There Are Pandas, and Then There Are Pandas.
And this isn't either of them! The Pandas we're talking about here, are watches, not bears. And what got me thinking about them (again) was a link posted this morning by @cm.rook who pointed a few of us to the very attractive (and not terribly priced) Yema "Rallygraph" Panda which, in it's most traditional arrangement, looks like the one on the left, but can also be had in the version on the right: The model on the left is a true Panda, while the model on the right is called a reverse Panda. The reason for that distinction is clear--Panda bears, only come in the first arrangement. Now at this point, everyone should be thinking about the most well-know Panda, The Rolex Panda, which is actually a Daytona, and among Rolex Daytonas, the most famous of which is the Paul Newman Daytona, which was famous first, because it was Paul's, and second because it sold at auction for $17.8 million (US Dollars). The story of that auction is well-known so I'll only...
Nov 8, 2019
So what it means is that basically, a photo taken with a 50mm lens on a full frame camera looks like it, but the same 50mm lens on an APS-C will look like it was taken with an 80mm lens. The 50mm lens is an awesome general use lens to have on a full frame, and 80mm is a good medium length for portraits, so that could be a good choice depending on what kind of photos you take.
Other than that, the same tips and gear for other cameras is just as applicable. If you tell us what kind of photos you want to take, what kind of situations you'll be taking photos in, we can offer more specific recommendations.
I believe he also meant that keep in mind when buying lenses, if you are ever going to buy a full frame camera. A full frame lens costs significantly more, but will benefit you if you do ever decide to upgrade. Using a cropped lens on a full frame sensor often causes a heavy vignetting effect on the sides.
Also, are you interested in portraits? Events? Sports? Landscapes? This, again, is for strategizing what lenses can serve you at both cropped and full frame.
For events, it's very helpful to have a flash as indoor light is very variable to non-existent, plus a diffused flash can be more flattering to people. It's also useful for outdoor events since you will have backlight situations and hard light, and you can create more flattering and amazing photographs that way. You can get other brands but the Canon Speedlite has this thing called ETTL that is an automatic mode, plus it can be remotely triggered by line-of-sight. The 400 series is fine, don't worry about the more powerful flashes—they pack more power but it's rare you'll actually need it, plus they're heavier and bigger. You want to learn what's called "flash metering".
Flash and strobe is a very deep subject, but for events you'll want some way to diffuse the light. You can buy diffusers, softboxes, beauty dishes, etc. but you can also build one out of a cereal box and paper (I did). Save money where you can. For example, a reflector is very useful for studio/portrait photos, it acts like another flash. You can make one out of cardboard and aluminium foil. Protip: You don't even need a flash to use one. Set up a person by a window on a cloudy day then reflect the light to their other side.
For nature you're probably already set if you have a wide enough zoom lens (not sure how landscapey you want to get). If you do macro (close-ups of stuff like flowers) then it may require other lenses, and you may want a tripod. If you intend to be in a photo, then you'll definitely want a tripod. If you do not foresee this than save your money and learn camera anti-shake technique.
If you do want a tripod, note that pro tripods are just the legs. The head (the thing that moves your camera) is separate. Whatever head you get, if it has a quick release, prioritize Arca-Swiss compatibility. You'll find more gear is compatible with that and it's nice to not have to take the plate off.
You might have heard about filters. I say skip them for now. UV filters are debatable. Circular polarizers can be useful to shoot through water, but do you need to? Also for people who wear glasses, but there is a way to mitigate glare. Just tell them to face a different way until it goes away or is minimized. For nature photos you may want ND (neutral density) filters but you'll know you need them when you actually need them. They basically block light if it's too bright out, or if you want a long exposure (e.g., silky smooth waterfalls).
As for a way to transport the camera to the event, you can use whatever bag you have now. When you need to bring multiple lenses and other stuff, then you'll want to protect them. Could be as simple as neoprene sleeves and cardboard in a bag, or a camera bag with dividers. You'll cross that bridge when you get there.
Don't stress too much about upgrading to a full frame. I started with an APS-C too, it's a great camera, and technique and style is far more important then gear. Takes time to learn, and you'll never really outgrow it anyway.