Support for Alternative Layouts
This is a summary of how alternative layouts have been supported by kits such as Colevrak and Homing. It is not a discussion of alt layout performance and development, but if that interests you I highly recommend starting with Pascal Getreuer’s A guide to alt keyboard layouts (why, how, which one?). It’s a concise and comprehensive overview with links to some great sites that go deeper. He also has a separate Links about keyboards page. The Keyboard layouts doc he recommends explains layout goals and metrics in detail, summarizing the alt layouts discussed here as well as more than one hundred others. Sculpted-profile The majority of custom keycap sets are sculpted-profile (Cherry, SA, MT3, KAT, etc. - more on profiles generally here) so let’s start there. Because each row has a unique keycap shape, alt layouts require a unique keycap for each legend that moves off its QWERTY row. At first there were two The Dvorak layout was patented in 1936 by August Dvorak & William L....
Apr 23, 2024
The bad: I was shorted 3 switches.(I paid someone in Europe to ship me keys) mass drop said they would ship me them. But I don't want to wait for several more weeks.
Getting keycaps on and off the matias switches is hard. I broke a switch apart trying to get a key cap off.
Also, pretty much no key cap sets for matias switches.
Overall, the quality isn't that good for the price. If I were to do it again I'd just buy something pre-made with cherry switches.
They i key stops working for some reason and I seem to get into weird function/command modes I can't get out of. It's annoying. I'll try updating the firmware or something.
Also, the usb port is too high and I have to push the port down with the cable to get it in. Or else the top of the opening in the rear of the case blocks it. So, I'll have to modify the cable or the opening to prevent the usb connector from bending.
Why not micro-usb? Mini usb is poorly engineered, which is why they made micro-usb.
No rubber feet on the base. No Carrying case.
The Good:
The aluminum housing thing is nice. Keycaps have a nice feel.
Overall: For the price and multi-month wait, get something pre-made.
I sure haven't seen any 60% keyboards that came even close for $100 plus keycaps - all tend to fall short in either flexibility, layout, keycaps, price, etc. I really appreciate the openness and the elegance of this project, the former of which is unparalleled, the latter matched only by the HHKB for three times the price. :)
The "weird command mode" stuff, you obviously haven't read the documentation...
As for the USB port, I agree that mini-USB is a bad decision. I'll look around on Mouser, it shouldn't be too hard to replace the connector with a Micro-B one with comparable footprint. (HaaTa, if this drop isn't manufactured yet, you could look into Micro-B ports that fit on the PCB. Mini has been de-certified.)
About the bending part, that means it "almost" fits. I guess it might be a good idea to plug the cable in during assembly, and solder the PCB on that way... that would make sure it sits so the USB port is accessible. This sort of thing is regular practice in soldering stuff together.
Overall, I guess it might not be what you're looking for, doesn't mean it's bad.
Another thing, I'm eying the availability of Type C connectors quite closely.
The tight keycaps...yep. I've broken some of them. Trying to get SP to loosen them for this drop.
If you are feeling brave you could try sanding off a very small amount of the stem, since it is rectangular. Just be very careful not to take off too much.
Personally, I agree with sigmoid.. I can't stand the Mini-B USB; it's never used for anything by anyone anymore. I would really hate toting it around, as I have no other use for it.
I know that this late in the game, it's going to ship with the Mini-B's, no matter what. (& if that's not the case, PLEASE put me on the list for the Micro!) But would it be (reasonably) possible to replace the Mini-B with a Micro? More importantly, would it be possible to somehow upgrade the port to the Type C connector when it's finally available? I have been following the Type C closely as well. & if it's possible to upgrade it down the road... well, that would be the greatest news I've heard all year, as it's the only aspect that's making me consider holding out until the next drop.
Again, I really appreciate you & all of your work. I honestly believe this is the greatest keyboard ever - it's everything I've wanted in a keyboard since I first discovered the HHKB. & sorry for the melodramatic rant. I just had to give my $.02 in hopes that it could possibly influence the next Infinity - or maybe even this one. Regardless, I'll probably jump on both!
As for Type C, that will require a new set of pads. There are 20 pins in a Type C connector. I don't have a timeline on this though. It depends on part availability.
So for Type C, I know we have no way of knowing when they'll be readily available. But even if Type C components were suddenly available tomorrow, it would still be too late to use them, right?
I wouldn't mind installing a Type C by hand if it's possible. But, to be completely honest, I have no idea what that entails... In fact, I don't even know what you meant by a "new set of pads." Do you think there's a chance we could install that ourselves, when it comes out?
Adding support for the connector on the pcb isn't too bad. Most of the work is about making sure there's capability with cases and such. With USB 2.0 it's not an issue, but with 3.0/3.1 there's also electrical things that have to be dealt with as well.
It's a good thing that pexon cables exist: http://pexonpcs.co.uk/collections/usb-cables/products/usb-cables I'm going to buy 3-4 mini/micro cables at one point, haven't decided on the colors yet, I'm guessing their "shrink" stands for a plastic enclosed cable, which lowers the profile, and would probably eliminate case issues like the one posted here (the person having to dremel the cable)
Unless someone wants to hand-solder a Micro or Mini plug to a cable (a lot less fun than it sounds), here's my idea: let's take a factory-made, bonky cable, and shave the plastic off of it, getting as close to the bare metal as possible without damaging the cable itself.
Then take a heat shrink tube, and shrink it over the result, to give the cable a finished look as opposed to the "I let my pet rabbit run free, and left it on the ground" image.