There Are Pandas, and Then There Are Pandas.
And this isn't either of them! The Pandas we're talking about here, are watches, not bears. And what got me thinking about them (again) was a link posted this morning by @cm.rook who pointed a few of us to the very attractive (and not terribly priced) Yema "Rallygraph" Panda which, in it's most traditional arrangement, looks like the one on the left, but can also be had in the version on the right: The model on the left is a true Panda, while the model on the right is called a reverse Panda. The reason for that distinction is clear--Panda bears, only come in the first arrangement. Now at this point, everyone should be thinking about the most well-know Panda, The Rolex Panda, which is actually a Daytona, and among Rolex Daytonas, the most famous of which is the Paul Newman Daytona, which was famous first, because it was Paul's, and second because it sold at auction for $17.8 million (US Dollars). The story of that auction is well-known so I'll only...
Nov 8, 2019
I also find myself only interested in mechanical watches (preferably automatic, hand wind is acceptable). Finally, I find myself at a stage in my life where I really don't want to spend over $500 on a watch... Which begs the question: Do I or do I not find myself at a stage in my life where I could own a watch of this style? And if so, what would you recommend? The one above from Junghans retails for a little over a grand. I have seen some from Junkers that are a little more affordable, such as this guy (more eye candy):
Thank you very much for any input!
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bauhaus
$500 is a tricky price point for mechanicals. There are some, yes; the Junkers you have there is showing at $550 on Amazon, so there's an upper bound for you. And it's got a 2824, which is a solid workhorse. Going any less than this...I'd want to stay with Hamilton or Seiko. Hamilton uses ETA movements; they're both in the Swatch group. Seiko is a complete manufacture; you'd be getting a 4R35 at this point, which is...ok, but barely. At least I trust Seiko.
If you like the look of a watch, the next important part is the movement. The ETA 2824 and Sellita SW-200 are essentially interchangeable; Sellita started by making 2824's under contract. The ETA 2804 is the manual-wound version. These are all available in different grades...standard, elabore, top, and chronometer (best). There are some parts upgrades, but you're also getting a movement that's been regulated to be more accurate. A certified chronometer has received an actual COSC certificate. A top grade 2824 is a very nice watch...but probably mostly out of your budget.
You may also see the Powermatic 80. This is ETA's next-gen version of the 2824. Also has multiple grades. The 80 means an 80 hour power reserve.
Next up would be the Miyota 8200 series and 9000 series. I'm not a big fan of the 8200's; accuracy isn't very good. The 9000 series...the 9015 is the most common configuration...is much better. I consider it a touch below a 2824, but it's also considerably cheaper.
Last up would be the Seiko movements. The lower end is the 4R35 when in an actual watch, and sold to others as the NH35. OK movement, but tends to be thick, and not all that accurate by its specs. The 6R15 is an upgrade, but not available in anything around $500. The original Seiko Cocktail Time was a *steal* because it had a 6R inside, and it was less than $400. The new ones have 4R's, and people have screamed about that since last Baselworld (which, BTW, is going on now).
So...there's some nice watches near $500 with sound movements in good cases. I personally start with Archimede here; Hamilton is good, Victorinox can be worth a look. Junkers is a name I've heard enough to say they should be good. How many have a nice Bauhaus? Those do tend to run a bit more. Stowa and Junghans...then Nomos.
I'd also encourage you to try WatchUSeek's forums. There will be *many* folks who know more brands (Zeppelin, perhaps) than I do.
https://www.montredo.com/en/watch-magazine/9-myths-junghans-max-bill/
I have to commend your approach as a new collector - do your research and make sure you will be happy with your piece for years to come. When I went from what I would consider an enthusiast to a collector I went a little crazy acquiring watches, and it has resulted in me selling off many of them simply because they do not get worn, or I bought them on impulse because I got a good deal.
IMO, saving a little more to get that Junghans would be a wise move if that is really the one that speaks to you.
Edit: Based on Craig's post below, a correction to my posting as my collection of watches has a mix of mineral and sapphire crystals. Both type have been scratch free and trouble free for me, but Craig's comment below is again spot on. I just received my Vortic Chicago last week; I'll have to see how the gorilla glass crystal on it survives my klutziness.
There are 3 primary materials: acrylic/plexiglass, mineral crystal, and sapphire.
Acrylic is the softest, but it does polish out. It's also visually softer.
Mineral crystal is hardened glass. Still cheap to make. Harder, but still scratches fairly readily, and does not polish out. You'll hear some saying this is the worst choice for that reason. That said, my beater watch is an Eco Drive with a mineral crystal. It's my yardwork/housework watch. Had it quite a while now, and no problems. So, 'scratches readily' is somewhat relative. (I also had another mineral crystal shatter on a mild bump. Acrylic won't shatter.)
Sapphire is synthetic corundum...aluminum oxide. It is basically the same as natural sapphire, which means it is extremely hard, ergo scratch resistant. The one downside is, it reflects much more, so an anti-reflective coating is needed. One aspect with sapphire: shape affects cost. Flat disk e.g. Nomos Tangente...pretty cheap. Complex domed or box shapes cost quite a bit more.
Acrylic may be being cheap, for sure; it may also be aiming for a vintage overall feel.