Support for Alternative Layouts
This is a summary of how alternative layouts have been supported by kits such as Colevrak and Homing. It is not a discussion of alt layout performance and development, but if that interests you I highly recommend starting with Pascal Getreuer’s A guide to alt keyboard layouts (why, how, which one?). It’s a concise and comprehensive overview with links to some great sites that go deeper. He also has a separate Links about keyboards page. The Keyboard layouts doc he recommends explains layout goals and metrics in detail, summarizing the alt layouts discussed here as well as more than one hundred others. Sculpted-profile The majority of custom keycap sets are sculpted-profile (Cherry, SA, MT3, KAT, etc. - more on profiles generally here) so let’s start there. Because each row has a unique keycap shape, alt layouts require a unique keycap for each legend that moves off its QWERTY row. At first there were two The Dvorak layout was patented in 1936 by August Dvorak & William L....
Apr 23, 2024
So, before I submit, I have a modified 75% +1 layout that appears to allow full sized modifier and shift keys... AKA, the Base key cap kit should populate this modified 75% and not require ANY odd sizes. It supports symmetrically placed 1.25u modifier keys, three on each side of the space bar, which is 6.25u. The left shift is 2.25u and the right shift is 2.75u. It has inverted T arrows next to the right shift and modifiers, and has F1-12, as well as Del, Home, End, Page Up, Page Down, and 6 more 1u keys that can be made into whatever you like, three up in the top row, and 3 by the arrow keys.
Also, is the stem on the caps lock key centered with no stabilizer? I intend to use the stepped caps lock key. The plate was generated based on the stock Keycool 84 layout, with my modifications performed to it. I don't wanna order a plate and find the caps lock key is wrong.
Can I get a quick confirmation that this keyboard is in line with the key sizes of the base kit?
That ought to work, correct?
And yeah, I'll be using other keys in those 1u locations, since I do have a yellow Esc, a red Eject, a yellow Enter (so i have both Return and Enter, even though they both say enter) and the D☆Z that can go in, even before I even consider the Wingman pack. Heck... The Arrows pack is looking more and more attractive, just to get those Up and Down keys for volume (not to mention, yellow keys will make the arrows stand out nicely). I rarely use media keys, but I might if I had them. I DO a lot of screenshots though, so Print Screen would be useful to me, and Mac OS can bind that to the Print Screen key. This is looking like the way to go! Of course, seeing it is probably best! :D
I submitted a plate order at the link below. They have a whole 13 hours left on their countdown!
http://leandren.bigcartel.com/prototyper-round-1
Some of the Keycool layouts are weird, like the ones with the oversized arrow keys. This is better.
I'm new to mechanical keyboards, but am a life long DIYer. Been taking stuff apart and making stuff for the passed three decades. Had a soldering gun at the age of 5 (with parent's help). This is actually my first time ordering anything laser/water jet cut before. I've made far simpler aluminum panels before, by hand. The kind of thing you mount test equipment into... Little meters and thumbwheel switches and such, but I do that with a simple drill, hand nibbler tool, and a file.
Yeah... I want my thumb to not be sore and useless for the next year and a half after having nibbled an entire keyboard plate! I'd like to USE my keyboard when i finish it! I'll pay the cash to order the plate! XD
A custom layout ain't all that bad, and the wiring is not terribly complex. One of the more popular methods of wiring your switches is to use the leads of the diodes As your rows. Solder one end to one pin of the switch, then the other end, you bend to form a long chain of wire, made up by the previous diodes. This long chain of wires becomes one row. You then just jump a wire from top to bottom, in a line, to your other switch pin. Hook that to either a Teensy and program it, or steal the guts from a keyboard and match it's matrix, and you're good to go. It's a lot of little fiddly work, but if you take your time, and pay attention to what you're doing, it's not terribly complicated, just repetitive.
I picked up a wirewrapping tool from my local Radio Shack years ago. I use that thing for everything, and I'll probably use it for the columns of my matrix, if it fits around the pins.
Oh, and also, Matty101. This type of thing almost alway has a mad rush at the end. It's just like the last second bidding on an ebay auction. People make their decision closer to when the time to decide is about to run out... That being said, I'd be MORE than happy if the deadline were extended out a few more days so it landed after Friday next week, so it'd catch that next wave of paychecks to burn! :D
Considering the Goose pack and the blanks came into the party so late in the game, I'd be further cool with an extension to let people soak those up. I'm all for extension. With a delivery expected to be about 4 months out... I'd say, what's a week or even a few days, to maximize our buying power.
Hint, hint, Data... ;)