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HIRO Kaioh Nordic Hunter Fixed Blade Knife
01 / 06
HIRO Kaioh Nordic Hunter Fixed Blade Knife
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Product Description
Made in Japan’s cutlery capital, Seki City, the HIRO Kaioh Nordic Hunter is equal parts craftsmanship and utility. With a thick, 4.25-inch blade made from VG-10 stainless steel—a high-carbon-content steel known for its edge retention—this fixed blade excels in slicing and piercing tasks Read More
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keyboard_arrow_downGixxho
27
Jun 29, 2017
Got mine today and wow, what a disappointment! The handle has a half a millimeter gap between the tank, looks like its not properly glued. The grinding of the blade is worst than a $20 buck knife, to be honest I do a better grind myself. Wish there is way I can get a refund for this catastrophe. Take a look at the right hand side of the blade right before the handle. It is so unevenly grind. Buyer's beware.
CampCatskill
265
Sep 9, 2017
I am surprised that Massdrop is still teaming up with this manufacturer after so many people have complained about quality issues. I picked up a Casstrom No.10 Swedish Forest Knife for $125 and am super happy with it. Blade is Bohler K720 (O2 Tool Steel) scandi ground, leather sheath, 3.8" blade, made in Sweden. Solid knife that looks good and fit & finish is top notch. They also make the same model in Sandvik 14C28N stainless steel for the same price if thats your preference.
It's unfortunate because this seems like a great knife for a good price when you look at the specs but it seems like a roll of the dice whether or not you get a good one or not.
It's unfortunate because this seems like a great knife for a good price when you look at the specs but it seems like a roll of the dice whether or not you get a good one or not.
Gixxho
27
Sep 9, 2017
CampCatskillYeah, I tend to agree.... But I gotta give it to massdrop for being so prompt in resolving the issue. I would of been PISSED to the nth degree if I had to keep pay for that knife.
K-ozDragon
72
Jul 14, 2016
So I work at a knife shop and do lots of customizing on knives. The fit and finish are off on this knife. The rivets had large burs in them I had to remove, and also the blade grind was atrocious! So I decided to try and fix the grind. I put it into my wicked edge at 18.5 degrees angles each side (37 inclusive) and began with 100 grit stones. Over an hour later and the grind line still isn't flat. This steel has been ultra hardened. If the maker knows what they're doing, this can be good, but too hard and the knife will chip or break very easily. I suppose time will tell. Going to continue working on it tomorrow as my arms are now officially dead. Hoping this doesn't wear out my stones.
PACoug
187
Mar 5, 2017
K-ozDragonVG-10 is like that. I have several layered Shun kitchen knives with a VG-10 core. They take forever to sharpen and I can't even imagine trying to reprofile one as you are doing. Just keep going at it. Eventually you will get there but you must be patient.
VG-10's reputation as a great kitchen knife steel is not necessarily a recommendation for using it as a field knife steel. Its awesome edge retention comes from its hardness. In the kitchen, no problem. In the field there are just too many things that WILL chip your blade. If you are going to use this for skinning ONLY then okay maybe. But any serious bone impacts can damage it.
I recommend something a bit more resilient even if you'll have to sharpen it way more often. It will be a more durable performer.
VG-10's reputation as a great kitchen knife steel is not necessarily a recommendation for using it as a field knife steel. Its awesome edge retention comes from its hardness. In the kitchen, no problem. In the field there are just too many things that WILL chip your blade. If you are going to use this for skinning ONLY then okay maybe. But any serious bone impacts can damage it.
I recommend something a bit more resilient even if you'll have to sharpen it way more often. It will be a more durable performer.
VTDiesel
25
Jul 20, 2019
Anybody have any recent experience and review of this? Everything I find about it here is pretty negative, unfortunate because it looks like a real nice blade.
VTDiesel
25
Jul 23, 2019
That's nice but I'm not a fan of that blade style. I really wish someone had someone recent feedback. This knife is beautiful.
Rudolph
279
Jul 23, 2019
VTDieselYeah the link I gave is an American made (not that that always means quality Japanese vg10 is usually pretty good) but it also is in the $99 from $250 red flag discount arena difference here is Ontario usually has good reviews (trailing point can be an acquired taste) Hiro if it is who I think it is are more known for kitchen knives . I really do believe this is a close out deal here too , and not the good kind ,there isn't that much unique about this model if you really like it go to Blade hq, or Knife Center, or Knives Ship Free and use their search tools you might be surprised . I wish I could at least find a off site review of this one but no luck so far . At the end of the day your taste your money if it wont break ya and you really like it go for it I doubt you will see it back here and I would be lying if I said I never bought a knife with less than grand reviews and fit and finish can be overcome ,the blade grind can be another issue but again can be corrected (this can add quite a few dollars if you go to a pro) sorry though I know the feeling tough trigger for ya to pull here. Good luck either way!
vvs75
10
Jun 14, 2016
Got my Hiro and as I suspected the mass production have to be at the expanse of quality and attention to details. Brass rivets on my knife drilled of center, the handle have gaps closer to the blade and the worst parts one half of the handle is almost twice thinner then the other half. What he was thinking when he worked on finish is beyond me. Very disappointed.
UnixRonin
94
Mar 26, 2017
Received my knife today. Fit and finish are excellent, and the knife fits my hand well and feels good in the hand. The jimping is sharply cut and provides a good grip. The tubular rivets securing the scales are evenly flared and cut to just below the surface of the wood. The wood itself has beautiful grain and a perfect satin finish — not too slick, not too rough. To my taste, the edge is a little thick; I prefer a shallower grind. I may consider re-cutting the edge.
The sheath is a little of a disappointment by comparison, not up to the standard of the knife. It's nicely enough constructed, well stitched, and acceptably well finished for a mass-produced piece, but is not molded to fit the knife properly. Mine wouldn't even go in out-of-the-box.
You can fix this, though. Start by running warm — NOT hot — water over and into the sheath for several minutes. Get the leather thoroughly wet, but not soaked, then shake/wipe it surface-dry and wrap it up in a plastic bag. Set it aside for about 30 minutes to let the leather fibers absorb the moisture. After about 30 minutes, take your knife, wrap it snugly in Saran wrap to keep it dry, and work it into the sheath until the hilt bottoms against the stop about 2" inside the sheath. (If you're not sure where the stop is, stick your pinky finger in there along the stitched edge and feel for it.) You should be able to JUST see the edge of the second tubular rivet. Leave the knife in place for 15-20 minutes, optionally taking some smoothly curved object such as the handle of a table knife and gently working the leather up against the hilt where it meets the blade. (It should be slightly stretchable with moderate force.) Take your knife out, unwrap and dry it, and set the sheath aside to dry. Work the knife in and out a few times while it dries.
You might need to repeat this process more than once until the knife seats all the way in and is snugly retained, but can still be pulled out without needing both hands. After the first time you should only need to soak the upper portion of the sheath, as far down as the hilt actually goes into it. When you're done, give it a light coat of something like neatsfoot oil, mink oil or Lexol leather conditioner. (Do not use mineral oil unless you want to permanently darken the leather, and don't use a drying oil like linseed or flaxseed oil.) Fiebing's is a good brand for neatsfoot oil.
The sheath is a little of a disappointment by comparison, not up to the standard of the knife. It's nicely enough constructed, well stitched, and acceptably well finished for a mass-produced piece, but is not molded to fit the knife properly. Mine wouldn't even go in out-of-the-box.
You can fix this, though. Start by running warm — NOT hot — water over and into the sheath for several minutes. Get the leather thoroughly wet, but not soaked, then shake/wipe it surface-dry and wrap it up in a plastic bag. Set it aside for about 30 minutes to let the leather fibers absorb the moisture. After about 30 minutes, take your knife, wrap it snugly in Saran wrap to keep it dry, and work it into the sheath until the hilt bottoms against the stop about 2" inside the sheath. (If you're not sure where the stop is, stick your pinky finger in there along the stitched edge and feel for it.) You should be able to JUST see the edge of the second tubular rivet. Leave the knife in place for 15-20 minutes, optionally taking some smoothly curved object such as the handle of a table knife and gently working the leather up against the hilt where it meets the blade. (It should be slightly stretchable with moderate force.) Take your knife out, unwrap and dry it, and set the sheath aside to dry. Work the knife in and out a few times while it dries.
You might need to repeat this process more than once until the knife seats all the way in and is snugly retained, but can still be pulled out without needing both hands. After the first time you should only need to soak the upper portion of the sheath, as far down as the hilt actually goes into it. When you're done, give it a light coat of something like neatsfoot oil, mink oil or Lexol leather conditioner. (Do not use mineral oil unless you want to permanently darken the leather, and don't use a drying oil like linseed or flaxseed oil.) Fiebing's is a good brand for neatsfoot oil.
ScottieG
253
Jun 5, 2017
UnixRoninFor some leather handgun holsters, I put the unloaded handgun in a thin dress sock, put that fully seated in the holster and wait a couple days. It have not had to wet the leather yet. Of course, this would be tougher to try with a knife.
schweizer
17
Aug 10, 2019
Received mine today. DO NOT BUY EVER! I wish I would have read the discussions before purchasing. The quality is terrible. Flaws are multiple. When I noticed my first flaw I thought I could suck it up and be happy, as I rotated the knife around I wondered if a school for the blind had manufactured and assembled these.
YogaBear
402
Mar 5, 2017
"Nordic hunter" - cannot ship to nordic countries. Is that knife irony? Sounds like irony to me.
sunneebear
41
Aug 27, 2019
I skipped all the drops for this knife because of QC issues in the discussions. A friend of mine picked one up from the last drop thinking they might straighten things out.
NO.
Unfinished tang.
Scales miss aligned with tang.
Epoxy in three areas.
One scale 1/8" thick, the other 1/4".
How does this crap leave the factory?
(Edited)
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