What is SpaceFN and why you should give it a try
The SpaceFN concept - setting up your space key as a layer switch when held - is probably one of the most useful tweaks in the keyboard hobby. Let me explain how it works. My SpaceFN article on kbd.news made some rounds recently - quite surprisingly given the age of this concept. This piece you're reading is a condensed version of the full post. If you're left with unanswered questions, you'll most likely find the info you're looking for in the original write-up. On my imaginary top list of the most useful keyboard features, tweaks and hacks, SpaceFN would deserve a podium finish for sure. But what makes it so special? In short: SpaceFN is easy to implement, easy to learn, costs nothing, can be used with any keyboard, and can improve your productivity instantly. I will list its benefits below, but can state right at this point that the SpaceFN concept, setting up your space key as a layer switch when held, is clearly one of the most useful tweaks in the keyboard hobby....
Apr 30, 2024
So... I like my keyboards with a curve. This would also be my FIRST custom keyset. Prior to this, I was planning to wire a diode matrix to the back of an Apple //c Keyboard (Alps Amber) and run that to a Teensy. It's a flat keyboard. I might still actually use it. Maybe I should give it a battery and bluetooth and make it wireless. Just needs a touchpad or some such device. Leave these rockin' keycaps for my Kerbal Space Program console, plus an external number pad. (SO sick of dinky keyboards for regular use)! Controller won't go anywhere either, as it'll be built right into the desk... Gauges, readouts, 3 axis FDAI, toggles, joysticks, and all! :P
Just HOW difficult is it to get the curve/stepped feel from this row 3 keycap. I've considered two ideas. One, I use soldered pin headers as standoffs to mount pc board strips (one long horizontal strip per row) raised and angled off a main backing PCB to create my curve. The other idea is to try to find a curved metal keyplate. That or I could just buy a mechanical keyboard that has the right shape, if I can find one that fits. What would be best? Like I said, I've only ever resused entire keyboards from vintage computers, or made minor cosmetic mods to OEM keyboards.
The last keyboard I genuinely liked the shape of was the Apple A1048 with the clear plastic shell removed. This left a very thin, almost floating keyboard. Only needed to add a pair of rubber pads to it. It had a mild curve, mild angle, no steps, very mild spherical key tops, but it was not the greatest in terms of durability. I've been through two, and I actually have a second keyboard plugged in right now, cause my - [ ' and SPACE keys are dead. Still fairly usable for regular typing... as long as you don't need to hyphenate or quote or separateyourwordslikemostnormalpeopledo... Or make this face... >_> or this one <_<
I am seriously considering at least one base kit, a number pad, and the wingman set. Two full core sets is simply too much for me to handle, sadly... I'm considering a stand alone number pad. I HATE not having a number pad. Not having one is torture for anyone who does numbery things! :P
Yeah... I priced two core kits, but dang, that adds up.
I can't really answer your question about achieving a sculpted profile from a uniform Row 3 key set. From the little bit of discussion I've seen on the topic, most people appear to lean toward a curved switch plate -- there are vintage boards out there already that do this, most of them are buckling spring. If you went that route you would either need to hand wire your matrix or you'd have to get fancy with the PCB.
Agreed on the number pad. I can't function without one. Don't force yourself to overspend. We can always run this again later if it's successful, and you can pick-up anything you may have missed the first time around. ;)
I've cheaped out on keyboards for so long, I doubt I could overspend if I tried! (I could) :P
Since these are double shot... And an extra F and J come with the base kit... What if I put a key cap on the mill and just sorta... cut in, just a hair. Polish up the cut with a little polishing compound... That could work, right? As long as I don't go deep enough to run into the underlying double shot plastic, that'd probably get me a set of scoop keys, right?
Also... Has anyone noticed the image at the top of the page (render?) and the Kit images show a different typeface for the alpha keys? Should i assume the kit images are the correct ones, or the image at the top of the page?
Also... Google U scary... Stop suddenly playing Air Force ads to me on YouTube...
The fonts aren't perfect in either case. They are both VERY close but I'd say as far as glyph shape, my 2D Illustrator renders are as close as possible to the real deal. The actual legends will be a little bit wider in the horizontal plane and some of the special characters will be different. If you need a reference, look at the legends from any recent SA group buy. Nuclear Data Green and 1976 are perfect examples because they are both uniform Row 3. Note: look at actual photographs of the keys, not pre-release renders.