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Trending Posts in Mechanical Keyboards
DaveKaretnyk
Mode Tempo with Red Samurai
Mode Tempo (60%) with GMK Red Samurai & Mode Lotus keycaps
Apr 25, 2024
dvorcol
Support for Alternative Layouts
This is a summary of how alternative layouts have been supported by kits such as Colevrak and Homing. It is not a discussion of alt layout performance and development, but if that interests you I highly recommend starting with Pascal Getreuer’s A guide to alt keyboard layouts (why, how, which one?). It’s a concise and comprehensive overview with links to some great sites that go deeper. He also has a separate Links about keyboards page. The Keyboard layouts doc he recommends explains layout goals and metrics in detail, summarizing the alt layouts discussed here as well as more than one hundred others. Sculpted-profile The majority of custom keycap sets are sculpted-profile (Cherry, SA, MT3, KAT, etc. - more on profiles generally here) so let’s start there. Because each row has a unique keycap shape, alt layouts require a unique keycap for each legend that moves off its QWERTY row. At first there were two The Dvorak layout was patented in 1936 by August Dvorak & William L....
Apr 23, 2024
CousinTimmy
Promo codes for stack Macropad v2
is there any promo codes right now that work with the STACK OVERFLOW THE KEY V2 MACROPAD? link:https://drop.com/buy/stack-overflow-the-key-v2-macropad?searchId=ead314359856d5486d35f4713cff32e9
Apr 23, 2024
Robbedoes
*Help* Screw in stabilizers not fitting in Dropshift V2 keyboard
I'm trying to build a mechanical keyboard with screw in stabilizers, I've build some mechanical keyboards with click-in stabilizers, never with screw in. Somehow one of the pins of the metal top-part collides with the screw in stabilizer of the numpad "enter key". I already tried grinding of a bit of the pin that collides with the stabilizer, but unfortunately I can't make it fit/close properly. You can see that the pin of the toppart leaves a mark on the bottompart of the stabilizer, see picture 2. What am I missing? Using Durock V2 in a Dropshift fullsize V2. See pictures below, thanks in advance!
Apr 23, 2024
Fukyachickennuggets
Polymer clay
Don't drop crazy cash on custom wood builds! Instead go buy polymer clay and paint. Then you can spend a ridiculous amount of time trying to make it look like you can afford to drop crazy cash on...
Apr 22, 2024
GrEEdYY
HELP PLEASE!
HELP PLEASE! I put noise insulation in the keyboard and after that it stopped working, the only sign of life is 5 blinks of orange light.can do something about it? model:DROP ALTv1
Apr 22, 2024
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So... I like my keyboards with a curve. This would also be my FIRST custom keyset. Prior to this, I was planning to wire a diode matrix to the back of an Apple //c Keyboard (Alps Amber) and run that to a Teensy. It's a flat keyboard. I might still actually use it. Maybe I should give it a battery and bluetooth and make it wireless. Just needs a touchpad or some such device. Leave these rockin' keycaps for my Kerbal Space Program console, plus an external number pad. (SO sick of dinky keyboards for regular use)! Controller won't go anywhere either, as it'll be built right into the desk... Gauges, readouts, 3 axis FDAI, toggles, joysticks, and all! :P
Just HOW difficult is it to get the curve/stepped feel from this row 3 keycap. I've considered two ideas. One, I use soldered pin headers as standoffs to mount pc board strips (one long horizontal strip per row) raised and angled off a main backing PCB to create my curve. The other idea is to try to find a curved metal keyplate. That or I could just buy a mechanical keyboard that has the right shape, if I can find one that fits. What would be best? Like I said, I've only ever resused entire keyboards from vintage computers, or made minor cosmetic mods to OEM keyboards.
The last keyboard I genuinely liked the shape of was the Apple A1048 with the clear plastic shell removed. This left a very thin, almost floating keyboard. Only needed to add a pair of rubber pads to it. It had a mild curve, mild angle, no steps, very mild spherical key tops, but it was not the greatest in terms of durability. I've been through two, and I actually have a second keyboard plugged in right now, cause my - [ ' and SPACE keys are dead. Still fairly usable for regular typing... as long as you don't need to hyphenate or quote or separateyourwordslikemostnormalpeopledo... Or make this face... >_> or this one <_<
I am seriously considering at least one base kit, a number pad, and the wingman set. Two full core sets is simply too much for me to handle, sadly... I'm considering a stand alone number pad. I HATE not having a number pad. Not having one is torture for anyone who does numbery things! :P
Yeah... I priced two core kits, but dang, that adds up.
I can't really answer your question about achieving a sculpted profile from a uniform Row 3 key set. From the little bit of discussion I've seen on the topic, most people appear to lean toward a curved switch plate -- there are vintage boards out there already that do this, most of them are buckling spring. If you went that route you would either need to hand wire your matrix or you'd have to get fancy with the PCB.
Agreed on the number pad. I can't function without one. Don't force yourself to overspend. We can always run this again later if it's successful, and you can pick-up anything you may have missed the first time around. ;)
I've cheaped out on keyboards for so long, I doubt I could overspend if I tried! (I could) :P
Since these are double shot... And an extra F and J come with the base kit... What if I put a key cap on the mill and just sorta... cut in, just a hair. Polish up the cut with a little polishing compound... That could work, right? As long as I don't go deep enough to run into the underlying double shot plastic, that'd probably get me a set of scoop keys, right?
Also... Has anyone noticed the image at the top of the page (render?) and the Kit images show a different typeface for the alpha keys? Should i assume the kit images are the correct ones, or the image at the top of the page?
Also... Google U scary... Stop suddenly playing Air Force ads to me on YouTube...
The fonts aren't perfect in either case. They are both VERY close but I'd say as far as glyph shape, my 2D Illustrator renders are as close as possible to the real deal. The actual legends will be a little bit wider in the horizontal plane and some of the special characters will be different. If you need a reference, look at the legends from any recent SA group buy. Nuclear Data Green and 1976 are perfect examples because they are both uniform Row 3. Note: look at actual photographs of the keys, not pre-release renders.