Cool white emitter, strike one.
Mismatched patterns on the head and body, strike two.
No L-M-H config, strike three.
Three strikes you are out.
Regrettably this will be a pass for me despite the copper.
Perhaps if they fixed the patterns and put a decent emitter in it? A Nichia 219C would be ideal for this application, with the low forward voltage, good tint, good CRI, and respectable output.
BigGuy42Man, every time I get on here and look at this Preon, I start writing my rant on just how stupid Preon is, same mistakes over and over. So I spend a half hour writing my rant then delete and come to my senses and write something short and a little more sane, this is short believe me pal, but really this light has made me mad.
Preon asks for comments and I'm a BLFer, but what happens? Absolutely nothing, I say their product just got much worse than it was when it was only aluminum, just because, now they step in to the high end materials Cu and Ti will be next but yet they will again make the same mistakes, same clip as always, narrow marketing to people who know nothing yet about high CRI, and on and on, this thing puts out less light than a Cu Lumintop Tool,
This light should easily be putting out 180 OTF, that's min. IMO, could be much more, I know I could take this light and build a beast out of it with parts on hand here send it to Preon and they still wouldn't get it.. OK I'm done, Sorry.. Ha... No I'm not.. I'm a flashaholic in the best of ways.. If they only added options for different emitters that would be a lite years type improvement. Even just a 80+ whatever CRI, anything but what their using, that cool white now literally makes me ill.. ha ha ha, once you go high CRI you never go back.. Fact..
BigGuy42Why do so many people seem to dislike cool white? I absolutely cannot stand that dirty, yellowish light of high CRI LEDs. The pure white is much better looking and higher-tech feeling.
JalucianI used to feel the same but have learned that neutral/warm LEDs are only "dirty" when you compare beam shots against a white wall.
When you start using and comparing them outside it quickly becomes apparent that cool white is actually the "dirtier" light, making everything look dead, pale, and generally not pleasant to look at.
Higher color accuracy also means more detail, which allows you to identify different objects quicker; notice in this photo how much the cool white kills the red in the soil and branches.
JalucianHave you tried 5000k Nichia 219Bs(90+ CRI) or Nichia219Cs (80+ CRI)? Take them out in daylight and they match sunlight, very clean tint and pleasant. The extra color means that even at relatively low outputs they illuminate better rather just lighting something up. This extra detail and depth of field is very useful when actually needing to observe or look for something.
Cree's Hi CRI LEDs tend to be well below 4000k and much too warm for my taste, but the point is you have the option of both depending on which range you prefer. I have a distaste for Cree in general, I always find their tints to be poor and mixed, not to mention the prevalence of blue-cool white LEDs at 6500k+
Hope that helps some.
When you start using and comparing them outside it quickly becomes apparent that cool white is actually the "dirtier" light, making everything look dead, pale, and generally not pleasant to look at.
Higher color accuracy also means more detail, which allows you to identify different objects quicker; notice in this photo how much the cool white kills the red in the soil and branches.
Cree's Hi CRI LEDs tend to be well below 4000k and much too warm for my taste, but the point is you have the option of both depending on which range you prefer. I have a distaste for Cree in general, I always find their tints to be poor and mixed, not to mention the prevalence of blue-cool white LEDs at 6500k+ Hope that helps some.