Massdrop x Ferrum Forge Falcon S35VN Folding Knifesearch
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Massdrop x Ferrum Forge Falcon S35VN Folding Knife

Massdrop x Ferrum Forge Falcon S35VN Folding Knife

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Hey everyone, based on the comments I wanted to clarify a few things about these pocket clips…

1) All members who file support tickets due to bending or breakage will be offered the new version as a replacement at no charge. They are not yet available, but we do expect they will arrive sometime in March (WE Knife, and most Chinese factories, are closed for the New Year holiday during much of February.) We've heard that some members got conflicting information from our support team, so if you feel that you should get a replacement under warranty, please do let us know by replying to the same thread, or opening a new ticket and we'll take care of you.

2) Any members who simply prefer the new clip will be offered the discount as previously described, after we have shipped all of the clips needed as replacements.

3) If you would prefer to get a replacement clip sooner, we should have about 125 original style clips available later this month.
Clips are generally recognized by knife manufacturers and consumers as “wear and tear” items. While we stand by our warranty for the Falcon and all knives, you should expect some stipulation in future drops regarding a limited time period for no-cost replacements on pocket clips only. There’s a very good reason that almost every major manufacturer offers them for sale separately, and that a whole niche industry of aftermarket clips exists.

For any questions about clip replacements, please submit a support request through your original transaction record, located in your member profile. Thanks everyone for letting us know how you feel about this and helping to drive our rapid product development cycle.
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Ty
JonasHeineman
Is the Falcon going to be a permanent offering from massdrop? Or will there be an end, to keep it a limited run?
Just used mine to slice up a nice juicy peach. Washed it up in the sink, now drying off in the toaster oven on warm. then a quick lube. Out of the oven now, cooled down and all oiled up. Flips better than ever.
If anybody is interested in a no-wait opportinity to purchase a falcon wing version of this knife in bronze, i just received mine today and quickly realized it's not for me. Knife is brand new . I took it out of the packaging and played with it for about 20 minutes is all. Didnt cut anything. $135 shipped to the US only and no wait.
HKP7M8
HKP7M8
Sold pending funds...
Do It! Do it now! Great little knife! I even used mine as a chopper the other day to cut some 1/8" wood dowels.
Hello Friends,

I've got one of these on sale from the first run and with the new & improved clip installed. I'm moving out of the country and need to free up gear. Thanks! https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F183268419686
Looking at some of the fantastic custom anodising jobs. Amazing.
Massdrop how about doing the Falcon in another colour, I love my blue Crux.
Blade edge angle? Does anyone know what angle the blade is ground? I want to maintain the same edge angle when sharpening. Thanks
Bacchus
I'd bet the edge is put on by hand on a grinding belt. While the goal is to be even and consistent, every edge will be somewhat variable. If you have the capability to hit a specific angle, you will be best served by setting the edge yourself when received. This is what I do to probably half of my new knives if not both even and sharp out of the box.
My first attempt at a home ano job, not nearly as clean as some of you talented motherfuckers, but I thought it looked kinda cool.
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I’ll be honest, this wasn’t a one-and-done type of thing, I did strip and re-ano this several times to get the color I wanted. Whink rust remover makes it easy to redo. That purple is hard to hit, it goes from pink into blue in a blink, hence the stone wash and re- ano, makes kind of a mixture of blue and pink that looks purple. Also, in regards to that color chart, I’d be willing to bet it’s pretty accurate if you‘re using a constant voltage (i.e. a DC power supply) which I believe is what Bflying uses. I’m pretty sure the 9V batteries take a dip in voltage as soon as you put a load on them.
kennedyzero
Yes, batteries tend to vary somewhat. Also the size of the part, size and type of cathode, and amount of electrolyte will also affect it. Plus the fact that without some type current limiter, you are confined to 9 volt increments. That's one of the reasons I opted to drop a buck forty for a power supply. I have seen online where people have built little RadioShack type adjustable resistor boards to put in-line with the batteries. . That way they can pull 1-8 volts out and effectively give a current with around one volt increments. But that seemed like too much work for me, when you can pick up a power supply for less than the price of most titanium knives that I would be playing with.

Most of the purple I've done recently was in the 15-18 volt range. And around 19-20 volts lands a nice "blurple". With my machine, 21 volts yields a deep blue that turns a bit purple-ly with body oils from handling.

Another cool effect to try is a two-tone stonewash or scratch pattern. Give the part a nice solid color like purple or blue. Then give it a light stonewash, or scratch up the edges with a little sandpaper or Scotchbrite. And redip in a lower voltage like 9-12 volts for a bronze color on the newly exposed titanium. Very similar to what @kennedyzero did with the blue-pink-purple, but with contrasting colors.

And like kennedyzero said, Whink Rust Remover will eat through anodizing in seconds, and let you fix what you don't like, or just start over for a new look each week. But be careful what you dip, and for how long. The stuff literally eats titanium and steel. If you dip a lock side with a ceramic detent ball, I've not seen many issues. But if you dip, say a ZT with a non-removable steel ball, the ball can be damaged beyond repair very quickly. So I usually paint the steel balls with fingernail polish, or even rubber cement if I have the time to let it dry. The rubber cement rubs off easily when finished, but gives it some protection in the Whink. And if the steel lock bar is not easily removed, coat the contact edge also. While doing things like anodizing for cosmetic purposes, you want to make sure none of the working parts are affected. A little extra care goes a long ways to make sure the tight tolerances are maintained.

JonasHeineman Is that normal that my pivot unscrews ever so slightly that there is very slight blade play every 15ish flicks of the knife? I really like to play with it, open and close it, but it really is annoying that even I am putting generous amounts of loctite it just doesn't hold it.
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Doh! Sorry, I missed that. That's odd. Never seen simple flipping break through locktite. Are you putting it on the threads at the end of the screw, or just under the head?
Bflying
In fact, I tried both, and have 0 idea why it happens.
Are they gonna make the blue one again?
I got too late to the drop
I love this knife !!!
But I have one too many grey titanium knives.
Otherwise I’ll buy it in a second
Steak Proof. Wiped on my pants and a cocktail napkin. The Steak was delicious. More evidence that a very light coat of oil and a wipe down after use is all it takes.