Support for Alternative Layouts
This is a summary of how alternative layouts have been supported by kits such as Colevrak and Homing. It is not a discussion of alt layout performance and development, but if that interests you I highly recommend starting with Pascal Getreuer’s A guide to alt keyboard layouts (why, how, which one?). It’s a concise and comprehensive overview with links to some great sites that go deeper. He also has a separate Links about keyboards page. The Keyboard layouts doc he recommends explains layout goals and metrics in detail, summarizing the alt layouts discussed here as well as more than one hundred others. Sculpted-profile The majority of custom keycap sets are sculpted-profile (Cherry, SA, MT3, KAT, etc. - more on profiles generally here) so let’s start there. Because each row has a unique keycap shape, alt layouts require a unique keycap for each legend that moves off its QWERTY row. At first there were two The Dvorak layout was patented in 1936 by August Dvorak & William L....
Apr 23, 2024
If anyone did receive one with QC issues, I would seek getting it replaced. I'm very surprised by the build quality here.
Not sure if they are Cherry brand or not, but the long keys use Cherry-style stabilizers rather than those little metal bars that break.
This means a couple of the keys have a bit of a knock to them, but I'm going to get some O rings to put on space, backspace, enter, and some of those keys that get mashed a bit harder. The rest of the keys sound very crisp due to the weight and solidness of the chassis. I'm in heaven.
Thanks to the other posts in this discussion, I took it apart and determined I also had some shorting out between long soldering legs and the chassis.
THIS IS EASILY FIXED - NO WARRANTY SEALS NEED TO BE BROKEN - THERE IS NO REASON NOT TO DO THE FOLLOWING IF YOU HAVE ANY LEVEL OF CONFIDENCE!
1) Use the plastic cover that came on top of the board and flip the keyboard over on it - this gives it a little extra stability rather than having the weight of this monster sit right on your keys.
2) Take out all 11 screws. I used a small allen wrench. Get the screws out of their barrels and put them aside (you will be flipping the back over and they will go everywhere if you don't).
3) CAREFULLY lift the bottom of the chassis just a little bit, and get your hand in there to disconnect the USB cord from the harness on the board. BE GENTLE, DAMN YOU!
3) See my pictures. In my case, the long soldering tails seemed to be from the CAPSLOCK, SCROLL LOCK, and NUM LOCK LEDs. You can see where they had started to scratch into the powder coat of the chassis. I used a small pair of dikes/snips to trim the tails down (be careful, don't lose those metal bits).
4) Now, we need to insulate/separate the PCB from the chassis. I have to say, it is FREAKING BONKERS that there is no plastic barrier of some sort. I used electrical tape strips (See pic). You want to use something that has a low chance of being worn through (More on that in a minute).
5) Reassemble - Don't forget to reconnect the USB. You should be good now!
This Keyboard is great. Fantastic. But this is a crippling flaw without some sort of fix.
MASSDROP and IKBC - I propose you guys work on sending out your customers *SOMETHING* to drop in between the PCB and chassis. You currently have a small square of plastic over the middle of the board - but more is needed. Future revisions of this board need at least 2-3mm of additional clearance AND an insulating layer, but for us early adopters you should take the initiative and send us out something. There is no reason to make us ship these boards back to you, it would be cheaper (and better service) to send something out.
Assuming there aren't any other points of contact on my board, I should be good - probably for years. BUT if something is very lightly contacting the electrical tape I may find myself doing some maintenance in the future.
I hope this helps everyone, I think the board is worth it - Truly.
For example: green backlight with yellow reacting keys. Is this possible?
Solder legs are fairly soft. If you have a pair of dikes that would be best, but even fingernail clippers will likely do the job. You don't want to snip it flush with the board, rather you want to snip the leg that extends past the actual solder. If you look at your board, there will be plenty of examples of proper-length legs. Make sure you don't pry or pull when you snip, just pinch them off.
I must say I'm proud of my tape job, lol. If you look at the picture (I added it to this reply again) you can see the tape strips going horizontally. I gave them just a tiny bit over overlap to make sure there weren't any gaps. I used a sharp knife to gently cut around the part that the wire is in. When you reassemble, make sure the wire bend goes in there as opposed to getting smooshed between the PCB and the case!
Also, I went and edited my post with labels for the pics. I hope they line up properly.
Works perfectly now.
:)
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/ikbc-87-rgb-mechanical-keyboard/talk/1594746
What kind of screw driver do you use to open it up?
I used a small hexwrench to open it.