Sennheiser PC37X randomly goes bad after disconnecting the cable ?
Greetings, Yesterday I was using my headset like normal with my macbook, just listening to music and on a call with people like usual, and the headset was perfectly fine. The stock wire that came with the headset is extremely long and yesterday it annoyed me very much that it kept getting tangled with itself, so I decided to see if the cable is replaceable. I pulled out the cable from the headset and saw the adapter, and looked online for a replacement. Upon plugging it back in, the audio sounded extremely muffled and washed out. Im not sure what I did wrong to make it mess up like that as I've always taken good care of it, ive had it for about 2 years and its always just been chilling on my desk, but anywho I thought the cable just went bad and ordered a replacement. The replacement came, and the issue is still persistant, so I am not sure what the issue is I've tried multiple different headsets and the issue is not with the port, and I also tried it with my windows laptop and...
Apr 23, 2024
1. Vibration control. Vibrations from the environment and the turntable's own operation. This is the largest factor, and what separates the mass consumer junk like this and a real turntable. 2. Speed control. WOW and Flutter should be as low as possible, the lower the better. 3. Tonearm. A real tonearm has an advanced pivot design, serious resonance control measures, a counterweight and anti-skate system. 4. Platter. Makes a large difference. Delrin and acrylic are best, aluminum is okay, MDF, cheap plastic, etc, is junk. The more massive and finely machined the better.
The cartridge is also critical, but that is something you can mix and match with. Obviously, if the tonearm doesn't have an adjustable counterweight and anti-skate it's trash because you can't put in a good cartridge. The sound quality range from the low end to the high end of turntables is enormous. The GOOD NEWS is that after a certain point the turntable itself becomes less important and the cartridge takes over as most important. For example, if it has a big beefy tonearm, nice acrylic platter, decoupled belt drive, and a heavy plinth, you are probably as far as you need to take the turntable and you can concentrate on upgrading just the cartridge.
The best budget player is probably an old used player from the 70's or 80's that has been fully restored and tuned by a professional with the tools. I use an old MCS player which were re-branded Technics units sold at JC Penney back in the heyday of vinyl. It was picked up at a Goodwill for under $30, and I restored it myself, and probably have under $150 in it total. If I bought something like that brand new, it would probably be > $1500. I took a look on eBay and you can get an MCS 6601 for slightly more than the price of this drop, fully restored.
If you can find an AT-LP120 for cheap, that might be the way to go. They're upgradable over time, and they look like the Technics SL1200 which is a plus :) You can change the stylus out to a Grado Black (my personal recommendation), rip out the preamp once you purchase an external RIAA preamp (I built mine from a kit for under $50), and you can also do things like damped the platter, change the slipmat, add more weight to the base, etc. They won't damage records in their stock state unless they're horribly setup. There's a video by a youtube channel called HiViNyws titled 'Detailed turntable set-up for beginners - advanced'. Watch that, set it up properly, and upgrade when you're able to.
Getting a good quality restored vintage turntable from the 80s is also valid.
If we're talking about new systems, $400-600 will get you through the door into "okay" sound. Around $1500 it's better than a CD player. Around $3500-4000 you get clearly superior to even hi-rez digital audio. After $10k it's the finest sound in the realm of audio (except perhaps 15ips reel-to-reel master copies).
I cannot see how it is possible for a record to out-perform digital. I can see how the effect sounds pleasant, but records are simply lower fidelity. I mean, the original used to make the record is digital (albeit a fancy master digital). What am I missing? Thanks again.
I am curious, if one had the actual master (mostly digital since the late 1970's), what would the difference be bewteen that and that file pressed into a record?