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Gagl
69
Sep 17, 2017
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baechooboi
83
Sep 18, 2017
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ColoneljesusI received mine and tried these right away....I have Zealencios (hereafter "Zs") on Zealios R5 62g installed on a b.mini.ex and these ("GMKs") on Ergo Clear lubed+65g installed on Lightsaver v3 ("LS3"). It's not a fair apples-to-apples (in terms of noise), because b.mini.ex is 100% acrylic, whereas LS3 is all metal with a SS plate. Regardless, here are few key points of comparison:
1. Travel Distance: GMKs seem to reduce less travel distance, but I think it can differ vastly depending on the switches/keycaps/and perhaps the LEDs used. B.mini.ex has 3mm LED with GMK keycaps and it could be the 3mm+GMK stems combination penalizing the travel distance, but GMKs with no LED and SP's DSA on LS3 types much deeper. 2. Noise Reduction: Zs seem to be slightly superior on this, but neither I have a sound meter to reference nor is this a fair apples-to-apples as I've said above (acrylic seems to dampen the bottom-out sound better). 3. Installation: I actually had a tough time installing Zs as they didn't come with an installation tool as these have. Although clip-on mechanisms are similar, I had to use a needle-nose plier to put Zs on, and in order to do that the switches need be pre-solder. I am sure you can still install the Zs post-solder, but I found that very very difficult to do. As @Gagl said, I also broke two of GMKs because the tiny bar on the side that encloses a square hole snapped, but didn't have any of that on Zs. 4. Removal: I think this is very important. I've found Zs ALMOST impossible to remove with the switches soldered. GMKs, using the small screw driver, was much easier to remove.
Hope this helped...
PS: I got the plate version of the GMK
1. Travel Distance: GMKs seem to reduce less travel distance, but I think it can differ vastly depending on the switches/keycaps/and perhaps the LEDs used. B.mini.ex has 3mm LED with GMK keycaps and it could be the 3mm+GMK stems combination penalizing the travel distance, but GMKs with no LED and SP's DSA on LS3 types much deeper. 2. Noise Reduction: Zs seem to be slightly superior on this, but neither I have a sound meter to reference nor is this a fair apples-to-apples as I've said above (acrylic seems to dampen the bottom-out sound better). 3. Installation: I actually had a tough time installing Zs as they didn't come with an installation tool as these have. Although clip-on mechanisms are similar, I had to use a needle-nose plier to put Zs on, and in order to do that the switches need be pre-solder. I am sure you can still install the Zs post-solder, but I found that very very difficult to do. As @Gagl said, I also broke two of GMKs because the tiny bar on the side that encloses a square hole snapped, but didn't have any of that on Zs. 4. Removal: I think this is very important. I've found Zs ALMOST impossible to remove with the switches soldered. GMKs, using the small screw driver, was much easier to remove.
Hope this helped...
PS: I got the plate version of the GMK
Coloneljesus
57
Sep 18, 2017
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baechooboiThanks very much! I have also made the experience that GMK caps will touch 3mm LEDs, which will drastically alter the bottom-out feel.
Gagl
69
Sep 18, 2017
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ColoneljesusAnyone know what kind of LEDs are on the WASD code? That's the other board I was considering using these on. When Nautilus comes (yay) I'll have to decide where to put them... This could be a factor
Coloneljesus
57
Sep 18, 2017
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GaglThe CODE has 3mm LEDs mounted north (of the switch center). This positioning works infinitely better than south-mounted LEDs, IMO. I have GMK Honeywell on a CODE TKL.
Gagl
69
Sep 19, 2017
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ColoneljesusAh right, thanks for the clarification. Still not sure if I want to put the new set on the code (also tkl) or the mf, but nice to have the option.
LevelSteam
Sep 20, 2017
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ColoneljesusSpeaking of GMK Honeywell, something I've noticed with these clips is that the caps of my bottom row sometimes catch with them depending on how hard I hit the key and where. A hard press to the bottom lip of say ctrl or alt will cause the cap to catch for a second, but the same press to the top edge of the cap doesn't. I think this is caused by a physical imperfection of my caps though, since the bottom wall on the underside of some was malformed and I had to cut them out. I made a thread about it over here: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=89508.0
I dont have any other GMK kits to test this with though so it could also be an issue with the overall depth of the cap vs the added "girth" of the clip.
I dont have any other GMK kits to test this with though so it could also be an issue with the overall depth of the cap vs the added "girth" of the clip.
Coloneljesus
57
Sep 22, 2017
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LevelSteamI have two keyboards here. One with LEDs to the north (WASD) and one with smaller LEDs to the south (KBD75). I can reproduce the catching issues you describe only on the WASD. No problems on the KBD75 at all.
I also have a few caps with malformed walls but they only were an issue on the top row.
I also have a few caps with malformed walls but they only were an issue on the top row.
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Interestingly, I was initially upset because doing a single key comparison between a switch with the clip and one with an O-ring, the clip sounded louder, but I realized it was because I was bottoming out, and the ring (being a bit cushier and thicker) was doing a better job on the downstroke. Once I got them all on and started typing more naturally (not bottoming out, or at least not as hard), you can totally hear a difference - nice and quieter, and a slight but noticeable increase in travel (feels more mechy :) ). Since I have the alphas clipped, the numbers and some of the modifiers ringed, and some (like the bigger mods/space bar) with no dampening, the whole thing has an interesting sound to it. Fun times. Anyway hope everyone gets their boxes soon too.