the hone, not in the size of the abrasive particles it contained.
They were made by combining the grit and a binder material and pressing it into a form.
When lapping the surface, using a harder material, you abrade both the binder and the abrasives, but at different rates.
So, lapping with a coarse plate will cut more of the binder material, leaving a larger amount of "grit" protruding from the surface, giving you a coarser stone.
Lapping to progressively finer grits, and burnishing the surface, leaves you with a very fine cutting surface, where the "grit" is more even with the surface, and therefore can't bite in as deeply on the blade, essentially making it a finer stone...without literally changing the grade of the abrasives used to make it
Just my ramling 2 cents, if anyone is interested
haha i saw the chinese 12k, and was like 'oh those amazon ones.' they're still pretty high grit in my experience, but definitely not exactly what is advertised.
definitely gonna try out linen strops, i keep forgetting this is a viable strop material since i never wear jeans. i was trying out balsa, but i didnt like the application. i also heard horse leather is a really good plain strop, so i'll be sure to pick some up if it becomes available at my local leather store.
method_burgerLol yeah, the infamous C12k...they were an eBay only thing back when I got mine
I do like horsehide strops. Have a Walking Horse brand one, and a couple i made. They have a very light draw, almost slick feeling. The only downside is that the leather is much thinner than cowhide. On a hanging strop, that means you have to watch out for cupping, on a paddle strop that's not an issue, of course. You have to oil them a little more often (neatsfoot oil, just a couple drops rubbed into your hand, then rub your palm over the strop for a bit), but not TOO often, or you will lose that smooth, light draw.
I have a few homemade that work well, but i haven't come close to finding any leather as good as my Tony Miller Old Timer steerhide with linen. (again, i use this plain, no pastes or sprays)
He's not cheap, but he has amazing materials and craftsmanship
BigJDYou can certainly use this to sharpen almost any steel (I have this one) but I would not recommend this as a single- stone solution. I prefer diamond for sharpening difficult steels (I hate sharpening S30V, I’d rather sharpen M4 or CTS-XHP all day long) I use this as a touch-up stone in the field. It’s really too small for a main sharpening stone anyways. If you want similar stone that works for everything I’d recommend a DMT coarse/fine Dia-sharp stone. The 6 inch is ok, but an 8 inch is ideal if it’s your only stone.